Ta 25 Ph 8 what to do first?
- Thread starter Edwin45
- Start date
I would adjust pH first. I never pay attention to TA. Others may disagree about the TA. But for sure you need to get that pH down. 8 is just too high.
+1 what pabeader says......I assume you mean TA 250 which will probably be a good idea to adjust after you bring pH into the 7's
Makes sense, as a rising PH is a lot of times contributed to high TA. I am still working on finding my sweet spot.
Sorry, thought it was a pool.
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This is a spa, not a pool. If the TA is truly at 25 ppm, I'd bring the TA up first using baking soda (the pH will not change much at all) and then lower the pH using acid. 40 grams of baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) and 7 grams of dry acid (sodium bisulfate) in your 225 gallon spa should get you to a TA of 50 ppm with a pH of 7.5. See this thread which was the most recent one from the OP prior to this one where the TA was 96 ppm and was getting lowered via the acid/aeration procedure at low pH. So is this situation from overshooting when lowering the TA?
How did the TA get this low? It shouldn't normally drop when using a hypochlorite source of chlorine. It should only drop from some net acidic chemical such as Dichor or non-chlorine shock (MPS) or acid. If you were cumulatively adding around 35 ppm FC over time to build up CYA, then that would lower the TA by about 12 ppm, but that would have the TA go from 50 to around 40 ppm, not 25.
The use of 50 ppm borates should help reduce the rate of pH rise, but boric acid or sodium tetraborate (borax) can be hard to obtain in Europe (the OP noted it was not available in the Netherlands). [EDIT] See this post where apparently one can get boric acid in the Netherlands. [END-EDIT]
How did the TA get this low? It shouldn't normally drop when using a hypochlorite source of chlorine. It should only drop from some net acidic chemical such as Dichor or non-chlorine shock (MPS) or acid. If you were cumulatively adding around 35 ppm FC over time to build up CYA, then that would lower the TA by about 12 ppm, but that would have the TA go from 50 to around 40 ppm, not 25.
The use of 50 ppm borates should help reduce the rate of pH rise, but boric acid or sodium tetraborate (borax) can be hard to obtain in Europe (the OP noted it was not available in the Netherlands). [EDIT] See this post where apparently one can get boric acid in the Netherlands. [END-EDIT]
edwin2014
Boric acid is indeed not a problem, but the testing strips for testing boric acid is a problem.
I don,t use chemicals if i cannot test it.
Boric acid is indeed not a problem, but the testing strips for testing boric acid is a problem.
I don,t use chemicals if i cannot test it.
As far as I know you add this one time only and via poolmath you would be able to calculate the exact amount needed (as far as I understood). So yes, bit of blind trust in tfp poolmath.
Yes, you really don't need to test the borates. Just add the proper amount after each refill. It doesn't break down so should last through until the next water change and its exact level isn't important. You just want enough for decent pH buffering and 50 ppm is a good amount, but even 30 ppm will help and 70 ppm is not dangerous.
Now for a pool that's a different matter where testing is important because you generally don't replace all the water so need to know how much got diluted so one can bring it back up, usually once a season.
Now for a pool that's a different matter where testing is important because you generally don't replace all the water so need to know how much got diluted so one can bring it back up, usually once a season.
Chemgeek And Edwin thx.
The water in my spa now is 5 weeks old.
can i add it now? or do i wait till new refill??
The water in my spa now is 5 weeks old.
can i add it now? or do i wait till new refill??
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