- May 3, 2007
- 16,886
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Difference in filter pressure vs wet end pressure? Should they be different?
- Thread starter MitchRyan912
- Start date
It looks big to me. I don't think that the issue was definitively resolved. What else could it be?
What kind of suction are you getting and what kind of flow are you getting from the returns?
The size of the inlet and outlet gaps look closer to a 3 hp than a 1 hp.
What kind of suction are you getting and what kind of flow are you getting from the returns?
The size of the inlet and outlet gaps look closer to a 3 hp than a 1 hp.
No, the issue wasn't resolved. The motor is shot, so buying a new impeller doesn't help me at all... it's just throwing $50 away at this point.
I've just been trying to figure out or narrow down any other possibilities as to something else going on that's causing this to happen - and happen again. At this point, I'm preparing to just buy a whole new pump next spring, a good quality pump from a reputable manufacturer.
I've just been trying to figure out or narrow down any other possibilities as to something else going on that's causing this to happen - and happen again. At this point, I'm preparing to just buy a whole new pump next spring, a good quality pump from a reputable manufacturer.
If it's an electrical issue, then you might burn up a new pump. If you're getting strong suction and return pressure, then I would suspect one of the following.
1) Oversized impeller.
2) Wrong voltage under load. This seems to be ruled out based on tests. However, it might be a transient issue where the voltage drops only intermittently. A power quality meter with logging capabilities would help
3) Impeller impeded somehow. Perhaps rubbing on diffuser. The shaft seems to be freely rotating, so that seems to be ruled out.
4) Possibly bad frequency causing wrong rpm? Just a hypothesis, I don't know if a bad frequency would cause the rpm to be wrong. If you could check line frequency and motor rpm under load, that would help.
1) Oversized impeller.
2) Wrong voltage under load. This seems to be ruled out based on tests. However, it might be a transient issue where the voltage drops only intermittently. A power quality meter with logging capabilities would help
3) Impeller impeded somehow. Perhaps rubbing on diffuser. The shaft seems to be freely rotating, so that seems to be ruled out.
4) Possibly bad frequency causing wrong rpm? Just a hypothesis, I don't know if a bad frequency would cause the rpm to be wrong. If you could check line frequency and motor rpm under load, that would help.
It sounds like you only have 120 volt and not 230 volt connections some how, based on the amp readings,and this can be the reason motor is overheating,etc. you may think you have it hooked up right,but you should rule out any possibility you don't, amp ratings double for 120 volt this is 230v motor that draws 6.1 amps hi speed and 2.1 amps on low because they are double from 230v amp specs,you should rule out this as a possible problem, without being on site this is just an observation, based on key things you mentioned related to amp readings your getting on meter.
The original motor for this pump was drawing a whopping 45A though!!
When I first hooked up the current motor, I tested the draw without any load, and it was fine. I then tested it under load, and it was still fine. A month later, something happened while we were on vacation that caused the motor to pull more current.
When I first hooked up the current motor, I tested the draw without any load, and it was fine. I then tested it under load, and it was still fine. A month later, something happened while we were on vacation that caused the motor to pull more current.
45 amps seems very unlikely. Something is definitely not right somewhere. 45 amps should trip any regular breaker.
What size is the breaker?
What size is the breaker?
We have an old Wadsworth panel that won't trip a breaker to save its life. In renovating our kitchen a couple years ago, I accidentally let an outlet touch the metal box it was in, blasting a huge chunk out of the mud ring and it completely melted the terminal nut of the outlet.
We're going to be replacing that panel and upgrading to a 150A service soon, before we do some other work in the house (new water heater, furnace, & AC.)
- - - Updated - - -
We're going to be replacing that panel and upgrading to a 150A service soon, before we do some other work in the house (new water heater, furnace, & AC.)
- - - Updated - - -
Getting a 1 hp motor to draw 45 amps seems unlikely. All that power has to be going somewhere. If it's not moving water, it has to be going to heat or somewhere else. Perhaps current is going to ground? Maybe have a good master electrician check the power supply.
Are you sure that the meter was set to ac and not dc?
45 amps at 240 volts is 10,800 watts. That's crazy high.
Are you sure that the meter was set to ac and not dc?
45 amps at 240 volts is 10,800 watts. That's crazy high.
The motor in question was hooked up to nothing, not even the wet end, when it was drawing 45A. I couldn't see how long it would sustain this because it would literally smoke if I left it on for more than a few seconds. So yes, definitely a lot of heat is being generated in that and the current motor. The current motor gets too hot to touch if left on for more than a minute.
Something is seriously wrong. I would recommend having a qualified master electrician check the power supply.
I think that's the next best course of action, which gives us some time to save up to buy a nice new pump next spring. Now I'm back to the drawing board... what pump to get next spring? This is where I was back in June, trying to figure out how to size the pump/motor to the correct size of my pool/filter/MPV/pipes.
Not really sure, but it sounds like a motor experiencing some type of internal short. Sometimes, a breakdown in the internal insulation can cause the winding wires to short to themselves. The current is shunted through just part of the winding, which can lead to excessive current, heating, and eventually total winding failure.
If you want a good reliable pump, I've been very happy with the Pentair Intelliflo pump. They're pricey, but they're constructed well work beautifully. Might even pay for itself in lowered electricity costs, but depends on your local utility rates.
This is happening on multiple motors even when not connected to a pump. That seems to rule out the motor or pump unless the motors are being wired wrong.
It seems to be something related to the supply. In any case, I think that it's time for an electrician who can evaluate the situation first hand.
I would also be concerned about the integrity of the wiring from the breaker if it's been overloaded.
It seems to be something related to the supply. In any case, I think that it's time for an electrician who can evaluate the situation first hand.
I would also be concerned about the integrity of the wiring from the breaker if it's been overloaded.
I've been testing out some things with the pump, in waste mode, in order to drain the pool for closing time.
I'm able to run it on high speed for about 30 seconds at first, which gets the pump pretty close to prime (the basket never completely fills with water.) The thermal protection mode will click on (audibly), but it somehow still runs, albeit slowly. I'll then flip it to low speed mode, where it seems to operate normally, both audibly and operationally, until the high speed thermal protection clicks back to normal. At that point, it'll run on low speed but in a way that sounds pretty horrible. It won't run like this for very long, popping the low speed thermal protection mode on after a few seconds.
I managed to figure out that once high speed (effectively) shuts down, if I flip it to low speed and let it run until the high speed thermal mode goes back to normal, if I keep flipping the speeds back and forth as soon as the high speed thermal mode returns to normal, I'll be able to keep the pump running continually for a good while. I was able to drain a few thousand gallons of water today, which is getting me closer to being able to close the pool for winter, and then deal with this mess in the spring.
I don't know enough about motors to know what is going on with it right now, but maybe this might mean something to someone on here.
I'm able to run it on high speed for about 30 seconds at first, which gets the pump pretty close to prime (the basket never completely fills with water.) The thermal protection mode will click on (audibly), but it somehow still runs, albeit slowly. I'll then flip it to low speed mode, where it seems to operate normally, both audibly and operationally, until the high speed thermal protection clicks back to normal. At that point, it'll run on low speed but in a way that sounds pretty horrible. It won't run like this for very long, popping the low speed thermal protection mode on after a few seconds.
I managed to figure out that once high speed (effectively) shuts down, if I flip it to low speed and let it run until the high speed thermal mode goes back to normal, if I keep flipping the speeds back and forth as soon as the high speed thermal mode returns to normal, I'll be able to keep the pump running continually for a good while. I was able to drain a few thousand gallons of water today, which is getting me closer to being able to close the pool for winter, and then deal with this mess in the spring.
I don't know enough about motors to know what is going on with it right now, but maybe this might mean something to someone on here.
If you're running more current through the wiring than it can handle, you might cause a fire.
This motor isn't pulling 45 A like the original single speed motor was. There's also not smoke billowing out of it. I'm running it on low speed for the most part, so that helps keep the current down.
as you have a multi meter
measure the line voltage and ensure you have 240v with motor running on low
ensure you have nothing on the ground wire
and please be carefull
measure the line voltage and ensure you have 240v with motor running on low
ensure you have nothing on the ground wire
and please be carefull
Check the voltage line-to-line and each line to ground. Check for current on the gound wire and on the bond wire. Check the frequency.