Timer problem

Oct 5, 2015
4
jacksonville/fl
Just had a customer move timer and they called and said it was not working properly afterwards...so I get a new t101 and install...still not working. Install another still not working properly. Apparently when the off marker turns the pump off it kills power to the timer and won't turn back on. According to my electrician it is wired properly but I'm starting to wonder. Here is a pic of actual timer and a second pic of how it should be which is one in the same (just pretend the red wire is white). Any ideas on what's wrong am on my third one. If someone says the wiring is wrong I'm firingthe electrician!IMG_0027.jpgIMG_0057.jpg sorry pic turned sideways on me :confused:
 
In the original pic the power comes in from the side and the bottom wires go to the pump. In the mock up the power in is the longer wires. I will try to reverse the blacks but I'm pretty darn sure it is correct. I just joined the club I don't want anyone having to jump in the pool on my account!:)
 
Here's what's happening. The timer is on A and 1. The switch circuit is between 1 and 2. With the line connected to 2 and the load connected to 1. The timer will only work when the manual switch is in the ON position connecting 1 and 2. As the timer runs it will eventually bring the "off" clip around to the switch and turn off the power to the pump and the timer.

With the line on 1 and the load on 2, the timer is powered all the time and everything works like you would expect it to.

- - - Updated - - -

I bet, when they moved the timer the first time, they revered the position of the conduits coming into the box. From there it's all assumption. :)
 
Haha...no one jumping pool today!!! Bob has it right the black wires are reversed! We assumed based on the picture that power was coming in from the right side of the box in which case it is wired properly...but...the power is coming in from the bottom which means the line and load are reversed. You guys are awesome thanks soooo much.
 

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I'm no electrician but I've successfully installed seven of these timers on five different pools. Anybody can mistake where buried conduits come from, but to not verify that the load is the load and the line is the line is just pitiful. It takes 30 seconds with a test light to figure out this issue, only slightly longer over the internet. I'd never trust that guy again. Rookie mistakes can kill.
 
There are two other code related problems that need to be fixed.

First...The ground wiring for pools HAS to be an insulated wire.

Second problem can be fixed when you pull the new wire in. The way the current ground wire is attached is no good. The two wires need to be twisted together with a third pigtail wire and a wire nut. The pigtail then will connect to the ground screw
 
I'm no electrician but I've successfully installed seven of these timers on five different pools. Anybody can mistake where buried conduits come from, but to not verify that the load is the load and the line is the line is just pitiful. It takes 30 seconds with a test light to figure out this issue, only slightly longer over the internet. I'd never trust that guy again. Rookie mistakes can kill.

There are two other code related problems that need to be fixed.

First...The ground wiring for pools HAS to be an insulated wire.

Second problem can be fixed when you pull the new wire in. The way the current ground wire is attached is no good. The two wires need to be twisted together with a third pigtail wire and a wire nut. The pigtail then will connect to the ground screw

Get a new electrician before someone gets hurt.

Dom
 
Looking at the pictures again, I can see what is probably another code violation. The solid copper wires coming into and going out of the box are most likely part of a romex style cable assembly. It is very rare to see solid conductor wire sold as individual wires. With that, Romex style cables, except for UF cable, is not rated for wet locations. Any conduit, including liquid-tight is considered by the NEC to be a wet location. Therefore, the individual wires need to be THWN rated and marked as such
 
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