TF-100 test kit results...not pretty. Planning to do pool math. Or no?

Sep 11, 2015
8
Scottsdale/Arizona
I tested my pool water two times within 4 days just to make sure I am doing this correctly. Results were pretty much the same both times:

Chlorine: ZERO - not pink. Watery white.
Calcium Hardness: 2,875 ppm or 3,750 ppm depending on which blue is blue enough.
Total Alkalinity: 60 or 230, depending on which red is the proper red
CYA Test: The reading is > 100. I didn't have to pour much solution before the dot disappeared.

Check out the photos below to see the colors I'm referring to. I think I need to drain the pool and fill it with new water, right? Sounds like it might be time to add that lazy river I've been dreaming of...
image.jpg
 
I think it is said that the value of the color is not necessarily important but that you should continue adding (and counting) drops until the color stops changing. This probably happened near your higher end numbers.

Try to dilute the CYA test; use 50% pool water and 50% tap water then add the reagent and retest. Hopefully this will give you a number less than 100. Multiply that number times 2 and that will give you a better handle on the actual CYA.

Drain and refill sounds likely, but you should try the CYA again then the more experienced folks will chime in.
 
Hi Kelly. Normally we would emphasize getting chlorine in there right away since it's showing as zero. But you have two other problems: CH and CYA. :( CH (hardness) too high leads to scaling, and CYA (stabilizer) over 100 (could be higher) means that some water needs to be replaced. Water exchange is the only way to reduce CYA, so by replacing water it should also help reduce the hardness. Are you up for that? You may not have to drain the whole pool, but you may want to do about half and re-test the CYA and CH. There's no sense putting any chemicals in the water if you're going to drain right away. If you want, you can try the CYA dilution method as Pool Tool noted above as follows:
CYA Dilution Testing:
Add pool water to bottom of sticker.
Add tap water to top of sticker.
Shake.
Pour out half so mixture is to bottom of sticker.
Add reagent to top of sticker.
Shake.
Test outside with back to sun and tube at waist level.
Pour back and forth a few times to see if you get the same result.
Double the result.

Either way, I see a partial drain in your future. Sorry. :( But after that, we can help you to never do that again. :)

- - - Updated - - -

Also, by using only products listed here on the Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals, you can be assured your water will be well maintained.
 
Well, if it's a decade's old pool and you just bought the house, you're probably up for a water exchange. Can you tell us more about how the water looks and what the condition of the plaster is? Is the equipment functional.

My guess is, the previous owners were probably just following pool store advice or letting a service company manage the water with all sorts of solid chlorine products (calcium hypochlorite and dichlor/trichlor compounds). So the water is probably loaded up with stabilizer and calcium. If a drain and fill is indicated, then you may want to go all-in, drain it completely, acid wash the plaster if it needs it and start over. 27,000 gallons is a lot of $$$ for us Arizona desert dwellers, but it's going to cost $$$ either way.
 
I think it is said that the value of the color is not necessarily important but that you should continue adding (and counting) drops until the color stops changing. This probably happened near your higher end numbers.

Actually, i think for the CH test the change point from Red to Blue would be closer to the lower value 115 than the higher value. Your looking for a substantial color change from Red to Blue and maybe a few more drops that ensure it is truly a stable color change that is well mixed, but you don't want to keep adding drops infinitum.

Same consideration for the Alkalinity test.

All might be a mute point considering how horribly out of balance the water is.
 
...Try to dilute the CYA test; use 50% pool water and 50% tap water then add the reagent and retest. Hopefully this will give you a number less than 100. Multiply that number times 2 and that will give you a better handle on the actual CYA...
...If you want, you can try the CYA dilution method as Pool Tool noted above...

Well folks, the CYA is 160 (80 x 2) so it looks like I'm going to have to drain the pool. I'll probably drain the whole thing & acid wash the plaster & do whatever else it needs - "all-in"

...Can you tell us more about how the water looks and what the condition of the plaster is? Is the equipment functional...

I think the pool water looks pretty good. It is clear. The pump, filter, and good ol' Flounder seem to be doing their job.
image.jpg

You are going to want to test your fill water too! When you drain, hopefully the water you are going to refill with is not the problem...
Aaaaarrrghhh, Bob you're killing me!
Salt in the wound. Ha!
 
That's a very nice pool. The water looks nice. You would never know the CYA is so high, but with it that high means you are using a lot of sanitizer (FC) to keep-up with it. Uhg. Scaling is prominent in many areas of the country, but certainly in AZ. That's why the suggestion about the acid wash while it's drained. You may notice scaling on the walls - kind of white, rough texture feeling perhaps?
 
Kelly,

I'd like to first off welcome you to TFP! To help you with the TF-100 tests I'd suggest you watch the video's on their YouTube Channel. It displays each test very simply and will help you see what you're looking for.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.