Ok, I am in my third day on the SLAM. Here are my numbers and am I still ok?
FC 39
CC .5
Calcium 1300
CYA 90
PH 8.2
FC 39
CC .5
Calcium 1300
CYA 90
PH 8.2
In the process of a slam
- Thread starter Imracerx
- Start date
your pH test reult is false. WIth FC above 10, the high chlorine causes false pH test result. No need to test for it.
If your CYA is 90, then, then the FC level is correct for that.
I know you're in CA and a partial drain and refill is not the most socially favorable thing to do, so really all I can say about your CH and high CYA, is that it is what it is.
If you haven't done so, search the foum for threads on managing high CH. Once the SLAM is done, you will need to manage that as best you can.
The search box is top right of the page under the Pool School button.
If your CYA is 90, then, then the FC level is correct for that.
I know you're in CA and a partial drain and refill is not the most socially favorable thing to do, so really all I can say about your CH and high CYA, is that it is what it is.
If you haven't done so, search the foum for threads on managing high CH. Once the SLAM is done, you will need to manage that as best you can.
The search box is top right of the page under the Pool School button.
How much do I need to drain? Since I am on a well I won't get a fine from the water company.
If you do not use a saltwater generator for chlorination, then your CYA should be 30-50, so you would need to drain either 1/2-2/3 of the water and refill to get your CYA into recommended range.
Here are the TFP recommended levels
Pool School - Recommended Levels
Depending on what the calcium content of your well water is, may help with the CH.
Hopefully, the well water isnt too terribly high in CH, and the drain/refill will help tremendously with that
Here are the TFP recommended levels
Pool School - Recommended Levels
Depending on what the calcium content of your well water is, may help with the CH.
Hopefully, the well water isnt too terribly high in CH, and the drain/refill will help tremendously with that
I going do the OCLT tonight and it started to rain. Will this cause a problem on numbers tomorrow morning?
Thanks for the help!
Thanks for the help!
So it rained all night and I hope it didn't effect the numbers for the OCLT.
I was holding at 39 FC and this morning I was at 35 FC, CC is 0, Calcium 1325, CYA 90, water is crystal clear.
Do I add more beach to bring it back up to 39 and do another OCLT?
Thanks,
I was holding at 39 FC and this morning I was at 35 FC, CC is 0, Calcium 1325, CYA 90, water is crystal clear.
Do I add more beach to bring it back up to 39 and do another OCLT?
Thanks,
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,789
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
You lost more than 1ppm of FC overnight, so you didn't pass the SLAM. Yes, it would be best to add bleach one more day and maintain the FC at your SLAM level of "35" based on a CYA of 90. Assuming your are sure about that CYA of 90, then make sure your FC is at 35 tonight when you try the next OCLT. You might have better success holding that FC at 35 based on that CYA. Good luck!
So I finally past the OCLT on the sixth day!
FC level last night 34.5
Numbers this morning:
FC 34.5
CC .5
Calcium 1375
CYA 90
Now what do I need to do? Do I need to add a conditioner once the FC level is at 7 to stop the chlorine from being removed from the sunlight?
Much help is appreciated.
Thank you for all of the help!
FC level last night 34.5
Numbers this morning:
FC 34.5
CC .5
Calcium 1375
CYA 90
Now what do I need to do? Do I need to add a conditioner once the FC level is at 7 to stop the chlorine from being removed from the sunlight?
Much help is appreciated.
Thank you for all of the help!
NOOOOO. CYA is conditioner/stabilizer. You already have too much in your pool at 90. If you have passed your SLAM (meaning your water is clear also, right?) you just stop adding any chlorine in any form and let the FC level drift down "naturally". Just test once a day until it is back in the target range for your CYA of 90. Then, the TFP method is to add liquid chlorine once a day to keep your FC in your target range. Using liquid chlorine will not raise that CYA level any more.
If you want to do a water exchange to get the CYA down, you can do that, but if your water is clear and the FC holding overnight, you don't really NEED to. The daily dose of chlorine needed each day is the same whether you're at 90 or 40, so it won't save you any money. Having a lower target FC level will save you on testing chemicals though, as even at the 10 mL test it takes a lot of drops to test your FC.
edit: 7 is the minimum FC for a CYA of 90. You should start the day at 10 so it has room to drop through the day. Then test at night and bring back up (using poolmath to calculate the dosage required). After a week or so you'll get an idea how much FC you lose each day. Maybe you only need to be at 9 to start the day in the winter, as the FC burns off much slower. You'll have to know your pool.
If you want to do a water exchange to get the CYA down, you can do that, but if your water is clear and the FC holding overnight, you don't really NEED to. The daily dose of chlorine needed each day is the same whether you're at 90 or 40, so it won't save you any money. Having a lower target FC level will save you on testing chemicals though, as even at the 10 mL test it takes a lot of drops to test your FC.
edit: 7 is the minimum FC for a CYA of 90. You should start the day at 10 so it has room to drop through the day. Then test at night and bring back up (using poolmath to calculate the dosage required). After a week or so you'll get an idea how much FC you lose each day. Maybe you only need to be at 9 to start the day in the winter, as the FC burns off much slower. You'll have to know your pool.
Yes, the water is crystal clear!
When do I start using the chlorinator that floats in the pool?
When do I start using the chlorinator that floats in the pool?
Never again. Well, maybe for vacations.
So now that your water is clear you need to read:
ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry
And this will be helpful: Basic Pool Care Schedule
So now that your water is clear you need to read:
ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry
And this will be helpful: Basic Pool Care Schedule
Yup. That floater has pucks which have CYA in them. Please don't use anything besides liquid chlorine/bleach for your chlorine needs.
First question: When testing the "Total Alkalinity". When you add the R7 and then R8 it turn green, then you add R9 until it turns red. Since I have a high chlorine level (31) it shifts to yellow. Do I continue to add R9 drops until I get red?
Second question: When testing "Calcium Hardness". You add the R10 then R11 and it turns red. Then you add R12 until it turns blue. Do you stop adding the R12 when it turn to violet or all the way to blue?
Third question: How long should I run my pump?
Thanks for the help!
Second question: When testing "Calcium Hardness". You add the R10 then R11 and it turns red. Then you add R12 until it turns blue. Do you stop adding the R12 when it turn to violet or all the way to blue?
Third question: How long should I run my pump?
Thanks for the help!
As with all drops based tests, you continue to add drops until there is NO FURTHER color change.......that ends the test and you subtract one drop since the last one you added made no difference.
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