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Thread: SWG Not Maintaining Cl

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    SWG Not Maintaining Cl

    Howdy from TX. Been struggling with pool for last 3 months. Had black spots in July, got rid of those by adding 25 lbs of granular shock per Leslie's. Can't argue with results, black spots gone in 4-5 days. Since then have reduced CYA by removing/adding H2O. Current Leslie's test results:
    FC 0
    TAC 0 (added 2ga of liquid chlorine 2 days ago)
    Salt 2700 (added bag today)
    CH 260
    TA 110
    pH 7.8 (added 30oz today)
    Cu 0
    Fe 0
    Phosphates 300 (I know, who cares)
    Spa attached to pool, spills over into main pool area

    Hayward/Goldline Controls SWG, but replaced motherboard last year with aftermarket version. Chlorine has been my struggle all summer. Can't seem to get pool consistent. Can't figure out what to do about the constant zeroing of TAC/FC. Suggestions? Any & all help appreciated! Thanks!
    txreap
    19.5K, IG plaster pool, with spill over spa, circa 1997. Goldline Controls SWG, T-15 cell. Pump-Centurion single speed. Sand Filter- Pentair Tagelus 60D installed '13. Polaris 360 with 1/2hp Booster pump. Austin, TX. TF-100 Test kit (with stirrer)!

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    Mod Squad tim5055's Avatar
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    Re: SWG Not Maintaining Cl

    Welcome to TFP!

    A one time addition of chlorine will not normally kill All of the algae. I'm betting you are still harboring a low level amount of algae that is consuming your chlorine.

    Check out the Pool School (link above) and read two articles

    How to perform an OCLT

    How to SLAM your pool

    Stay away from pool stores for testing, they are notoriously wrong. Get your own quality test kit and take control!
    TFP Moderator 39 X 18 23,000(ish) freeform gunite; built 2007ish; Pentair Triton II TR100 600lb Sand filter; 2 HP Pentair pump with 2.2 HP AO Smith single speed motor; 2 skimmers, 1 main drain, 4 returns w/waterfall, Stenner 45MHP2 3GPD running@ 60% - 15 gal Tank; heated by the sun CYA 200+ when I started - 50 now. Dolphin Supreme M5 Pool Cleaner. Hot Springs SX Spa, 285 gallon

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    Divin Dave's Avatar
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    Re: SWG Not Maintaining Cl

    Hi txreap.
    two things consume chlorine, organics and UV from the sun.

    CYA protects the FC from the sun as well as can be.
    If you dont keep your FC in the proper ratio with the CYA though, then it wont be high enough to fend off consumption by organics. My gut tells me, that if you are algae free, and keep your FC in the proper range, then you wont have this problem.

    Like Tim suggests, get yourself a proper test kit (either the TF-100 or K2006), and do your own testing.
    The Overnight Chlorine Test is the tell all when it comes to organics. If you loose more than 1ppm overnight, there is something somewhere consuming your chlorine.
    Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart
    Pool School - Recommended Levels
    Divin Dave,
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    Re: SWG Not Maintaining Cl

    Can you post the diagnostic readings?

    What is the pump run time and the percentage setting?

    What cell do you have?

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    Re: SWG Not Maintaining Cl

    All, thanks for the feedback! #1, will order K2006 today online. Due to Leslie's reported CYA level yesterday of x40, added 4 lbs conditioner and 2 bags of chlor-brite shock. PoolMath suggested 6 lbs of conditioner, since I also need Cl, I added the chlor-brite. Today's SWG readings:

    Running Pump 13 hrs/day, with SWG at 85%, T-15 cell.

    Salt 3100
    1. 85
    2. 31.3
    3. 0
    4. 8P
    5. -0
    6. 88
    7. r8.8 (aftermarket motherboard)

    Today self-testing results are Cl ~2.5, TA 110, pH ~7.6. My current test kit doesn't really differentiate between FC & TAC. To me there is no color change while allowing the Cl test to sit for several minutes. Thanks again for your help!
    txreap
    19.5K, IG plaster pool, with spill over spa, circa 1997. Goldline Controls SWG, T-15 cell. Pump-Centurion single speed. Sand Filter- Pentair Tagelus 60D installed '13. Polaris 360 with 1/2hp Booster pump. Austin, TX. TF-100 Test kit (with stirrer)!

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    Re: SWG Not Maintaining Cl

    I wouldn't add any more stabilizer until you get a good test kit that gives an accurate reading. If you have to SLAM (likely if you are losing chlorine and had some previous algae- the black spots) it will make it harder with higher CYA.
    26' X 52" Intex Ultra Frame. Intex Sand Filter
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    You can lead a horse to (clear) water, but you can't force him to swim in it!

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    Re: SWG Not Maintaining Cl

    All, thanks for the feedback! #1, will order K2006 today online. Due to Leslie's reported CYA level yesterday of x40, added 4 lbs conditioner and 2 bags of chlor-brite shock. PoolMath suggested 6 lbs of conditioner, since I also need Cl, I added the chlor-brite. Today's SWG readings:

    Running Pump 13 hrs/day, with SWG at 85%, T-15 cell.

    Salt 3100
    1. 85
    2. 31.3
    3. 0
    4. 8P
    5. -0
    6. 88
    7. r8.8 (aftermarket motherboard)

    Today self-testing results are Cl ~2.5, TA 110, pH ~7.6. My current test kit doesn't really differentiate between FC & TAC. To me there is no color change while allowing the Cl test to sit for several minutes. Thanks again for your help!
    txreap
    19.5K, IG plaster pool, with spill over spa, circa 1997. Goldline Controls SWG, T-15 cell. Pump-Centurion single speed. Sand Filter- Pentair Tagelus 60D installed '13. Polaris 360 with 1/2hp Booster pump. Austin, TX. TF-100 Test kit (with stirrer)!

  8. Back To Top    #8

    Re: SWG Not Maintaining Cl

    The 8p means 8 percent. Is that a typo?

    Move the switch to off
    change the percent to 50
    Move the switch to auto
    wait 1 minute and then check the diagnostics.

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    Mod Squad tim5055's Avatar
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    Re: SWG Not Maintaining Cl

    I second the thought of holding off on more stabilizer until,you get a test kit and verify your numbers. The chlor-brite shock is dichlor and it containes a lot of stabilizer itself. I would recommend only using the SWG or liquid products.

    I would also recommend the TF-100 over the K-2006 for two reasons. First, it's more bang for the buck. K-2006 kits come in sizes denoted by a letter at the end. The K-2006C is the closest to the TF100 and it usually runs over $100. Secondly, the TF100 sales help support this site.
    TFP Moderator 39 X 18 23,000(ish) freeform gunite; built 2007ish; Pentair Triton II TR100 600lb Sand filter; 2 HP Pentair pump with 2.2 HP AO Smith single speed motor; 2 skimmers, 1 main drain, 4 returns w/waterfall, Stenner 45MHP2 3GPD running@ 60% - 15 gal Tank; heated by the sun CYA 200+ when I started - 50 now. Dolphin Supreme M5 Pool Cleaner. Hot Springs SX Spa, 285 gallon

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    Re: SWG Not Maintaining Cl

    Quote Originally Posted by JamesW View Post
    The 8p means 8 percent. Is that a typo?

    Move the switch to off
    change the percent to 50
    Move the switch to auto
    wait 1 minute and then check the diagnostics.
    I did as suggested, the reading of 8P is confirmed.
    txreap
    19.5K, IG plaster pool, with spill over spa, circa 1997. Goldline Controls SWG, T-15 cell. Pump-Centurion single speed. Sand Filter- Pentair Tagelus 60D installed '13. Polaris 360 with 1/2hp Booster pump. Austin, TX. TF-100 Test kit (with stirrer)!

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    Re: SWG Not Maintaining Cl

    It seems that your percentage is stuck at 8 percent. That could explain the low chlorine output.

    Try going to the percent setting and move the dial. If the displayed percentage does not change, then the display board might be bad or just not making good contact.

    If it does not change, try this. Turn off power to the unit and remove the front cover. Remove the display board and reset. If that does not work, try removing and spraying the display board with electronics cleaner. Allow the cleaner to fully evaporate and then reinstall the board. If that does not work, then you might need a new display board.

    The non Hayward main board might also be the problem as it is probably of a lesser quality.

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    Re: SWG Not Maintaining Cl

    Thanks JamesW. When I played with it this morning, I was able to see it go further down to 5P. When I changed it to Super Chlorinate, it changed to 100P. I left it at 100P for today. Will try removing/reinstalling the display board this evening. In '10, the entire control unit was flooded due to hurricane Hermine. Eventually the main board failed. There is some rust under the dial switch on the board, so it's probably corroded underneath. If anyone has a part number for the board level component, I'll try swapping it out for $4-5 the part might cost at Digi-key.
    txreap
    19.5K, IG plaster pool, with spill over spa, circa 1997. Goldline Controls SWG, T-15 cell. Pump-Centurion single speed. Sand Filter- Pentair Tagelus 60D installed '13. Polaris 360 with 1/2hp Booster pump. Austin, TX. TF-100 Test kit (with stirrer)!

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    Re: SWG Not Maintaining Cl

    Received TF-100 today and just finished testing. Results:

    _____10/1___________10/2
    7pm_______9pm____OCLT 7am
    Cl 5.0
    pH 7.35
    FC 3.5_____ 3.0_____3.5 (9pm filter off, 7am filter on)
    CC 0.5_____ 1.5_____1.0
    CH 700
    TA 120
    CYA 50_____________50

    Cl is where it is b/c I added 1GA this morning since I know my SWG Display Board percentage not working and wasn't sure if test kit would arrive today.
    CA appears high, no evidence of scaling at waters edge. I have recently replaced water by at least 30%, and live in an area with heavy limestone base. No scaling history in 10 years, so I am not sure if action is required. Bottom of pool does have brownish tint along curved side bottoms. Update after orig post: CSI on Pool Math shows 0.15 & -0.49, so I am ok, right?
    TA definitely high, I have added MA nearly every day this week in declining quantities (1 pt yesterday, 0 today). Will continue to do so unless strong opinions otherwise to reduce TA.

    Will wait to take any further actions until I get some confirmations on approach. However, I will perform the OCLT since I am in a good position to do so. Thanks in advance for your feedback!

    PS> I had added 4 lbs of stablizer and 2 lbs of Leslie's chlor-bright on 9/27.
    Last edited by txreap; 10-02-2015 at 07:31 AM. Reason: update with OCLT result
    txreap
    19.5K, IG plaster pool, with spill over spa, circa 1997. Goldline Controls SWG, T-15 cell. Pump-Centurion single speed. Sand Filter- Pentair Tagelus 60D installed '13. Polaris 360 with 1/2hp Booster pump. Austin, TX. TF-100 Test kit (with stirrer)!

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    Re: SWG Not Maintaining Cl

    Quote Originally Posted by JamesW View Post
    It seems that your percentage is stuck at 8 percent. That could explain the low chlorine output.

    Try going to the percent setting and move the dial. If the displayed percentage does not change, then the display board might be bad or just not making good contact.

    If it does not change, try this. Turn off power to the unit and remove the front cover. Remove the display board and reset. If that does not work, try removing and spraying the display board with electronics cleaner. Allow the cleaner to fully evaporate and then reinstall the board. If that does not work, then you might need a new display board.

    The non Hayward main board might also be the problem as it is probably of a lesser quality.
    JamesW, Received new Hayward Display board. Percentage now reflects whatever dial is pointing at. Thanks! Do I need to join/start a new thread to get feedback on my TF-100 results posted 10/1 & 10/2 as part of this thread?
    txreap
    19.5K, IG plaster pool, with spill over spa, circa 1997. Goldline Controls SWG, T-15 cell. Pump-Centurion single speed. Sand Filter- Pentair Tagelus 60D installed '13. Polaris 360 with 1/2hp Booster pump. Austin, TX. TF-100 Test kit (with stirrer)!

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    Mod Squad pooldv's Avatar
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    Re: SWG Not Maintaining Cl

    High CH is manageable as long as you keep your CSI in range. I've seen people here with CH up to 1000 and still OK. Lowering your TA to 60-80 will help reduce PH rise, Pool School - Lower Total Alkalinity. But, if you don't mind adding acid to lower PH then it is fine and TA will gradually lower on its own.
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