Pool Closing Valve Setting Qtns - Please please help

[Pool-owner]

Hi There!

We are trying to close our pool for the first time, did a lot of homework and read many posts here too.

There are still some questions that we are not sure about. Please please spend 2 minutes and help us out!

1) We read about the need to close the main drain valve with a positive sealing valve (like a Jandy valve). We have a Hayward Dial-A-Flo 3-way valve (please see photo) - Is it a positive sealing one for the purposes of locking the air column for the main drain?

2) The second question relates to the first one. We have 2 skimmer lines and 1 main drain line. The MD line shares the same valve (in question 1) with 1 of the skimmer line. (top value in the photo) After we blow the MD line, I believe I would have to lock it by pointing the handle to the opposite port. This setting would close the MD line but OPEN the skimmer line. Since water was lowered to be below the skimmers and no water could get inside the skimmer lines - opening the skimmer line is okay, correct?

In fact it is not really open since it would be sort of locked in between by the MD value and the other skimmer valve, which I would close by again pointing the dialer handle to the opposite direction.

Would the above valve setting be okay for winterization? Please advice.

THANK YOU!

(note valve positions in the photo are just random positions - not the ones mentioned above).

 

[Pool-owner]

Dear Forum Mates:

I just wanted to report that we closed our pool "successfully". The Hayward valve seemed "tight enough" to keep the air column for the main drain. We blew the suction side form one skimmer and move on to the pump for the pressure side, line by line. Everything worked out fine.

The only thing is that the gizzmos that we inherited were too long, sticking out above ground a little bit. So I went back and unplugged them and replaced one with a short gizzmo and other one with a screw-in plug plus a weighted empty chlorine bottle for antifreeze measure.

One thing that is bothering me is that, as I unplugged the gizzmos, while the antifreeze (added to the top of the gizzmos) went down quickly at the far side skimmer. It didn't go down (or very quickly) with the closer skimmer. For a minute, I thought maybe I didn't blow that line completely. Is it possible, as that was the skimmer where I was blowing the air from? But how to explain the antifreeze not going down quickly? Maybe just build-in air pressure. If any experts have an idea, kindly advise so that I won't have to worry about it the whole winter.

Anyway, thank you for all the tips and info posted on this forum. I will start monitoring the vital signs of pool closely next season by ordering one of recommended kit rather than relying on the testing strips and Leslie's.

Thanks again!View attachment 42904

 

[Catanzaro]

We have 2 skimmer lines and 1 main drain line. The MD line shares the same valve (in question 1) with 1 of the skimmer line. (top value in the photo) After we blow the MD line, I believe I would have to lock it by pointing the handle to the opposite port. This setting would close the MD line but OPEN the skimmer line. Since water was lowered to be below the skimmers and no water could get inside the skimmer lines - opening the skimmer line is okay, correct?

What you want to do is close the main drain Jandy valve completely. Then push air through both skimmers and you will see water gushing from the skimmer(s). Do not be overly concerned about which skimmer goes first. Have someone plug the skimmer and then work on the next skimmer. When the 2nd skimmer is plugged, quickly turn the valve to open the main drain and push air through the main drain (I know that then the skimmer line will be open), but you moved water out of there and capped it (so you are fine). Now all the air is being introduced to the MD. Allow it to bubble for about 1 minute and then create the air lock.

Question: Where are your pressurizing the system from? From the fitting at the basket? Or from the skimmer? I do not remember from your other posts.

Also, are you closing the Multi-Port Valve, and working on the suction side? You could do the following:

If you want to work on the returns first, you could just close the skimmer Jandy valve. Have multi-port on recirculate. Once you are done, then open the pump lid and place a rubber plug in the basket. I know that the 2 hp pump is # 10 and #11, while the 1.5 hp pump is # 10 and possibly # 9. You have to figure out which fittings go in as the baskets are smaller, based on size. Found this out when I closed my friend’s pool yesterday.

Then move on to the skimmers and main drain. And yes, opening the skimmer line is okay. Please plug both holes in the skimmer basket as extra insurance.

Question: Based on your description of the plumbing, if you close the skimmer valve next to the basket, you would completely lock the whole suction side? Is that correct? If so, I am wondering why it was plumbed this way. My plumbing looks identical to yours, but the valve only rotates 180 degrees so if MD is off, skimmer is on, and vice versa. The pins are there for safety. I am assuming your skimmer valve can only turn from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m., assuming that the PVC piping going to the basket is the 6 p.m. position.

If possible, please post sequence of events for main drain, skimmers, and then returns.