Problem With Pool Clarity

Jump to latest Follow Reply
T

Theodgreek

0
Apr 16, 2015
9
Boston Massachusetts
Hello pool interwebs,
I am currently experiencing a problem with my pools clarity. I have a 33,000 gallon indoor pool with a 1.25 hp pump and a sta-rite d.e filter. We have had the pool for a little over a year. For the first few months we had a pool guy who told us to use pucks and he would come and shock the pool every time he would come. Then we fired him and I started taking care of the pool . I switched to cal-hypo and hadn't had a problem yet. 3.5 months ago we cleaned the filter and that went OK. Now for the past week we have had clarity issues. The top of the water has a film and is bubbling. There is some white string like things. Here are my test ressults using a Taylor k2005.
F.C=25
Ph=7.4
TA=90
CH=750
CYA=200-220
Temp=80
Any help would be very appreciated.
 
I got some good news and some not so good news

- - - Updated - - -

The good news is we can help you fix this. The not so good news is, you might have to drain at least 3/4 of your pool.

For an indoor pool your cya should not be over 30

- - - Updated - - -

The use of pucks has driven your cya so high that it's unmaningable.

- - - Updated - - -

How did you get 25 FC from a Taylor 2005? I think it only goes up to like 5 or maybe 10...
 
Thank you for the quick response. I knew I partial drain was inevitable but I thought I could get the CYA down to around 150 with a 1/4 drain and then drop it down a little more with the bioactive reducer. 33,000 gallons is a lot of water and it seems like an awful waste to get ride of pretty much all the water. But then clarity issue you think is directly related to the CYA? Even with that high of a Free Chlorine? Once again I appreciate the help.
 
I just checked and unfortunately it's more like 80 -90% drain and fill. Ouch!

- - - Updated - - -

Bio active has not shown to work in real life testing here on this forum. Quite a few have tried with little or no success

- - - Updated - - -

That amount of FC is the bare minimum for that level of cya. All it would take is for it to drop a little and you would be in trouble with algae and sanitation.
 
pabeader said:
The Taylor K-2005 only goes to 10ppm. How did you get 25??

- - - Updated - - -

:wave: Oh BTW Welcome to TFP!! We ARE glad you came here.
Click to expand...

I did a test diluated with distilted water according to the instructions in the kitchen.

- - - Updated - - -

Do you think it would be worth it to do a full drain and fill with fresh water? Also there was some yellow stuff in therl skimmer when I went to clean it. Is that dead algae?
 
Good for you! Most folks don't know about that. It does cut the accuracy down so even though you are coming up with 25 it could just as easily be 20 or 30...

I really can't think of a reason it wouldn't be your best option at this point.

Most likely algae, but could have been just normal stuff that collects from people and the air.
 
While all that's going on I suggest you read a few things in Pool School so you'll be ready to start your new adventure when your pool is ready for you.

Remember, no more pucks. All you need is common bleach from the grocery store, and maybe a little pH adjustment now and then. That's all the is usually needed for 90% of the pool we deal with.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
pabeader said:
While all that's going on I suggest you read a few things in Pool School so you'll be ready to start your new adventure when your pool is ready for you.

Remember, no more pucks. All you need is common bleach from the grocery store, and maybe a little pH adjustment now and then. That's all the is usually needed for 90% of the pool we deal with.
Click to expand...
Yeah I know I have go to stop the pucks. I had tried bleach for a while but I saw it wasn't to effective, but I guess that is because of the extremely high CYA. We have very soft water(80), do you think it would be ok to use the cal-hypo up until the CH is around 300? I have a 1/4 of the container left and I would like to use it up. I will most definitely be using bleach after the drain though if you think the cal-hypo is no good.
 
It is ok to to let your CH go up to 500 or more as long as you manage your TA, PH and your CSI score in Poolmath. There are people in hard water areas with CH at 800-1000 or more that are doing ok with it.
 
Our philosophy is you are free to use whatever, as long as you understand the effects and are willing to deal with them. So the cal-hypo is fine for you, since you know what it's going to do. Also, you will want some CYA up to 20 is okay. You need it to buffer the FC. Then use the FC/CYA chart to decide your correct target for FC.

- - - Updated - - -

Not sure about the painting though. Maybe there is someone else here who will chime in soon.
 
pabeader said:
Our philosophy is you are free to use whatever, as long as you understand the effects and are willing to deal with them. So the cal-hypo is fine for you, since you know what it's going to do. Also, you will want some CYA up to 20 is okay. You need it to buffer the FC. Then use the FC/CYA chart to decide your correct target for FC.

- - - Updated - - -

Not sure about the painting though. Maybe there is someone else here who will chime in soon.
Click to expand...

Thank you, I may use it a little just to get the CH up, but I will not be using it permanently. I will be using bleach.
I may or may not paint it, I guess I will decide when I see the pool empty.thank you for all your help.
 
We have a pool that was presumably painted sometime last March. (The selling realtor did not provide any information.) Upon professional inspection we were told that painting is a temporary solution. Looks good for a while but deterorates quickly.

After muc searching on the net and here at TFT we learned that even if it is good quality paint, designed for pools, properly applied, it will likely flake off and require some other solution within 2-3 years. I can tell you that we are seeing more and more bubbling on the walls just one year later. Not yet a problem for the filter catching the particles but I am keeping close watch.

For background, temperatures have been between 80 and up to 106 here in Pittsburg, CA since June. Plastic bubble wrap cover is on at night and days when we are not swimming. Maintenance has been no different than plaster pools: brushing, vacuuming, nightly pumping with cartridge filter, and of course chlorine at recommended TFT levels for CYA. No other chemicals.

The same inspector estimated that it will cost $5 - 7,000 to resurface the pool, assuming no additional work is needed to patch or repair.

I would recommend against painting.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply