My first TF-100 test results

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tstex

Silver Supporter
Aug 28, 2012
2,177
Houston, TX
Hello to all,

Here are my first test results doing them all

FC = 7.75
CC = 1.0
TC - 8.75
CH= 425
TA = 80
CYA = 60

CL = 5
pH = 7.8

I just changed from pucks to liq bleach...so I can understand why CYA is on the higher side and not ideally btw 30-50

The CH seems really high...we use city of Houston water

water temp = 70 degrees

Fire away on what you think I need to do.

Regards,
tstex
 
tstex,
Im with JamesW on that FC.

Your CC is too high. Recommend to do a OCLT and report back.

Everything else not too bad.
The CH is higher than recommended, but manageable.
Wont be long and you'll need to lower the pH, so keep an eye on it.

As a note,
if you do the FC test with the powder, then no need to do the CL test (the one that comes in the kit with the pH). Its good practice though.
 
Thanks guys. Here's your answers.

When I did the first FC test, I got 15 drops [x 0.5] = 7.5...then I tossed out the sol'n...then I read the next part to get CC and it said, now, take the prior solution...etc. So I did it again and got 16 drops or 8, then added 7.5 + 8.0 / 2 = 15.5 / 2 = 7.75

And yes, I thought doing the first FC test was enough, but since I had to do the pH, Tossed in 5 yellow drops just to test it...prob just use this one as a quick test for CL & pH reading.

Here's a question. When the directions states "what until the solution turns red?" Is any shade of red adequate, ie, hot-pink, or do I keep the drops coming until it's a heavier shade of "the red" spectrum? I am clear on "Keep adding the drops until the solution is clear"...only one form of clear, but when it comes to other color precipitating out of soln. ie red, blue, I'm trying to get a sense of how intense of a color or anything near it?

Note: I took pool water from 1 ft from top and did so when the pump had been off for about 1 - 1.5 hrs.

Can you pls direct me to the OCLT? Thanks and pls let me know if anyone had additional questions or needs further clarification?

Note2: I found out what OCLT means. I believe there are small amts of algae on the parts of the pool that are deeper and do not face the sun. However, I will do the two FAS-DPD tests...I'll do one now [9:55PM CST] and the other one @ 6:15AM CST, then post back, ok.

Regards,
tstex
 
ahhhh... Ok on the FC test. Good enough.

About the solution turning red. That could have been worded better.
What you want to do is add drops until there is No More Change.

When you add that last drop, and there is no change in color, or shade of color, then dont count the last drop.

(I hope that makes sense).
 
Divin Dave said:
ahhhh... Ok on the FC test. Good enough.

About the solution turning red. That could have been worded better.
What you want to do is add drops until there is No More Change.

When you add that last drop, and there is no change in color, or shade of color, then dont count the last drop.

(I hope that makes sense).
Click to expand...

Ok, thanks Dave. That is kind of getting a little subjective, and based on lighting, ability to discriminate slight color changes, etc. can get kind of dicey..I believe this is where the std deviation of 0.5ppm comes into play...

Also, is the FAS-DPD the first test get the FC & CC? I also noted from a query that by not doing the test quickly, you could get false readings.,,I think I might have done so...I'll move quicker this time
 
First FC test

FC = 7.5
CC = 0
TC = 7.5

my second test this morning yielded the following:

FC = 6.5
CC= 0
TC = 6.5

Note, on the second test, it has rained somewhere btw 1.5" & 2.0" overnight. However, as noted somewhere I read, I consistently took water from about 1-1.5' down from the top on all tests I have performed.

Pls let me know what the TFP Team recommends on these 2 tests...and, the algae I have noted is very sparse on sides that get no sun - none of the water is discolored, at least to the naked eye.

Thank you very much,
tstex
 
In order to conduct a proper SLAM, what data do I need to use for determining the type of SLAM I need to perform, what materials, how much and how long, then what are my target readings?

Thank you very much,
tstex
 

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JamesW said:
Pool School - SLAM - Shock Level And Maintain
Click to expand...

Ok, I read the SLAM protocol...if I am at approx. 60CYA [no SWG], then I need a SLAM FC of 24. However, after reading all the lit, here are a couple of things I wanted to add:

-My water is crystal clear right now
-There is no algae in the water [to the naked eye] that is causing the water to be discolored
-I just bought a new [Gorilla] Brush and I am going to brush the pool to determine possibly latent plaster dust from the no-drain acid wash performed in July-Aug; pool was plastered/pebbled sheened in late Jan 2015, so curing could still be in process
-My FAS-DPD test did not have a huge delta, and I think when doing my orig FC/CC test I could have gone too slow thus yielding semi-inaccurate tests....the second tests [the FAS-DPD] were done to protocol and my CC was 0.5

To conclude, I just want to make sure a SLAM is needed and I did not make an erroneously or inaccurate visual conclusion. Therefore, are there any specific tests at this point that I can do to determine if SLAM is needed or not? If this is another FAS-DPD test, I can do so tonight, or anything else? In the meantime, I am going to buy 1-2 gallons of M-Acid and two 4 gal cases of Clorox/bleach for either a Slam and/or normal maintenance.

As always, thank you very much for your feedback,
tstex
 
If you have visible algae, then you should Slam. If you're not sure, go to an fc of about 9 to 12 for a few days and do an overnight chlorine loss test. Brush the pool each day.
 
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