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Thread: Another n00b closing question

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    Another n00b closing question

    This one should be a quickie.

    I noticed a few weeks ago that my TA and CH are low. Do I need to remedy this before closing, or is it something that can wait until next year?

    Pardon typos; sheep have hooves, not hands.
    29,000?gal in-ground concrete rectangular
    Pump: Hayward SP2610x15 Filter: Hayward S-244T (Sand) Chlorinator: Hayward CL-200
    2 skimmers; plugged main drain (reason unknown)
    New pool owner! Hooray! /sarcasm

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    Texas Splash's Avatar
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    Re: Another n00b closing question

    Good morning. When you say low, that's a big vague. Can you post those numbers for us please?
    Pat (a.k.a. Texas Splash) ~ My Pool: Viking Fiberglass; 17,888 Gal; Waterway Supreme 2-sp/2-hp pump; Hayward Ctg filter; TF-100 w/ Speed Stir
    Vital Links: POOL SCHOOL, RECOMMENDED LEVELS, RECOMMENDED CHEMICALS, Poolmath Calculator, SLAM, Chlorine/CYA CHART.
    If you enjoyed your TFP experience, please consider donating to Support TFP!

  3. Back To Top    #3

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    Re: Another n00b closing question

    Cl: 0 (haven't run pump in a bit; been too cold to swim and just waiting to close)
    CH: 180-190
    TA: 60 (NOT sw)
    CYA: 25ish

    Pardon typos; sheep have hooves, not hands.
    29,000?gal in-ground concrete rectangular
    Pump: Hayward SP2610x15 Filter: Hayward S-244T (Sand) Chlorinator: Hayward CL-200
    2 skimmers; plugged main drain (reason unknown)
    New pool owner! Hooray! /sarcasm

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    Re: Another n00b closing question

    1. Your chlorine should not be zero. Why is it that low? Why is the pump not running?

    2. What is your water temp?

    3. I would leave TA and CH alone, I think. What is the CH and TA of your fill water? Do you plan on drawing down your pool level or have you already done so?
    Dave S.
    42k vinyl and concrete pool, 1.5hp pump, 140gpm filter
    TFTestkits , PoolMath , Pool School

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    Texas Splash's Avatar
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    Re: Another n00b closing question

    MirGSS, Thank you for your readings. As you can tell from Duraleigh's questions, your levels do raise a few concerns. In addition to what he asked, I would mention the following:
    - TA (60) Borderline. I'll come back to that through (below).
    - CH (190), is a little low from the Recommend 250-350; but I'll com back to that too (below).
    - CYA, ideally you don't want to let it go below 30. You might want to add just a little to get your through the winter.
    - Chlorine (FC): Even though you are about to close (which is why I assume your pump is off), it should never be zero. So if your pump is still connected and operational, I would definitely add some bleach right away to get you to about 4 ppm.
    - pH (?) This is important to know right now and I'll tell you why. It's related to your low CH and current TA. Because you have a plaster pool, you have to ensure CH and/or the CSI (Saturation Index) are within acceptable ranges. Too high = scale; too low = damages plaster. You can see your "CSI" level on the Poolmath calculator. If I enter your current CH (190) and TA (60), and I "assume" your pH is 7.5, then your CSI is acceptable. But if your pH goes below 7.4, then your CSI reading exceeds the -.6 range, and you could experience damage to plaster.

    If your pump is still connected and you can mix the water, I would recommend the following:
    1. Add bleach ASAP for target of 4 ppm. When you close, you go to shock level of about 12 ppm.
    2. Add baking soda to bring TA up by 20 ppm (new target of 80 ppm); this helps make-up for the low CH
    3. Ensure pH is at/about 7.6 (This also helps your CSI level to make-up for the low CH).
    Let it all mix for about an hour and re-check. If those numbers are good, then keep them that way until water temp stays below 60 and prepare to close. Sorry this was a little more lengthy reply than I wanted. Hope it helps.
    Pat (a.k.a. Texas Splash) ~ My Pool: Viking Fiberglass; 17,888 Gal; Waterway Supreme 2-sp/2-hp pump; Hayward Ctg filter; TF-100 w/ Speed Stir
    Vital Links: POOL SCHOOL, RECOMMENDED LEVELS, RECOMMENDED CHEMICALS, Poolmath Calculator, SLAM, Chlorine/CYA CHART.
    If you enjoyed your TFP experience, please consider donating to Support TFP!

  6. Back To Top    #6

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    Re: Another n00b closing question

    Thanks for all the info! I love being armed with knowledge.

    Basically yes, we got a bit lazy about maintenance because it was too cold to swim - and we knew we wouldn't be in it again this year. It's our first year owning a pool and we haven't had the resources to close (chemicals, equipment, know-how).

    Water temp was 58 this morning, and I spent a couple hours vacuuming and brushing (it really needed it). Added a bottle of bleach and planning to keep the pump running probably until we close (hopefully next weekend) to dissolve the last of our pucks.

    And stupidly I never thought to test our fill water (duh).

    Just ran out and did the quick test; chlorine is at 1 and pH is at 7.5.

    Thanks again! I'll follow your recommendations and hopefully we can close next weekend.

    Pardon typos; sheep have hooves, not hands.
    29,000?gal in-ground concrete rectangular
    Pump: Hayward SP2610x15 Filter: Hayward S-244T (Sand) Chlorinator: Hayward CL-200
    2 skimmers; plugged main drain (reason unknown)
    New pool owner! Hooray! /sarcasm

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    Re: Another n00b closing question

    One more quick question: Mr MirGSS did some research of his own about closing the pool and bought a winterizing kit. So I guess we will use that?

    But also, in some of the videos he watched, they recommended having a chlorine level of 0 at closing. Is this true? Or an option? What is the reasoning?

    29,000?gal in-ground concrete rectangular
    Pump: Hayward SP2610x15 Filter: Hayward S-244T (Sand) Chlorinator: Hayward CL-200
    2 skimmers; plugged main drain (reason unknown)
    New pool owner! Hooray! /sarcasm

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    Texas Splash's Avatar
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    Re: Another n00b closing question

    No, never an FC of zero. Even with an algaecide like Polyquat 60 we don't let it go to zero. FC is the main product preventing algae. Algaecide is simply used as "insurance", but your primary sanitizer is always chlorine (i.e. bleach). Just stick to the TFP closing instructions and you'll do fine. As for your winterizing kit, if it came with chemicals, let us know what you have before adding to ensure there's no negative impact on the water. If you have pieces or hardware you have questions about, the TFP crowd can assist with that as well.
    Pat (a.k.a. Texas Splash) ~ My Pool: Viking Fiberglass; 17,888 Gal; Waterway Supreme 2-sp/2-hp pump; Hayward Ctg filter; TF-100 w/ Speed Stir
    Vital Links: POOL SCHOOL, RECOMMENDED LEVELS, RECOMMENDED CHEMICALS, Poolmath Calculator, SLAM, Chlorine/CYA CHART.
    If you enjoyed your TFP experience, please consider donating to Support TFP!

  9. Back To Top    #9

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    Re: Another n00b closing question

    Yeah I thought that seemed weird.... especially considering the winterizing kit came with several bags of shock....

    He bought the In the Swim super kit... so aside from the shock, we have a "winterizer", a "winter stain away", a "winter sorb" sponge, and a time-release floater thing.

    I don't see a thing that lists the active ingredients. Super helpful.

    29,000?gal in-ground concrete rectangular
    Pump: Hayward SP2610x15 Filter: Hayward S-244T (Sand) Chlorinator: Hayward CL-200
    2 skimmers; plugged main drain (reason unknown)
    New pool owner! Hooray! /sarcasm

  10. Back To Top    #10
    Texas Splash's Avatar
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    Re: Another n00b closing question

    I think I found the product you purchased and noted the items below with my own comments:
    1 qt. Pool Winterizing Inhibitor (an algaecide, but not sure if it has metals in it. I suspect is may since they are also providing you with a metal stain-away product. )
    1 qt. Pool Winter Stain-Away (probably not needed if you don't already have metals in the water; unless it's from their own algaecide)
    1 lbs. Chlorine-free winter pool shock (Perhaps a Cal-Hypo product, I doubt is enough to raise FC required for your pool)
    1 Winter Pool Floater - 1.2 lbs. "non-chlorine" winter oxidizer (I also doubt this is sufficient enough)
    1 Winter Sorb™, oil absorbent winter chemical sponge - See more at: Chemical Winterizing Kits for Swimming Pools (basically a scum ball designed to absorb oils); probably not required by now if you haven't been in the water for a while.

    If I were you folks, I'd consider returning that package and simply getting some regular bleach and possibly an algaecide (if you really wanted it) in the "Polyquat 60" family. Once you use bleach to get to SLAM level and mix for 24 hours, then allow to drop halfway down to normal before adding the Polyquat 60, most people do very well as long as the water temp is below 60. Your other area of interest would be the equipment and purging the lines as required, blocking-off the skimmer (i.e. Gizmo), etc. The TFP closing procedures HERE were published after many seasons of tried & true results, and basing the measurements of chemicals on your pool capacity makes it quite precise. Just something to consider.
    Pat (a.k.a. Texas Splash) ~ My Pool: Viking Fiberglass; 17,888 Gal; Waterway Supreme 2-sp/2-hp pump; Hayward Ctg filter; TF-100 w/ Speed Stir
    Vital Links: POOL SCHOOL, RECOMMENDED LEVELS, RECOMMENDED CHEMICALS, Poolmath Calculator, SLAM, Chlorine/CYA CHART.
    If you enjoyed your TFP experience, please consider donating to Support TFP!

  11. Back To Top    #11

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    Re: Another n00b closing question

    Okay quick and dumb question.

    Skimmers and returns plugged. Pump and filter drain plugs removed. Filter valve set in between settings. Yes?

    Do my skimmer lines remain open?

    What about my chlorinator?

    29,000?gal in-ground concrete rectangular
    Pump: Hayward SP2610x15 Filter: Hayward S-244T (Sand) Chlorinator: Hayward CL-200
    2 skimmers; plugged main drain (reason unknown)
    New pool owner! Hooray! /sarcasm

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