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Thread: closing numbers and questions

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    closing numbers and questions

    OK so it's time to close down and here are my numbers:

    FC 17
    pH 8
    CYA ~40
    Alk 50

    The pH needs to be adjusted to 7.2-7.5 which I will do this evening by adding muriatic acid.
    From what I have read I should keep the FC at shock level for 2-3 days before closing which is the plan.
    Also read that I should use polyquat. Well taking inventory I have 2 copper based algaecides at 3.3% and
    a gallon and a half of pool brand algaecide 40. Is the polyquat necessary or could I use the others?
    I have always opened to a green pool in the spring both using pool store chems and the BBB method. It's not
    a big deal and usually clears up in 4-5 days max. Is there something else I should be doing to prevent this? I waited
    until the temp was well below 60 last year and opened in april to a green pool. I maintained shock level
    2 days before I closed last year as well.

    And the last question is about my vinyl liner. It's the original 2005 ish and probably needs replacing soon, but since I started using the BBB
    method I have noticed a rapid decline in the appearance of the liner just above water level. Is this due to old age and sun exposure or possibly dumping bleach and acid in day after day? I will attach a picture for a visual.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    12,000 gal Octagon vinyl in-ground pool. Hayward S220 sand filter 3/4 hp pump, heat pump heater

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    Texas Splash's Avatar
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    Re: closing numbers and questions

    In regards to your closing, simply raise the FC up to your SLAM/Shock level and let it mix for 24 hrs. If you know you are going to use Polyquat 60, allow the FC to drop about halfway down before adding. I can't vouch for your other brands of algaecides, but I would suggest posting their brand name, major ingredient, and/or perhaps a pic for others to see. In fact, you don't "have" to use any algaecide if you don't want to. If you chose not to, then simply press-on with the closing procedures as noted Pool School - Closing an In Ground Pool.

    As for your liner fading above the waterline, I can't imagine that being from following the TFPC methods, especially when all the levels are appropriately maintained. 10 years is a long time for exposure to UV rays, water reflection, and such. Maybe someone else can reply with a comparison of their liner service life. Best of luck on your pool closing!
    Pat (a.k.a. Texas Splash) ~ My Pool: Viking Fiberglass; 17,888 Gal; Waterway Supreme 2-sp/2-hp pump; Hayward Ctg filter; TF-100 w/ Speed Stir
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    Mod Squad woodyp's Avatar
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    Re: closing numbers and questions

    Fading "above the water line" is your clue to the fact that it isn't the chemicals. Good old UV.
    16x32x52" Steel Cornelius Miramar AGP Vinyl liner 13,100 gal. Buried 2 ft.
    2 Speed Hayward Power-Flo Matrix 85 g.p.m. 22" 250lb. sand filter hard plumbed
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    Re: closing numbers and questions

    What is the black at the waterline?

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    Re: closing numbers and questions

    Quote Originally Posted by tadcpht View Post
    I have 2 copper based algaecides at 3.3%
    Copper is the cause of hair and swimwear turning green. It's difficult to get rid of, too.
    23,000 gallons IG gunite, pebble (I think)
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    Mineral Springs SWCG (it's actually Hayward/Goldline), Hayward Goldline T-CELL-15
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    Re: closing numbers and questions

    ok so that's a "no" on the copper. I have another algaecide (pictured) pool brand algaecide 40. I hope I will be able to use this. As for the black stuff at the top of the vinyl liner, I have no idea. I have scrubbed and scrubbed to no avail. Also is 10 years about the max on a vinyl liner?168.jpg168.jpg
    12,000 gal Octagon vinyl in-ground pool. Hayward S220 sand filter 3/4 hp pump, heat pump heater

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    Texas Splash's Avatar
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    Re: closing numbers and questions

    tadcpht, have you put this in the water yet? If not, I was going to suggest holding-on just for a moment. I'm trying to read the active ingredient of this stuff you got, and it appears to be ammonia based. Maybe I'm reading it wrong. The Poloyquat, which can be sold under different names, has a main ingredient called, "Poly [oxyethylene (dimethyliminio) ethylene (dimethyliminio) ethylene dichloride". So if you haven't put it in yet, I would feel better letting a couple other members review this product to make sure it's acceptable. If it's too late for that, well, then just press-on with closing.
    Pat (a.k.a. Texas Splash) ~ My Pool: Viking Fiberglass; 17,888 Gal; Waterway Supreme 2-sp/2-hp pump; Hayward Ctg filter; TF-100 w/ Speed Stir
    Vital Links: POOL SCHOOL, RECOMMENDED LEVELS, RECOMMENDED CHEMICALS, Poolmath Calculator, SLAM, Chlorine/CYA CHART.
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    Texas Splash's Avatar
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    Re: closing numbers and questions

    Pat (a.k.a. Texas Splash) ~ My Pool: Viking Fiberglass; 17,888 Gal; Waterway Supreme 2-sp/2-hp pump; Hayward Ctg filter; TF-100 w/ Speed Stir
    Vital Links: POOL SCHOOL, RECOMMENDED LEVELS, RECOMMENDED CHEMICALS, Poolmath Calculator, SLAM, Chlorine/CYA CHART.
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    Re: closing numbers and questions

    Quote Originally Posted by Texas Splash View Post
    Ouch, that's 5% Ethanol.

    Dom
    Last edited by domct203; 09-30-2015 at 08:34 PM. Reason: Spelling
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    Re: closing numbers and questions

    I have not put it in yet but need to close the pool. Judging from the reaction....it's not good? Like I said before I have that and copper based ones. Which would be better? And is it better to add chlorine first or algaecide first?

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    Texas Splash's Avatar
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    Re: closing numbers and questions

    Based on your two available options, if it were me, I would not using either one. It just means that instead of raising the FC to SLAM level "first", THEN letting it drop halfway before adding the algaecide, now there is no algaecide. Instead, you would raise the FC to SLAM level and simply close/cover the pool right away. Just make sure the water temp stays below 60. If you are a pool owner who doesn't cover their pool, you could always check the FC once a month or so just to see if you need to slowly add a little bleach.

    Here was a previous discussion about the Poolbrand Algaecide 40 product you just got:
    It's a linear quat. They can cause bubbles or foam, but that goes away in a few days. If you're not having trouble using it, keep using it until you run out and then switch to a poly-quat for winterizing. Algaecides are really not necessary IF you keep your FC up continually, but can be a nice insurance policy if you happen to miss a dosing or get a huge chlorine demand load in the pool. Chlorine is the best algaecide, but if you fear that your level may fall at some point, using the algaecide is a nice back- up and not overly expensive.
    The main ingredient is not the same, and this is called a linear-quat. It's less expensive and less effective and won't last as long as true PQ60. It can also cause unwanted side effects like foaming.
    You always want to avoid copper-based algaecides because of the metal to the water which causes more problems later.
    Pat (a.k.a. Texas Splash) ~ My Pool: Viking Fiberglass; 17,888 Gal; Waterway Supreme 2-sp/2-hp pump; Hayward Ctg filter; TF-100 w/ Speed Stir
    Vital Links: POOL SCHOOL, RECOMMENDED LEVELS, RECOMMENDED CHEMICALS, Poolmath Calculator, SLAM, Chlorine/CYA CHART.
    If you enjoyed your TFP experience, please consider donating to Support TFP!

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