Recommend a test strip for quick testing between regular testings?

[dollerprod1]

Are test strips ok for quick testing daily for FC/PH, and then testing maybe twice a week with tf-100/k-2006 for CH, TA, and more accurate FC result? Can you recommend a good one?

Also how often should CYA test be done?

 

[Texas Splash]

Knowing what I know now from TFP, I'll never touch another test strip. Simply too unreliable. In a pinch for FC, some will rely on the handy OTO test for a quick snapshot of FC, then use the FAS-DPD for more accurate results every couple days or more. pH testing is easy with the 5 drops and comparator view, so I'd stick with that. As for how often to test CYA, I do mine at the start of the season then monthly thereafter. I might test more frequently if there was a heavy turnover of water or something usual in my FC consumption. You can see the TFP breakdown here at Pool School - Basic Pool Care Schedule.

Hope that helps.

 

[dollerprod1]

Good info, thanks!

 

[Divin Dave]

test strips are notoroiusly wrong.
If you were to get a TF100 kit, it includes a OTO chlorine test which is what we recommend to use on a regular basis when you know you dont need to use the FAS-DPD chlorine test.

 

[JoyfulNoise]

CYA does not need to be measured regularly unless you experience significant water exchanges. I test my CYA only once per month in the swim season. During the off season, I test it maybe once.

As for routine quick testing, either use the OTO drops in the TF-100 or, as I did, purchase a K-1002 test kit that uses the R-0001 & R-0002 DPD reagents for FC testing. I prefer the pink color of the DPD and it truly measures FC unlike the OTO drops which measures TC. If you want to measure CCs with the K-1002, you simply add 5 drops of the R-0003 reagent from your TF-100 and then the test color reads TC. In my opinion, the K-1002 is superior to the OTO for quick routine testing.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[chiefwej]

The TF-100 kit includes the Taylor k1000 Basic Test Kit which is perfect for your daily quick test. Open your little blue box, quick dip in the pool to fill the test block, five drops each side, and your done, a lot more accurate than any strip and takes no more time.

I do the k1000 (TC and pH) daily.
Weekly, I add FAS-DP (which gives me FC,CC and TC) and the TA test
I only do CH and CYA tests about once a month, since those values change very slowly.

 

[Wildcat]

I only test twice a week or so now, especially heading into cooler weather. Once I learned my pool I know about how much CL it loses per day. If my normal min-max is 4-8 PPM I bring it to around 10 and then it drifts down over a few days to 5-6, margin for error. Same for PH and TA. Keep my TA low which has helped with CSI (high CH water) and stabilized the PH rise also (as recommended in some threads).

Am I missing something? Is there a reason for almost daily testing?

 

[chiefwej]

Kl

I only test twice a week or so now, especially heading into cooler weather. Once I learned my pool I know about how much CL it loses per day. If my normal min-max is 4-8 PPM I bring it to around 10 and then it drifts down over a few days to 5-6, margin for error. Same for PH and TA. Keep my TA low which has helped with CSI (high CH water) and stabilized the PH rise also (as recommended in some threads).

Am I missing something? Is there a reason for almost daily testing?

Daily testing during the season, but as the temp of the water drops you can begin to test less often.

With the high evaporation rate combined with high CH and TA in Tucson water, keeping a low TA (and balanced CSI) can become difficult. I would use acid and aeration to lower it but with the evaporation, the fill water with high TA would bring it back up. So in order to further stabilize my constant rising pH (due to the SWG) I've added borates. It does help.

 

[Wildcat]

Kl

Daily testing during the season, but as the temp of the water drops you can begin to test less often.

With the high evaporation rate combined with high CH and TA in Tucson water, keeping a low TA (and balanced CSI) can become difficult. I would use acid and aeration to lower it but with the evaporation, the fill water with high TA would bring it back up. So in order to further stabilize my constant rising pH (due to the SWG) I've added borates. It does help.

Tested my Oro Valley water once, I think CH was around 120. Never measure TA nor re-measured CH as I figure there is not much I can do about it other than take advantage of the better rainfall this autumn,
Don't have a SWG so I could see why with one you might need to measure more often. I also have become comfortable with numbers in a range rather than spot on all the time. TA 50-70, PH 7.2-7.8 always wary of the CSI balance between the two. MY TA does not tend to drift upwards, more likely my PH drifts up and I have to add baking soda when I bring the PH down or it lowers TA too low.
FC or 5-11 PPM.

 

[chiefwej]

Too low TA has never been my problem, I struggle to keep it below 100. Interesting that we have such different issues. I'm on Marana's water system, so maybe the levels are that different. Better stop this before we are cited for threadjuacking.