Switching to SWG

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lwick74

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Feb 10, 2015
29
Pompano Beach Florida
Hi Guys,

I just picked up a Circupool Rj30 classic for my 10,000 gal pool that should be here in a few days. I want to get my pool chemistry ready before it arrives so I'm ready to install. Anyway, I noticed in the pool math calculator that traditional pool ch range it 200-400 while trouble free is 350-450. Do you guys suggest shooting for the trouble free numbers? How come they are so much higher? How early can I add the salt before installing the SWG? I have a Taylor 2006 test kit, can I buy just the regents to test for salt?

Thanks,

Larry

New Numbers

FC 5.5
PH 7.6
TA 70
CH 290
CYA 50
 
First thing you want to do is get a little more CYA in there, for SWGs 70 is the middle. Pool math will tell you how much to add. You'll want to pick up some MA, just in case your pH starts to rise. TFTestkits.net carries a salt test kit you'll probably want to get on it's way.

Pool math will tell you how much salt to put in to achieve the required level for your SWG.
 
You can add salt now. You should wait a minimum of 24hrs after adding salt to turn on the SWG.

Your calcium levels are fine for now. Don't sweat the higher levels. They are designed for plaster pool owners with SWG so that if pH rise becomes an issue they can lower their TA values far enough without having too negative a CSI value.

Now that you have an SWG, you will want to keep a close eye on pH and CSI to ensure that you're staying below 0 for CSI. You should be prepared to do some increased frequency testing in the beginning.

Also, owning a K-1766 is fine for accurate salt levels BUT you MUST satisfy your SWGs internal salinity meter. So if you've added salt and the Taylor test shows it to be perfect but your SWG says its low, you have to add salt to make the SWG happy. Shoot for 100-200ppm lower than the recommended salt level in the manual. Salt will increase naturally over time but, in FL with rains, you might be testing and adding a lot more than I do.

Good luck and ask lots of questions if you need any help.


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If you have a local pool store take a water sample in and have them test it for the salinity level. The pool store should be reasonably accurate for salt and you can go ahead and add enough salt to bring it up to the lower end of the suggested level for your SWG which is 3000 ppm.

You can add the salt today if you get your water tested and know how much more salt to add. Having salt in the pool without a SWG is not a problem and some people do it just for the feel of the water.
 
Thanks everyone for all the advice! I brought my water sample down to the pool store and they came up with 2200PPM of salt in my water already. They told me that attributed to using liquid chlorine. Does that sound right? I added a 40lbs bag and a half bag of salt based on those numbers.

Larry
 
Depends on how long you've been adding liquid chlorine for. LC has both excess lye and salt in it. Strictly using LC alone for an entire year (assuming the pool is open all year), one can easily raise their salt levels by 800-1000ppm/year depending on the size of the pool. PoolMath can give you an estimate of how much salt is added for a given dose of chlorine.


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lwick74 said:
So I installed the circupool RJ30 classic yesterday and ran the pool pump and swg all night. The circupool is displaying low salt but I just tested it and its 3000 ppm? Do I need to just let it run? I set it for 40% for now.
Click to expand...

When did you add the salt? Usually we recommend adding salt and circulating for 24hrs WITHOUT the SWG powered up.

Does the CircuPool give a salinity reading or just a low salt indicator light?


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Good to hear.

Adding salt takes a while for it to mix. I know when I added it I had the suction cleaner running to suck up water from the bottom and I spent a good 45mins brushing to try to get good mixing.

I'd let it ride until your K-1766 shows up. That will give you the most accurate results.

What happens when you hit the salinity button, does the unit take a measurement?


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Salt will ge dissolved and mixed in about half an hour. I never wait much longer than thst to start my SWG.
3000 should be fine, if thats really what you have.
 
I guess I spoke too soon! The SWG switched to Polarity 2 and the "Low Salt" came back. My unit doesn't tell me what its reading for salt. I read in the manual that there may be a difference between polarity 1 and 2 readings. I guess I'll wait a little longer and see what it does.
 
You are probably right at the threshold for low salt. No harm adding a few hundred ppm. Most SWGs will make chlorine up to 4000 ppm or higher. The Pentair doesn't report high salt until 4500 ppm.
 
Now I need a bag too! Which reminds me, as the water temp drops the SWG can report lower salt concentrations. Once it drops into the lower 60s I turn off my SWG and switch to bleach.
 
pooldv said:
Now I need a bag too! Which reminds me, as the water temp drops the SWG can report lower salt concentrations. Once it drops into the lower 60s I turn off my SWG and switch to bleach.
Click to expand...

It's an epidemic! Well, I received my taylor kit today. The pool is showing 4000ppm. I called circupool and they basically said to ignore the red LED light. I guess I'll see what happens with it.
 

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