Hello, this is my second season with the pool. I have a 25,000 gallon vinyl in ground pool with a salt water generator (I am located on Long Island, NY if you need that info too...aka by New York City). I have used this site for many things. I bought the chemical test kit recommended and do all the test myself. I also use the pool calculator app so my readings are pretty much always where they should be. Last fall, the company that put the pool in installed and covered the pool since we also bought the looploc safety cover. They supposedly put winterization chemicals in but I was not around when they closed it so I don't know if they actually did or not. When the pool was opened in the spring it was extremely green with a lot of leaves in it even though there were no leaves when it was closed. We definitely need water bags to hold the cover down during windy days to prevent the leaf situation, but I was wondering what I should add chemically to try to prevent it from opening green. I have read your articles about how to close the pool but some people say to use the algicide, some don't. I've had people recommend the closing kits but they don't use swgs and the pool store told me to just use liquid shock. So, needless to say I'm not sure which direction to go in. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!!!
New to closing...
- Thread starter JessLevin9
- Start date
Close at water temp less than 60, and open at 60 degrees.
Use normal chemical procedures for closing regardless of SWCG. Take FC up to shock level and clean lights. If you want to use algaecide, let FC lower, and then use polyquat 60 at visible algae level. Polyquat will lower FC, so wait 24-48 hours and return to shock level FC. Close.
Use normal chemical procedures for closing regardless of SWCG. Take FC up to shock level and clean lights. If you want to use algaecide, let FC lower, and then use polyquat 60 at visible algae level. Polyquat will lower FC, so wait 24-48 hours and return to shock level FC. Close.
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,731
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
When closed properly via Pool School - Closing an In Ground Pool, the chances of opening to a green pool are greatly reduced. This is for two reasons: The water temp is such (below 60) that it is difficult for algae to survive; and because the high FC should last much longer in the cooler water temps. The use of an algaecide (Polyquat 60) is simply "insurance" to help prevent algae. You will notice on the forum that some people use the Polyquat 60 every winter, while others never use it. Many find that the higher FC level is sufficient enough in the cold water to last through the winter. But if you do chose to use the Polyquat, make sure you allow the FC to lower about halfway from your initial SLAM level as noted in the instructions. Otherwise, too high on an FC level can break-down the Polyquat and reduce its effectiveness. The fact that you have a cover to help prevent leaves from falling in the pool is great and also reduces the chances of more organic material in the water. Hope this helps.
- Jul 16, 2012
- 7,204
- Pool Size
- 27000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
I'm 2 for 2 on clear water openings in MD with no algaecide. But I also will pop open and check FC in late Fall and early Spring. Adding bleach if necessary and stirring the water with my cover pump.
JPMorgan
Gold Supporter
I have wanted to try the Polyquat 60 just to see if my water is any clearer when opening, but haven't done so yet. It seems simpler to just raise chlorine to SLAM level, then cover the pool..... rather than wait for FC to drift down in order to add the Polyquat, then raise FC again before closing. Will follow tip here to check FC level in late fall and early spring and add chlorine if needed. That should help. Thanks.
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