Internal air bleeder assembly - Do I need it?

[durtynacho]

I have a Pentair Sta-Rite PLM150 filter. It has an 'air bleeder assembly' which is internal to the filter housing. This is not the same component that is used to bleed air from the housing when turning the pump on, nor is the pressure gauge screwed into this assembly. The filtered water flows through this device after being filtered, as it goes into the return. The thing is, it clogs very easy due to being so small and results in very low return pressure. I am tempted to just remove it because I have to take the filter housing apart every couple of weeks to clean this thing and I just don't see what good its actually doing. Can somebody enlighten me as to the importance of it? If it is just to filter the return water, I can do without that. I don't mind a little of debris making its way back into the pool.

Here is what the assembly looks like. It connects to a tube, which leads to the underside of the filter and into the return.

 

[Agent99]

I'm sure they didn't go to the trouble of designing it if it wasn't needed. Perhaps you have other issues with your pool where this gets clogged so easily? You might put a call into Pentair/Sta-Rite and see what they say. My filter has this and it doesn't seem to get clogged so much. I honestly don't know what would happen if I just removed it.

 

[durtynacho]

Yeah I emailed Pentair support and asked the question. I live in the country and its pretty dusty around here, so I imagine that is all it is. And we get a lot of leaf debris from the trees which I remove daily but all of that is bound to clog such a tiny, little component.

 

[ewkearns]

I don't know the answer to this question, but I would ask, "What is this tiny little component protecting?"

 

[Agent99]

I'm not in the country although it is dry around here and I do have a very large, old oak tree in my yard and get plenty of tree debris in my pool.

What is interesting is that you see an impact to your filtration pressure as a result of this little thing clogging up. Perhaps some kind of a pre-filter might help you? Are your cartridge filters all in good shape and clean? How often do you hose them down? In other words, is everything else to your knowledge in your filter in good working order? Are all the o-rings in good shape? Might they need replaced and/or lubed? Might they be letting debris by or something?

 

[JamesW]

The purpose is bleed excess air from the top of the inside of the filter. It should not have any effect on the return pressure. It's really not critical. If you remove it, you should plug the hole that is left so that debris can't bypass the filter. If it's a de filter, de will get in the pool. If it's a sand filter, then it's less of a problem unless you have something, like a Polaris or salt cell, that would be adversely affected by debris.

 

[durtynacho]

The purpose is bleed excess air from the top of the inside of the filter. It should not have any effect on the return pressure. It's really not critical. If you remove it, you should plug the hole that is left so that debris can't bypass the filter. If it's a de filter, de will get in the pool. If it's a sand filter, then it's less of a problem unless you have something, like a Polaris or salt cell, that would be adversely affected by debris.

Thank you. The filter is clean and new, as are the seals, and I spray it down every couple weeks when I clean this little bleeder assembly. The filter is never that dirty.

The cartridge filter sits down onto a spring loaded cap type thing, which presses down when the filter is inserted and opens up access to the return tube. The air bleeder assembly sits at the top part of the filter, and it connects to a small opening which leads to this spring loaded entry way into the return, and the tube which leads to the return is solid plastic. This is what leads me to believe that water passes through it after being filtered as it enters the return. Water flows into the pump, then filter, and passes through this assembly prior to re-entering the pool.

 

[gtemkin]

As JamesW pointed out, that little tiny, tiny filter and tubing is meant to pass excess air through the filter to prevent a situation under certain conditions, where large amounts of pressurized air could aggressively vent and damage equipment if allowed to stay trapped in your filter. When the water level inside your filter is above that tiny, tiny filter yes, it will form a tiny, tiny path for water to flow through but by far and away the major bulk of the water flow through your filter will always be through the cartridge filter element itself.

 

[JamesW]

All of the water does not go through the air relief. Only a tiny amount goes through. It's purpose is to get the air out. Once the air is out, a small amount of water goes through the screen and into the return lines.

Overall, it's best to keep the filter as designed. Air should be relieved from the filter.

 

[durtynacho]

Thank you all for the responses. I greatly appreciate it!

 

[MrJohnDoe]

I have a Pentair Sta-Rite PLM150 filter. It has an 'air bleeder assembly' which is internal to the filter housing. This is not the same component that is used to bleed air from the housing when turning the pump on, nor is the pressure gauge screwed into this assembly. The filtered water flows through this device after being filtered, as it goes into the return. The thing is, it clogs very easy due to being so small and results in very low return pressure. I am tempted to just remove it because I have to take the filter housing apart every couple of weeks to clean this thing and I just don't see what good its actually doing. Can somebody enlighten me as to the importance of it? If it is just to filter the return water, I can do without that. I don't mind a little of debris making its way back into the pool.

Here is what the assembly looks like. It connects to a tube, which leads to the underside of the filter and into the return.

View attachment 43227

The purpose of the internal airbleed assembly is quite important. As you bleed your filter, the obviouse result is water fills up the tank, as it does, excess water goes back into the pool. The filter/mesh at the end of the assembly keeps out the D.E., which prevents it from entering the pool when you bleed the filter. If you notice a sand type substance on the floor of your pool, and you do not have a sand filter, there's as 99% chance that your internal airbleed assembly needs replacement. I opened my filter and the mesh is completly gone. Ordered a new one and no more "sand" D.E. at the bottom of my pool. YOu will know if you have D.E. returning to your pool (if you haven't dropped fresh D.E. into your pool's filter suction if you turn on your pump after it has been off for several hours and notice a steady stream of greay clouds coming out of your return line into the pool. This will clear up after about 3-4 minutes and the water will eventually clear back up from the return line. Once the pump is off and the water stops moving around, you will see the D.E. "sand" settling on the bottom. Replace your internal bleed assembly and revaccum. Of course you will see D.E. coming out of the return line if you put too much into the pool at once after you do do a backwash or clean the filter. This is somewhat normal (if you tend to put more then the recommended amount of D.E. in the pool).

 

[Spartacus!]

My filter housing is clearly marked as a PAC-FAB (now under Pentair) NS-24 with 24 sq. feet of filter area. However, when I measure the filter elements, they are clearly the size of the NS-36 which has a filter area of 36 sq. feet. I called Pentair and they said that the NS-36 filter assembly would fit in the NS-24 housing, so a previous owner must have "upgraded" the filter area. A number of years ago I had to replace 2 grids and the upper manifold. The old manifold had no air relief strainer and the new one had a short stubby strainer that got slightly crushed by the somewhat smaller tank housing, but still had plenty of open mesh to continue to function. Well, I just bought an entire new 36 sq. foot filter grid assembly where the measurements matched exactly the sizes of my "old" assembly - EXCEPT for the extended pipe with the strainer at the end (much like durtynacho's picture above but with a smaller, dome shaped mesh strainer). That will surely never fit in the NS-24 tank.

Since the air relief strainer is simply to prevent some debris from exiting the upper manifold when excess air is released into the "open" area with the filtering grids, what's the harm in leaving this piece off and allowing some debris to re-enter the filtration area, only to be captured by the filter elements? Or should I try to cut and splice the long tube to try and shorten it to fit?

Thanks!

 

[OllieMeyer]

So i just found out after cleaning my DE filter out the first time that i am missing the screen at the top of the air bleed assembly. I found a piece of duct tape which i assume was covering the pipe. This explains why DE powder was gong straight into the pool. I found a replacement on amazon. My question is how does a mesh screen stop DE going into the pool?

 

[DONNIE]

Funny....I Googled and found this thread. I've been off the board but have referred many to it as it was by far the biggest help to me 13 years ago. Even today my pool water is the envy of everyone who sees it. I have this same little filter and every summer it clogs about every 10 day from pollen etc and sends my SWG into error mode. Mine is not DE and my filter is rarely dirty. I've decided it serves no purpose on my system and everything runs fine without it so.....I'm leaving it off! Great to see all of you again and THANK YOU again to all who assisted me through the years. No better pool site around, period!!

 

[ctrlz]

I have an upright hayward star 1750 cartridge filter which incorporates a bleed tube.
My take...
I believe this part is non-essential, but worth installing/repairing. Its purpose is to remove air from the top of the filter canister to make sure the entire filter is immersed in water, i.e. the water is passing across the full surface area of the filter. Trapped air could mean only the bottom half of your filter gets action. All the media will be wet when you open it, but that could be due to capillary action in the media. The suction for the tube is created by a venturi at the base of the canister where the tube inserts.
On a cartridge system, the tube top end is open, as there is no risk of DE or sand being drawn back to the pool. With DE or sand, I would want a mesh screen over the end. The hayward instructions are not specific, but I cut my tube so the open end sits 1-1.5" above the top end of the cartridge. A few inches of trapped air above that does not matter. The goal is to have the entire cartridge (or media) immersed when the pump runs.
One more thing. On my filter the tube is simply 3/8 OD x 1/4 ID polyethylene. You only need a few feet. It goes for about $0.39/ft. Don't by the $20 part from hayward. It inserts in the filter base with a light friction fit. I used a few cable ties to secure it to the central stainless threaded rod.
When you by PE tubing it will be tightly coiled. Put it in boiling water for 5 minutes (spaghetti pot is what i used) then straighten it and let it cool. I put it on the floor with 2.5 lb weights on each end while it cooled. You need to relax the plastic before you install it. Cuts easily with diagonal pliers.
Very simple, very cheap repair.