Order of operations?

[tdp]

My (new in June 2015) pool has been crystal clear all summer, but is now cloudy. I have ordered the TF-100 kit, but it's not here yet so I had my water tested at the pool store. Previous to finding this site, I would have my water tested there and add what they told me to. So far, have only had to add CYA once and muriatic acid several times.

TC 2
CC 2
CYA 60
TA 70
pH 7.8

I have a SWG so know that the CYA is a bit low here. Seems I also need to raise the TA. I want to shock the pool (which I've never done before).
In what order should I do these things? Should I shut off the SWG before shock?

Thanks.

PS>I've never backwashed the filter yet; it's 2 lbs. above its "new" pressure. Should I do that? If so, where in the order of the other things that need doing?

 

[Richard320]

You leave the TA alone. 70 is fine for a salt water pool.

You adjust pH to 7.2 first. Shut off the SWG. Raise FC to shock level for your CYA, which is 24. Yes, 24. And for the next few days, you test and add more bleach to keep it at 24 until you've killed everything. You'll also be brushing every inch of the pool and scrubbing behind lights and under ladder rungs and anywhere else you can think of.

It's all spelled out in Pool School - SLAM - Shock Level And Maintain
Pay close attention to the prerequisites. You won't be able to do it effectively without a proper test kit.

 

[Texas Splash]

Richard has great advise. But if you are not able to test FC at the 24 level, and since you already have the TF-100 on order (great choice by the way), all you need to do right now is stabilize things until your kit arrives so you can SLAM via Pool School - SLAM - Shock Level And Maintain. So for now, simply add one gallon of regular bleach to the pool each day - generic is fine. If you can validate pH with a simple test, then adjust it down to 7.2. Leave TA where it is for now. It can go outside the typical levels. The gallon of bleach is just to hold you over for now. Don't add stabilizer yet until after the SLAM is done, then adjust up to 70-80.
When you get your TF-100, post a full set of results before starting the SLAM so we can validate you are ready. Oh, and for the filter, typically it gets backwashed when the pressure is 20-25% above the baseline (clean) pressure.

- - - Updated - - -

For safety - always separate adding bleach and acid by at least 30 min with the pump running. As noted above, if you can test FC up to 24, then certainly start your SLAM. If you don't have the FAS-DPD portion to test that high, just do the gallon per day until your TF-100 arrives.

 

[tdp]

Okay, my TF-100 kit finally arrived! Here's what I did in the meantime:

First, Adjusted pH to 7.2 (by strip test)
Last three days, added 1-121 oz container 8% bleach after dark each day

Here are the results of my tests done a few minutes ago (I'm sure the novelty will wear off, but it was fun! Like an adult chemistry set!)

FC 11
CC 1.5 (at 10 PM)
Ca 300
TA 100? (turned sorta gray at 90, red at 100, you're looking for the red, right?)
CYA 60
pH between 7.5-7.8 (the pH and CYA tests seem pretty %#^€ subjective!!)
salt 3000

So am I ready to SLAM? I believe the chart says I need to get FC to 24 with a CYA of 60.

Thanks, tdp

Richard has great advise. But if you are not able to test FC at the 24 level, and since you already have the TF-100 on order (great choice by the way), all you need to do right now is stabilize things until your kit arrives so you can SLAM via Pool School - SLAM - Shock Level And Maintain. So for now, simply add one gallon of regular bleach to the pool each day - generic is fine. If you can validate pH with a simple test, then adjust it down to 7.2. Leave TA where it is for now. It can go outside the typical levels. The gallon of bleach is just to hold you over for now. Don't add stabilizer yet until after the SLAM is done, then adjust up to 70-80.
When you get your TF-100, post a full set of results before starting the SLAM so we can validate you are ready. Oh, and for the filter, typically it gets backwashed when the pressure is 20-25% above the baseline (clean) pressure.

- - - Updated - - -

For safety - always separate adding bleach and acid by at least 30 min with the pump running. As noted above, if you can test FC up to 24, then certainly start your SLAM. If you don't have the FAS-DPD portion to test that high, just do the gallon per day until your TF-100 arrives.

 

[Texas Splash]

Good work! You've been reading. Since your FC is over 10 right now, your pH reading may be slightly off (false high reading). That happens when it's over 10. You can either let the FC come down to 9 or so and confirm the pH is between 7.2-7.4 then start your SLAM, or just go for it now. Once you start the SLAM at an FC of 24, there's no more pH testing until the SLAM is done. Make sure the SWG if off during the SLAM. No need to exhaust the cells. Just use the bleach. Good luck and let us know if you have any more questions.

 

[tdp]

OK, so I SLAMed. i also backwashed my filter. The people who installed my pool said I should wait to clean filter until it was 50% above its "clean" pressure; boy, was that wrong. I think poor circulation may have contributed to getting the algae in the first place! With clean filter, and a successful SLAM, pool looks great now.

Next questions:

-How far down does the chlorine (FC) have to fall until I can swim?
-I assume I need to wait for the chlorine to fall to swim levels to adjust the TA, pH and CYA?
-If so, what order do I adjust those in?

Thanks for all of your help!

 

[pabeader]

FC needs only to be at or below SLAM level to be safe.

ph has to wait til FC is below 10.
CYA can be tested and adjusted at any time.
TA is not something you need to worry about too much. Since you have a SWG pH will tend to rise. As you use muriatic acid to adjust that TA will drop also.

- - - Updated - - -

Just to be sure: Did you pass all 3 criteria before stopping the SLAM? Is the water super clear? I like the quarter teat for that.

 

[tdp]

Yes, I passed the Overnight FC test and the <1 CC test. Water was not crystal clear at first, but is now that the filter has had a chance to work.

It's really okay to swim if the FC is above 10?

 

[pabeader]

Yepper! The CYA is buffering the chlorine so it's effectively much lower than the testing value.

The usual response is something like: FC at or under SLAM level, pH within 7.2 to 7.8 range, clearly see bottom.

Cannonball!!


ps. I have seen it suggested that you might not want to use the fancy, new suit.

 

[domct203]

Yes, I passed the Overnight FC test and the <1 CC test. Water was not crystal clear at first, but is now that the filter has had a chance to work.

It's really okay to swim if the FC is above 10?

Welcome to the forum.

Your CC should be 0.5ppm or less at the end of the SLAM, not <1ppm.

Was there any visible algae in the pool at all?

Yes, with a CYA of 60ppm it is safe to swim at a FC above 10ppm, as long as it is less than your shock level and you can clearly see the bottom in the deep end.

For future reference you should backwash when the filter pressure rises about 15-20% over clean pressure. Don't backwash at less than a 15% rise, a slightly dirty sand filter actually filters better than a squeaky clean one.

Dom

 

[tdp]

There was a fuzzy cloudiness in the deep end. I would say it was algae, because after the SLAM I had brownish-greenish sediment on the bottom of the pool.


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