Closing a clear pool that's gone cloudy

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O

Omar

0
Jul 22, 2014
12
Patchogue ny
Hello guys. We had a great year with our new pool crystal clear water thanks to tfp anytime I did water tests went to calculater it was on the money everytime. So my problem now is I am closing pool myself this year I talked with a pool guy I see on jobs I work on he is closing pools now so he told me his method and says here is winter Algecide for your pool he says add this and shock it run filter and blow out lines etc. I go home add bottle winter Algecide and leave pump running leave come home pool is cloudy. I freaked I'm cursing at myself never had a cloud in pool So I bust ou my tfp test kit do all test ph 8.2 as expected saltwater pool I add acid every month ta -70 Chlorine high as expected I'm closing so started adding But my ch was 1375. How can it be that high is it the Algecide ? And I have a problem with closing it cloudy not my idea of a good closing Any help is appreciated
 
What was your CH the last time you checked it? Unless it is a very small pool and a very large bottle of algecide I don't see that as the source.

High pH with high CH could be calcium clouding, but there are other posibilites

What exact "winter algecide" did you use. name and ingredients would help.

Test Results?

FC
CC
ph 8.2
TA 70
CH 1375

Are you using a Speed Stir or swirling by hand for that CH test?
 
tim5055 said:
What was your CH the last time you checked it? Unless it is a very small pool and a very large bottle of algecide I don't see that as the source.

High pH with high CH could be calcium clouding, but there are other posibilites

What exact "winter algecide" did you use. name and ingredients would help.

Test Results?

FC
CC
ph 8.2
TA 70
CH 1375

Are you using a Speed Stir or swirling by hand for that CH test?
Click to expand...

Thanks for your help. The Algeciras he gave me was nu clo liquid winter algecide-7. I did ad more then required. I was rushing and just went by what pool guy said. I will check my fc / cc when I get home from work tngt. Thanks again.
 
Omar, as you may have just learned, no one takes batter care of your pool than you. Unfortunately from the two links I've captured below for you, they show that No Clo is a "copper" algaecide, so your pool guy just added metals to your water. Depending upon how much, and the size of your pool, you may need to manage that next season. Adding metals is never a good thing. Swim Clean Inc and Nu-clo Copper 7 Algaecide 32 fl oz - SuntekOnline.com

As for the high CH level, I didn't see your reply to Tim about what is was before, but I suppose your CH level could have gone up if the pool guy used a lot of Cal-Hypo to "shock" you pool - something here at TFP we don't do (shock). Some things once added (metals, CH, and high CYA) cannot be lowered unless there is water exchange.

All you can do from here is damage control. Post a full set of numbers this evening and we'll try to advise more from there.

Also, please add your pool info to your signature by going to the top of the TFP web page (just under the Pool School button) and select "SETTINGS". On the next page look to the left for a menu bar that says, “MY SETTINGS” and go to "EDIT SIGNATURE" to enter your pool and equipment info there. It will help us later. Have a nice day.
 
Ok just checked water here is results. Water temp 61.
Fc-17.5
Cc-0.5
Ch-850. It's lower today
Ta-70 Water is clearer than last night. I ran filter for 7 hours. I have de filter but when I purchased de they did not have so I got the pearlite powder they had and it seemed to work fine pool was clean and clear whole summer Could it be the pearlite that's giving high ch reading ? Anyone use this stuff. ? I did list my stuff in profile not sure why it doesn't show.
 
Right now I'm going to say we have some testing issues with your CH test. It can't change from 1300 to 850 unless you do a water exchange. Improper mixing as you do the test causes problems like this sometimes, which is why the Speed Stir helps with accuracy.
 
tim5055 said:
Right now I'm going to say we have some testing issues with your CH test. It can't change from 1300 to 850 unless you do a water exchange. Improper mixing as you do the test causes problems like this sometimes, which is why the Speed Stir helps with accuracy.
Click to expand...
I don't have a speed stir. I checked it twice last night same reading twice today same reading. I mix it pretty good Algecide has to be affecting it I know I shouldn't have listened to the guy and just went with tfp 100%. But on the plus side it's clearer than last night and ch read lower if it's correct. Should I wait a while to see what happens. I'm going to get ph down check everything again tmrw What would you do ?
 
Omar said:
I don't have a speed stir. I checked it twice last night same reading twice today same reading. I mix it pretty good Algecide has to be affecting it I know I shouldn't have listened to the guy and just went with tfp 100%. But on the plus side it's clearer than last night and ch read lower if it's correct. Should I wait a while to see what happens. I'm going to get ph down check everything again tmrw What would you do ?
Click to expand...
It may seem like I'm a shill for the Speed Stir, but we have seen this before. The CH test really needs very constant stirring as you conduct the test. Algecide will not cause differences in the CH test like that.
 
I have to agree with Tim. I love my speed stir. Couldn't imagine not having it. It would be like asking my wife to throw-out her Kitchen aid and mix cake batter with a fork. First, she would laugh and throw the fork at me, then I'd have no cake. :) It makes a world of difference. You're probably just trying to close and move on, but definitely consider it for next year.
 

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I'm def going to get one But I have to do it this way until I order it. I will check again tmrw and swirl it till my hand falls off bc I won't close till I figure this out hopefully before it snows lol. I still have to figure out why my profile doesn't show
 
Sure, no problem. For the signature, have you tried it this way? Go to the top of the TFP web page (just under the Pool School button) and select "SETTINGS". On the next page look to the left for a menu bar that says, “MY SETTINGS” and go to "EDIT SIGNATURE" to enter your pool and equipment info there. It will help us later.
 
Omar said:
I'm def going to get one But I have to do it this way until I order it. I will check again tmrw and swirl it till my hand falls off bc I won't close till I figure this out hopefully before it snows lol. I still have to figure out why my profile doesn't show
Click to expand...
No rush on the close as long as you beat the snow/ice. Actually the later you close with colder water the better. Cold water (below 60) retards algae growth, so close later - open early!
 
Ok here is my end result with the help of my wife. My ch is 200 I am a painter so I was considering the color change in the tube to be purple and my wife also said it was slight purple it changed after 6 drops at 8 it was blue enough for her so I'm going with 200. Pool cloud is faint now I'm putting her to sleep. Never will I ad that algecide again I took apart filter all the de substitute is green Anyone use this perlite stuff. Thanks for your help
 
200 is a much more reasonable number. When conducting these tests, you are looking for the color change to stop. So as you swirl and add drops it might be light purple on drop 15 and slowly gets darker as you add drops. Keep adding drops until a drop causes no more change. Think 18 a little darker, 19 a little darker, 20 a little darker and then 21 no change from #20. You would ignore the no change 21st drop and call it 20.

As to the DE substitute, I use it with my sand filter but that is totally different. Have you been bumping/backwashing based on time or pressure? We recommend cleaning your filter when the pressure rises 20-25% over clean pressure. So, if your clean pressure is 20 clean the filter when it gets to 25.

If you think you like our methods I recommend using the winter to take time reading through Pool School, reading old posts and most of all interact and ask questions. No question is silly or stupid. While we answer the same questions over and over we don't mind doing so if it helps you take control of your pool. Pool ownership should be a pleasure, not something you dread every weekend when you have to go to the pool store to get them to help.
 
yes i only added at beginning of season never had to backwash or anything psi never got high enough my pool was crystal clear using tfp methods i always went to pool calculater when anything was out of whack and followed directions i have salt water generater which makes life so much easier just have to add acid one a month i was adding around 30 oz a month i did use half of recomended borax and plan on getting tester for that everyone that came to swim always raved how clean my pool is and the people that had pools i told them about tfp i do follow the tfp methods just got whacky at the end of season dont know why i just wanted to get it done i guess on long island there is alot of end of season stuff to do sprinkler lines camper pool it adds up i wish i could leave it open year round
 
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