Not sure if this is the correct spot, please move if need be. Im sure there's not such a thing as a pool inspector, but im needing a knowledgeable hand. We just had a pool built with a rock water fall, bubblers, spa etc. It appears that all the pool including the water features are tied to one pump. Our bubblers barely roll water, they are in 7" of water. I have a few other issues as well. The pool builder is trying to say thats how it is suppose to be. And its not. I shouldn't have to turn off all returns to get the bubblers to run correctly. I dont know who to contact that could give me an un-biased opinion. Im located South of Houston.
Pool inspector?
- Thread starter itried
- Start date
Actually, just ask here. Which you did. I'm sure there will be folks along soon to give you feedback.
pinguy
0
Others here will be able to provide more insight than me as to how to remedy the situation with your PB, but you are correct in that water features should be run off a second pump.
Have you made all the payments?
Have you made all the payments?
i built a home and a pool as well, so i have not closed yet.. I will not close until these issues are fixed. He had a pool guy come do a "start up" which i wasnt there. I'm still waiting on him to show me the automation features as well, easy touch with pentair equipment, 2hp whisper flow, air blower and a 520 filter i guess thats a cartridge?. I need to fill out my sig. so yall know what i have. Heck no telling what i really have that's why i was looking for someone around the area, i sure hope its plumbed correctly. I have a feeling about this deal.
- May 23, 2015
- 24,381
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Can you please provide specifics about your pool's equipment pad. Adding a photo would help too. Knowing what pool equipment you have will go a long way in helping us to help you identify potential problems.
If you have any financial incentives (last payment) with your PB, hold onto it. If not, then all you have are his good favor and, potentially, warranty claims which are very specific and limited.
If you have any financial incentives (last payment) with your PB, hold onto it. If not, then all you have are his good favor and, potentially, warranty claims which are very specific and limited.
i guess i will be posting my numbers on a seperate thread later on today. He just informed me that i was in charge of my water since last week... Geez at least i have a tftest kit..
No need for separate thread. You got some folks already watching this one so you might as well keep it going...
- May 23, 2015
- 24,381
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Yes, please keep everything in one thread or else it will be too confusing....
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right now water testing is most critical as it sounds like the pool water hasn't been touched in a week....
:calm:
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right now water testing is most critical as it sounds like the pool water hasn't been touched in a week....
:calm:
this pic was taken in pano view, not sure it will work? Some of the lines are labeled i understand those but. Another issue i think i have is how do you heat just the spa? From the messing around with it, no matter what i do the pool returns are always on, or i can stop the pool returns then i have the spa spilling over. Im hoping im doing something wrong but fearing the worse.
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they insisted on the puck chlorinator, i did have them run me a bypass that added a few 90's which im sure slowed down the pressure as well.
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Yes, please keep everything in one thread or else it will be too confusing....
- - - Updated - - -
right now water testing is most critical as it sounds like the pool water hasn't been touched in a week....
im trying to stay calm lol, but 6 cant come fast enough!
- May 23, 2015
- 24,381
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
The pano shot is great but it looks like some of the pipes are routed behind the equipment as well as in front. You may need to take a series of pictures and try to label the pipes as best as you can figure. I'm seeing the WhisperFlo and what looks like a booster pump (pressure side cleaner??) and the blower. I'm also seeing a trichlor puck chlorinator which we do not recommend long-term use of pucks (raises the CYA too much). Yes, the Pentair C&C 520 is a cartridge filter. You also have a MasterTemp (assuming Natural Gas) heater...maybe 400kBTU/hr model?? I see the Automation panel hanging on the wall. If you can open that and take a shot of the inside of it, that will help. Do you have remote control, like and EasyTouch remote?
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A picture of the pool would be nice too....
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A picture of the pool would be nice too....
The good thing is you can just remove the pucks and not have to worry about it any more. Some folks have integrated units that require fancy footwork to disable.
yes its a 400k im on propane. I do have an easy touch remote and i think theres 2 actuated valves. The other day i hit the spa button on the remote and it started draining the spa into the pool.. So i put the system in service mode and turned on the filter and it started filling back up. It makes me so mad that im having to try and figure out all this stuff my trial and error. I'm not sure, maybe thats what the spa button is suppose to do? i would think not tho.
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from yesterday, it was raining out. The spot you see on the floor on the right is a turtle not build up. I can get a better pick of stuff this evening. Thanks for all the replys
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and my center drains and returns have black covers. You can see that as well in the center of the pool.
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from yesterday, it was raining out. The spot you see on the floor on the right is a turtle not build up. I can get a better pick of stuff this evening. Thanks for all the replys
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and my center drains and returns have black covers. You can see that as well in the center of the pool.
The way ours is setup is when the spa button is pushed it changes the auto valve that isolates all filtering to the spa only. The returns on the pool turn off at this point. The spa water spill over stops and the main drains in the spa start to work. You can only heat our spa in this mode.
- May 23, 2015
- 24,381
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Nice Pool!!
So what happened when you hit the SPA button is that the actuator controlling the suction side valve to the WhisperFlo turned to the spa drains BUT the other actuator for the returns stayed on the pool. There should be two actuators - one on the suction side of the pump to control where the water gets sucked from and one on the return lines to determine where the return water flows to. In your case, the return actuator did not work. Check the switches on the actuator. There's usually a three-pole toggle switch on the valve actuator that is - ON #1, OFF, ON #2. If the switch is dead center, then the valve is effectively on the "OFF" position and will not actuate. "ON #1" and "ON #2" determine which direction the valves point to when the system is either in POOL mode or SPA mode. Check it out and see what you find.
So what happened when you hit the SPA button is that the actuator controlling the suction side valve to the WhisperFlo turned to the spa drains BUT the other actuator for the returns stayed on the pool. There should be two actuators - one on the suction side of the pump to control where the water gets sucked from and one on the return lines to determine where the return water flows to. In your case, the return actuator did not work. Check the switches on the actuator. There's usually a three-pole toggle switch on the valve actuator that is - ON #1, OFF, ON #2. If the switch is dead center, then the valve is effectively on the "OFF" position and will not actuate. "ON #1" and "ON #2" determine which direction the valves point to when the system is either in POOL mode or SPA mode. Check it out and see what you find.
Thanks, ill be able to enjoy it soon i hope lol. I will check the actuator when i get home and report back with better pics as well.
I am of not help BUT will be coming along for the ride in hopes I can learn something from you!
Kim
Kim
Sorry ill have to post the other pics at work tomorrow, having a time resizing on personal computer..
Test results are as follows
FC 1
CH 84
CYA 0 still could barely see the dot in bottom of vial
PH 7.8 + I have a pic but need to size it in order to post it.
I Posted the other day with a pic and someone estimated the pool and spa to be around 13k gallons.
Pool was filled and chemicals added on 10-16-15 I have no clue what was added other than some pucks.
Any help appreciated.
Pool is clear, 72F, not cloudy at all.
Test results are as follows
FC 1
CH 84
CYA 0 still could barely see the dot in bottom of vial
PH 7.8 + I have a pic but need to size it in order to post it.
I Posted the other day with a pic and someone estimated the pool and spa to be around 13k gallons.
Pool was filled and chemicals added on 10-16-15 I have no clue what was added other than some pucks.
Any help appreciated.
Pool is clear, 72F, not cloudy at all.
pinguy
0
Awesome! Testing is going to be the key to keeping your new pool trouble free
A couple things:
1) Update your signature with all your pool info, we need this to be able to help you with your chemistry. Make sure to include the type of finish and equipment you have, we can't tell everything from the pictures.
2) Read up on some pool school articles. These are a good start:
Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry
Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals
Pool School - How to Chlorinate Your Pool
Pool School - Recommended Levels
3) If your pool is fiberglass or plaster, you need to get some calcium (CH) in there stat. Make sure you use Pool Math to calculate the correct amount: http://www.troublefreepool.com/calc.html
4) You need to get some CYA in your water. This is why your FC level is so low. CYA (or stabilizer) protects chlorine from the sun, without it your FC will drop to nothing in under an hour of sun exposure. Again use Pool Math to calculate the amount to add, because too much is a bad thing.
5) After you add CYA, you need to get the FC level up. If you do not have a salt water pool, you need to manually dose with liquid bleach as opposed to the tri-chlor pucks to avoid high CYA and huge headaches down the road.
6) Your PH is also high, lower it using Muriatic Acid.
added some chlorine now, about to put some cya in a sock. Does the pump need to stay on while adding the cya? Can I put this in a sock and set in skimmer?