Copper sulphate based Algacide -

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farsonic

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Jul 5, 2014
48
Queensland, Australia
The use of Copper Sulphate based Algaecides seems to be fairly common in Australia, however it is also expensive to purchase. I'm thinking this must be a fairly basic combination of Copper Sulphate and potentially Citric acid to chelate the copper.

Does anyone have any knowledge of what the formula would be for this? I'm hating paying retail pricing for what is a simple chemical.

FP
 
TFP does not recommend the use of any metal-based algaecides. They are quite common here in the US too but just because you can buy them does not mean you should use them. Cu ion concentrations above 1.5ppm in pool water increases risks for Cu scaling and staining especially in plaster pools. Metal based algaecides are also bad for salt water chlorine generators. There are other algaecides that are just as good as Cu-based products (borates and Polyquat-60) but algaecides are unnecessary if a pool has a properly maintained FC/CYA ratio.

You can certainly try to mix up your own "potion" but be careful with citric acid as it will lower your pool's FC with one potential by-product being chloroform production.


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Happy to take advise from this group as there is a lot more knowledge.

My main issue is dealing with Black algae in the pool. I have a pebble-crete pool and am brushing this to remove the membrane from the algae but this is proving difficult with this type of surface.

Any guidance appreciated.

F
 
Hi Farsonic,

I'm sorry to hear your dealing with black algae, but not to worry because we can help. :)

Unfortunately, algaecide won't kill black algae, you'll need to do a Slam http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/125-slam-shock-level-and-maintain-shockingl kill it out.

The copper in the algaecide as previous explained is also not recommended because it can cause you additional issues.

If you don't mind, there are a few questions you can answer, and things you can do to help us be able to help you better.

1) How are you testing your pool levels?

2) How does your pool look? Pictures of your pool, and equipment etc. are really helpful, and often can help us locate additional algae hiding spaces, plus we also really love looking at pictures around here too. :).

3) Also please add your Pool and Equipment information to your Signature by selecting Settings at the top right of your screen, then Edit Signature on the next page under the Bold MY Settings tab. Here's a link that tells the type of info to include in your signature. http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/115-read-before-you-post

Here's a few links for you to review when you get a chance:
http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/180-Black-Algae
http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/123-abc-of-pool-water-chemistry
http://www.troublefreepool.com/calc.html
http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/128-chlorine-cya-chart-slam-shock

I know it probably seems like a lot of info, but not to worry though because we will be with you every step of the way to help you get that black algae killed out of there.

Feel free to ask any questions you may have a long the way because we are here for you. :)
 
Currently using Aquacheck7 test strips for majority of testing
I also cross check Ph levels using a calibrated digital Ph meter (that I also use for the home brew water and the fish tank)

Will upload some pictures of the pool shortly. However I suspect the main problem really is poor circulation, especially after moving to a Hurlcon Viron P600 (I think) pump. While the pump is low on energy costs it has a trade off of having **** throughput/flow capacity. Might need to reconsider this decision.

Pool cleaner is a Aquabot Breeze 4WD, which works really well .... works better after untangling the cords. I would have thought using this robot would have aided int water re-circulation.

Pool is salt water and uses a chlorine generator

Filter is sand based

I'll update my signature to include this
 
Farsonic,

I have the P600's baby brother the p320 in my 40k Litre pool, I did some calculations that 800rpm would theoretically have been more than enough to keep my pool clean, however 800 rpm isn't enough to keep the SWG cell full and not trip out with a low flow error. The P600 should be more than enough, you can try and move your return eyeballs if you think you have dead spots.

The answer I suspect will be the same as always, you don't have enough FC for your CYA level, you'll need an accurate set of results which you wont get from the strips or the store.
I'm not sure how much of what is taught in the pool school here you know but the FC/CYA page is a good place to start.

Simon
 

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I found something from NQ-100 Complete Test Kit - NQ Pool Test Kits which seems to be like the TF100 the folks like here, they were low on stock though the other day.
Without knowing your cya you can't really be on top of your FC, now you have algae its more important than ever to have good numbers to fix it.
Ive stuck my head over the parapet here a couple of times so am hesitant, being in Aus we don't have cheap easy access to the good test kits, I have a ColorIQ which I bought from the US, (they wouldn't ship the TF100) this however won't give you FC over 10ppm, I think the Taylor K2006 is the closest we get here, google will find it.
 
Defgufman said:
Amazon.com sells the Taylor K-2600
Click to expand...

Defgufman said:
The Taylor K2600 is perfectly fine
Click to expand...
I'm sure it's just a typo, but there is no Taylor K2600.

The Taylor kit that is recommended is the K-2006. However, I recommend you go with the K-2006C as the smaller reagent bottles in the K-2006 will be used up very quickly, especially if you are SLAMming the pool.

See the article in Pool School, Test Kits Compared for more info.

Dom
 
domct203 said:
I'm sure it's just a typo, but there is no Taylor K2600.

The Taylor kit that is recommended is the K-2006. However, I recommend you go with the K-2006C as the smaller reagent bottles in the K-2006 will be used up very quickly, especially if you are SLAMming the pool.

See the article in Pool School, Test Kits Compared for more info.

Dom
Click to expand...

Yes that was a typo I meant the 2006
 
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