Hi all - Dan from Orlando. Thanks so much for the site, it has been a lifesaver while firing my pool company (they never told me to fix my broken pressure gauge, when I did my system was at 25PSI because they never mentioned my old filter, after buying a new one, it went to 9!) and then trying to understand the voodoo the pool store was selling. I finally got a TF-50 to test things properly (Rebecca at TFTestkits was terrific), and my numbers are decent:
FC - 7.5
CC - 0
PH - 7.5
CH - 450
CYA - 70 (was measured at 100 by pool store, which was what brought me here and got me off tablets)
TA - 80
I did the overnight FC test, and it went to 7.0FC/0CC, so I think I'm OK on that front.
1) Since I'm using liquid Cl and not a SWG, I assume I should do a couple dilutions to get my CYA to 40 or 50, and my CH a little lower (fill water is 150). Being in FL, I'm leary of a partial drain/fill... figure I'll get a submersible pump for the stairs and a hose at the bottom of the deep end.
2) Does it matter what liquid Cl I use? In my area, the 10% pool chlorinator at Lowes is cheaper than 8.3% bleach at BJs. Or I could use the 12% (?) Cl from the pool store. But...
3) When I add the Cl from Lowes, it doesn't seem to give me the results that PoolCalculator tells me it should - the FC doesn't get as high. Is there an easy way to test the strength of Cl that you buy? If my math is right, I would need to dilute 1ml of 10% Cl in 26 gallons of water to test in ppm? That's not realistic.
4) I read somewhere (caveat emptor) that using bleach instead of pool store Cl raises Total Disolved Solids - is that true?
(Edited to remove some questions after reading the rules - oops!)