I have been following this site since my pool was redone. At that time I purchased a new Raypak C-R407A-EN-C pool Heater (May 2105)
I have the TP100 test kit and since my CYA level is 50 and I have been keeping my FC level at ~6 (bumping up to 7-8 to account for daily loss)
I am experiencing a leak at the iron header of the heater when the PVC coupling screws into.
This has now happened twice since I purchased. It took about 6 weeks for the leak to appear the first time.
Called my pool builder and he verified with Raypak that standard PVC coupling was correct for the iron headers.
Raypak came out to inspect and said the heater is functioning fine, however their troubleshooting (or lack of) concerns me.
First the Raypak tech said the PVC is too close the my block wall (The header is ~ 8" from the wall. The coupling that attaches to it connects directly to a 90 going down)
Then the tech looks at the sensors via the front status panel. SW1, SW2, SW3 showed triggered, or high heat or something. The tech then said I must have run the heater with no water running through. I told him I did not, and besides the heater is not supposed to function without sufficient water flow - and he agreed and said the unit is running fine. Then Why the switch errors?
Then the tech said that maybe I need the optional hood vent to direct the heat upwards. He ordered one and it was delivered, but not installed yet.
The lack of a definitive answer has me troubled because once my pool guy replaced the connections - the heater was fine for anther 6 weeks or so - but now I am developing a leak again at the same location.
My concern is those 3 switches that indicated high temp. Should they be able to be reset, to see if they trip again? The first tech never 'reset' anything when he visited.
I asked to have an ASME certified tech inspect my heater - and they said "All our techs are ASME certified" but I'm not sure I believe that based on the lack of troubleshooting.
I paid extra for the ASME Commercial model - and am unsatisfied with the leaking and lack of resolution to this point.
I have Raypak scheduled to come out again - in anticipation of him 'not finding anything wrong with my unit' any suggestions?
Could my chlorine level be causing this?
Thanks in advance.
Devon
I have the TP100 test kit and since my CYA level is 50 and I have been keeping my FC level at ~6 (bumping up to 7-8 to account for daily loss)
I am experiencing a leak at the iron header of the heater when the PVC coupling screws into.
This has now happened twice since I purchased. It took about 6 weeks for the leak to appear the first time.
Called my pool builder and he verified with Raypak that standard PVC coupling was correct for the iron headers.
Raypak came out to inspect and said the heater is functioning fine, however their troubleshooting (or lack of) concerns me.
First the Raypak tech said the PVC is too close the my block wall (The header is ~ 8" from the wall. The coupling that attaches to it connects directly to a 90 going down)
Then the tech looks at the sensors via the front status panel. SW1, SW2, SW3 showed triggered, or high heat or something. The tech then said I must have run the heater with no water running through. I told him I did not, and besides the heater is not supposed to function without sufficient water flow - and he agreed and said the unit is running fine. Then Why the switch errors?
Then the tech said that maybe I need the optional hood vent to direct the heat upwards. He ordered one and it was delivered, but not installed yet.
The lack of a definitive answer has me troubled because once my pool guy replaced the connections - the heater was fine for anther 6 weeks or so - but now I am developing a leak again at the same location.
My concern is those 3 switches that indicated high temp. Should they be able to be reset, to see if they trip again? The first tech never 'reset' anything when he visited.
I asked to have an ASME certified tech inspect my heater - and they said "All our techs are ASME certified" but I'm not sure I believe that based on the lack of troubleshooting.
I paid extra for the ASME Commercial model - and am unsatisfied with the leaking and lack of resolution to this point.
I have Raypak scheduled to come out again - in anticipation of him 'not finding anything wrong with my unit' any suggestions?
Could my chlorine level be causing this?
Thanks in advance.
Devon