Help picking SWG

Shelley N said:
So the Intex is not the "beefiest" SWG in the world, but can it ease the load of the BBBer whose AGP pool is open 4-5 months of the year?
If and when it works properly, which from what I have seen on the boards, it often does not. Also, many of the Intex models are NOT UL approved and need to be unplugged (accordining to THEIR instructions) when using the pool (much like many of their pump/filter models). This fact alone would make Intex a last choice for me!
 
Yes, the Intex SWG works. It has some quirks, a few of which can be very annoying. The largest is that it forgets what it is supposed to be doing if you have a power failure. If power failures are frequent in your area that can be a real problem.
 
My Rainbow 29x just cracked.

I'm thinking about one of these:

http://cgi.ebay.com/CompuPool-Pool-Salt ... dZViewItem

They are $649 on EBay right now.

Is a self install feasible?

Speak now or forever hold your piece ....




str8down said:
Everyone has opinions, some valid, some just regurgitate garbage they were told. With that said, I will say this. I have had 2 SWG's, an AquaRite on the pool at my old house, which worked great, but also cost almost 1k. I recently bought a house that had a pool and no SWG, and having been spoiled by one in the past, I will never do without one again. But I noticed they had actually gone UP in price which amazed me. The technology is not some crazy advanced circuitry, it's very basic. So I refused to pay that this time. I bought the brand "CompuPool" off ebay. I was able to get the CSPSC36, which is rated for 40K gallons (even though my pool is only 23k, I like to oversize), for about $600. It has most of the features that the other "name brands" have, including reverse polarity, to clean the cell. The cell is clear so you can see the buildup, and it disassembles COMPLETELY for cleaning, something most others can't claim. I have had it for about 8 months, and it has been nothing but perfect. I was scared at first by the cost, but I can honestly say it was a great buy.
 
The install isn't too difficult if you are a DIY type. There is some simple PVC plumbing and a straight forward electrical hookup.

That unit is going for an attractive price right now. I haven't heard anything especially bad about it. It isn't one of the top reviewed units, but then it doesn't cost nearly as much as they do.
 
In the northeast, BJs Wholesales clubs have the Intex unit at $175. I have a Goldline/Hayward, so it does seem a bit like a toy. But, for my brother-in-law putting up a new (fairly small) pool, this might be ideal. even if it lasts only a couple of seasons, it is still cost effective and gets him into the "salt pool" arena.
 
Hal3 said:
My Rainbow 29x just cracked.

I'm thinking about one of these:

http://cgi.ebay.com/CompuPool-Pool-Salt ... dZViewItem

They are $649 on EBay right now.

Is a self install feasible?

Speak now or forever hold your piece ....




str8down said:
Everyone has opinions, some valid, some just regurgitate garbage they were told. With that said, I will say this. I have had 2 SWG's, an AquaRite on the pool at my old house, which worked great, but also cost almost 1k. I recently bought a house that had a pool and no SWG, and having been spoiled by one in the past, I will never do without one again. But I noticed they had actually gone UP in price which amazed me. The technology is not some crazy advanced circuitry, it's very basic. So I refused to pay that this time. I bought the brand "CompuPool" off ebay. I was able to get the CSPSC36, which is rated for 40K gallons (even though my pool is only 23k, I like to oversize), for about $600. It has most of the features that the other "name brands" have, including reverse polarity, to clean the cell. The cell is clear so you can see the buildup, and it disassembles COMPLETELY for cleaning, something most others can't claim. I have had it for about 8 months, and it has been nothing but perfect. I was scared at first by the cost, but I can honestly say it was a great buy.

Hi Hal3!
Do you know if the unit should be supplied with 115 or 230 voltage? I have read through the installation manual twice and I can't find that info.
 
Thanks Jason for another speedy answer.
Do you mean that the acctual runtime get's to short then? When I read in the poolschool I've got the impression that you could easily adjust the percentage the unit should give.

Do you have any clue wether this unit runs with 115 or 230 voltage ACDC?
 

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Say with a normally sized unit you would be running the percentage at 50%. Then, assume you need to raise the level just slightly. Changing it by 1 to 51% is a 2% change in the amount of chlorine produced. But if your unit is 2.5x larger than required you would have it set to 20% to produce the same amount of chlorine. Now a change of 1, to 21% is a 5% change in the amount of chlorine produced. Reading that back it sounds confusing, but I can't think of any other way to explain it.
 
It wasn't confusing at all!
Without knowing, I doubt that it's so critical with the settings so that would cause a problem for me.
If someone have the answer to the second question I would be glad.

Jason your knowledge in the pool field is astonishing a very big thank you for sharing it to a newb like myself.
I'm doing the best I can not to ask obvious questions and I read poolschool pretty frequently. If I'm lucky atleast something will stuck in the end :wink:
 
Henry Porter said:
Hi Hal3!
Do you know if the unit should be supplied with 115 or 230 voltage? I have read through the installation manual twice and I can't find that info.
I emailed the supplier on that. He said they can be wired either way. I'm needing 230V.
 
The unit is on the way. I have used PVC before so I'm not too concerned about the install. If anyone has any particular tips or tricks please let me know. If there are any good online references I will check them out as well. Everything I found on the usual sites was trivial.
 
PVC plumbing is very easy, apply primer, apply cement, connect the pipes together, hold tight for 20 seconds, the joint is done. The main things are to measure several times and be sure of your pipe cuts and to figure out where to make your final connection so that you have enough movement in the pipe to be able to get the final connection put together. If you are working in a tight space, adding a union often helps make it possible to get the final connection together.
 
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