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Thread: Prevent before close vs fix during open

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    Question Prevent before close vs fix during open

    I just moved to a new home with my first pool. We installed all new equipment, ran new lines, painted epoxy (replaster for my size was too pricey atm), and ordered a new mesh loop-loc safety cover (solids for my size aren't too practical I hear). After getting proper chemistry levels I haven't had to do much other than figure out the sweet spot on the chlorine feeder. Water has been clean all summer. Now with closing coming up I'm thinking I'll close late and open early (based on 60deg temp). I'm reading that the preferred method to winterize here is to shock and then PolyQuat. I'm guessing that those that don't add algaecide, or run the pump, and open clean have solid covers. Being that I'll have a mesh cover (and quite a few trees around), I'm kind of expecting green water during opening. I wonder, is it worth trying to prevent anything now vs just taking care of it during opening? Is it much more economical to try to prevent vs fix? Do I even have a chance against opening green? Should I try my first season shocking only and see how it goes before trying preventative care?
    60k gal (28'x48'), IG epoxy painted gunite, DE6020, 2hp pump SP2615X20, Hayward 3/4 6060 Booster, Polaris 280, Hayward CL220 Feeder, Raypak 009219 406k BTU NG heater, 2 water features, mesh loop-loc safety cover

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    Texas Splash's Avatar
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    Re: Prevent before close vs fix during open

    Hello and welcome to TFP! Anytime you can do preventive maintenance to help eliminate or reduce the amount of organics in the water, it's a good thing. While the Polyquat is listed in the closing instructions, it's not mandatory to use. For those who chose to add it, they have to let the FC level drop halfway from shock level before adding. For those who chose not to use Polyquat, they simply leave their FC high and close. The key there is ensuring the warm temps are gone for the year so it doesn't try to creep-up over 60 degrees on you after you've done all that hard work. . If you're skeptical about what to do, I would at least be prepared to close when the temps fall for good and take your FC up to the SLAM/Shock level then close (protect equipment) and use your mesh cover. That's a great start and you can always watch the pool's progress over the winter. If it struggled by spring, then next year perhaps get more aggressive. Either ay you chose, we're happy you found us. You can expect others to rely soon as well since pool closing is a hot topic right now.
    Pat (a.k.a. Texas Splash) ~ My Pool: Viking Fiberglass; 17,888 Gal; Waterway Supreme 2-sp/2-hp pump; Hayward Ctg filter; TF-100 w/ Speed Stir
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    Re: Prevent before close vs fix during open

    Thanks. I guess it really comes down to the question of; can you avoid having a green pool with a mesh cover? I'm thinking it will always be green no matter what you throw in it, so why bother spending money on extra chemicals?!
    60k gal (28'x48'), IG epoxy painted gunite, DE6020, 2hp pump SP2615X20, Hayward 3/4 6060 Booster, Polaris 280, Hayward CL220 Feeder, Raypak 009219 406k BTU NG heater, 2 water features, mesh loop-loc safety cover

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    Texas Splash's Avatar
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    Re: Prevent before close vs fix during open

    Actually, the cover is most beneficial simply by helping to reduce the amount of leaves and debris that falls into the pool. That debris then converts to mush and organic material, hence the algae begins. The mesh is a huge help, and once the trees have shed their leaves, many people simply don't use it any more. Sure, some have a hard cover, but either way, the bleach and/or Polyquat if used, is what helps to keep the water algae-free when the temp is below 60. Even if you decide to not use Polyquat, the additional bleach is a minor expense just to boost your FC up to SLAM level. After that, as long as it stays cold (below 60), your water has a much better chance of bouncing-back quicker in the spring.
    Pat (a.k.a. Texas Splash) ~ My Pool: Viking Fiberglass; 17,888 Gal; Waterway Supreme 2-sp/2-hp pump; Hayward Ctg filter; TF-100 w/ Speed Stir
    Vital Links: POOL SCHOOL, RECOMMENDED LEVELS, RECOMMENDED CHEMICALS, Poolmath Calculator, SLAM, Chlorine/CYA CHART.
    If you enjoyed your TFP experience, please consider donating to Support TFP!

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    Re: Prevent before close vs fix during open

    You can always float some pucks over the winter to try to keep some chlorine in the pool. I usually have two floating chlorinators in the pool spaced with some twine going across to keep them in place, each has two pucks which slowly dissolve over the winter. The CYA added won't even come close to what you lose when you bring the water down during closing and they can help keep your PH from rising as fast as well. So for me...late close, raise FC, algaecide, mesh cover, pucks and early open should = clear water.
    20x40 in-ground Bella Blue Pebble Fina pool w/diving board, 1 HP Hayward Superpump, Raypak RP2100 335k BTU NG mV heater, Pentair Quad DE 60 filter, Pentair 261173 multi-port valve, Stenner 45MPHP10 pump w/15 gal tank, Intermatic ET1125CR dual electronic timer, 1.5" lines, two skimmers w/socks, Poolskim, vacuum line, ColorQ Pro 7 kit, TF-100 kit, speedstir, 2 froglogs, Dolphin Discovery Robot. Wine is the answer, what was the question?

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    Re: Prevent before close vs fix during open

    skimmerswimmer, you say "should = clear water", do you open clear with your mesh?
    60k gal (28'x48'), IG epoxy painted gunite, DE6020, 2hp pump SP2615X20, Hayward 3/4 6060 Booster, Polaris 280, Hayward CL220 Feeder, Raypak 009219 406k BTU NG heater, 2 water features, mesh loop-loc safety cover

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    Mod Squad JVTrain's Avatar
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    Re: Prevent before close vs fix during open

    I'm confused what you mean by mesh in this case. Usually when I say "mesh cover" it's a porous cover that allows water to seep through but blocks over 90% of sunlight with a very tight weave. This is the type of cover I have. I opened clean last year with SLAM level FC at closing, no algaecide. Water was clear the only clean up I had to do was remove some of the leaves that had snuck under the cover in spring and fall and some of the leaves that I let go in the pool off the cover. Bottom was also quite dusty/dirty but lots of circulation and a few days running the robot and it was gone. FC was 3 ppm in the spring.
    Joel - TFP Moderator - Minnesota - **Become a TFP Supporter!** Helpful Links: ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry - SLAM Procedure - Chlorine/CYA Chart
    40x20 Pool: 32K Gallons * Vinyl * Bleach Chlorination * Hayward S270T Sand Filter * Pentair SuperFlo 1 HP * Teledyne/Laars Heater * AquaVac Tigershark * TF-100 w/ SpeedStir
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    Re: Prevent before close vs fix during open

    Yea that mesh. That's great to hear that you opened clear with just SLAM. I'll try doing the same this season and see how it goes. Thanks!
    60k gal (28'x48'), IG epoxy painted gunite, DE6020, 2hp pump SP2615X20, Hayward 3/4 6060 Booster, Polaris 280, Hayward CL220 Feeder, Raypak 009219 406k BTU NG heater, 2 water features, mesh loop-loc safety cover

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    Re: Prevent before close vs fix during open

    Quote Originally Posted by dizydizy View Post
    skimmerswimmer, you say "should = clear water", do you open clear with your mesh?
    Yes, I opened early and clear this season and I didn't use algaecide at closing last year either.
    20x40 in-ground Bella Blue Pebble Fina pool w/diving board, 1 HP Hayward Superpump, Raypak RP2100 335k BTU NG mV heater, Pentair Quad DE 60 filter, Pentair 261173 multi-port valve, Stenner 45MPHP10 pump w/15 gal tank, Intermatic ET1125CR dual electronic timer, 1.5" lines, two skimmers w/socks, Poolskim, vacuum line, ColorQ Pro 7 kit, TF-100 kit, speedstir, 2 froglogs, Dolphin Discovery Robot. Wine is the answer, what was the question?

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