Electrical wiring question coming out of house

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michael2938

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Sep 16, 2015
5
Cincinnati
I just put in a 24ft pool and need to run the electrical to the pump. The pump has a twist lock plug, so I will be putting a twist lock recepticle near the pump. I am going to run 12-2 UF-B w/ ground wiring from a dedicated 20amp GFCI breaker in the house to the twist lock outlet. No need for any other lighting or electrical needs.

The breaker box in the house is just on the other side of the foundation in the basement which is maybe 10-15 feet from the pump. I will drill a hole in the foundation to run the wiring out and then underground to the pump outlet box. My question is what should I do on the house where the hole is in the foundation? How do I properly cover the wiring as it comes through the foundation and then heads underground? I know I can get some conduit to cover as it runs down the house... but what goes on the house/foundation itself where it comes out?

Thanks
 
Welcome to TFP!

You run conduit through the wall and then a pull or access elbow or a conduit body to make the 90 degree turn down the wall.

Be aware that in order to meet code you are required to have a 120V outlet in the pool area and the pool and equipment need to be bonded IAW NEC 680.26.
 
JohnT said:
You run conduit through the wall and then a pull or access elbow or a conduit body to make the 90 degree turn down the wall.

Be aware that in order to meet code you are required to have a 120V outlet in the pool area and the pool and equipment need to be bonded IAW NEC 680.26.
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I didn't even think to run conduit through the wall itself since with it being solid cement I didn't think it would be necessary. So it's just one of those metal elbows to turn down the wall and then a plate/covering of some kind on the outside wall too?

Well I'll have the twist lock outlet by the pump which should have me covered there. The bonding though... hmm... I wasn't planning to do that as I have never heard of it until I started reading this forum. I might save that one for the spring once it warms up again.

Thanks,
Mike
 
michael2938 said:
I didn't even think to run conduit through the wall itself since with it being solid cement I didn't think it would be necessary. So it's just one of those metal elbows to turn down the wall and then a plate/covering of some kind on the outside wall too?
Click to expand...

It's just a standard pull-elbow or a conduit box that has a covered compartment. Do yourself a favor and use the PVC conduit. Easier for a DIYer to work with, doesn't require bonding, can be buried and it won't rust.

michael2938 said:
Well I'll have the twist lock outlet by the pump which should have me covered there.
Click to expand...

No, the twist-lock won't cover the outlet requirement. Code requires a standard GFCI 120V outlet no less than 10ft and no more than 20ft from the inside wall of the pool unless the pool is within 10ft of the house. Then the outlet must be no less than 5ft from the inside wall.
 
JohnT said:
No, the twist-lock won't cover the outlet requirement. Code requires a standard GFCI 120V outlet no less than 10ft and no more than 20ft from the inside wall of the pool unless the pool is within 10ft of the house. Then the outlet must be no less than 5ft from the inside wall.
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I don't understand -- why would code require an outlet I won't even use? Do you know the purpose behind this requirement? I do have a GFCI 120V outlet on my house by my back door, but it's more than 10ft from the pool. Seems like a waste to add another one in the middle of my yard that I wouldn't even use.

Thanks,
Mike
 
ozdiver said:
This is the sort of thing you are looking for..
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Cantex-1-2-in-Type-LB-Conduit-Body-R5133663/202043487

It allows you to set the conduit and gives access to pull the wires. Then you close it up.
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ah, ok that makes sense. Do you know how it attaches to the house? I'm guessing there is a hole or two for screws inside there to keep it in place? I'll probably pick that up tonight on the way home, I think that's the last missing piece I have before I run all the wiring.
 
The code requirements is for the benefit of contractors or DIYers down the track.
Just like an outside A/C unit must have a disconnect and a GFCI 120V outlet close at hand so anyone working on the unit will be safe and not have to run long extension cords.

For the pool scenario, they are making sure noone has to run long extension leads around the pool.

Your twist lock is 230V for the pump isn't it.
Most installations would hardwire the pump to it's breaker/relay in the load center/panel.

There is a bonding wire surrounding your pool and returning to your equipment pad.
Bonding causes everything conductive in and around the pool to be at the same electrical potential.
So your pump should have a lug on it for this wire to connect to.
This is not the same as electrical grounding.
 

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michael2938 said:
I don't understand -- why would code require an outlet I won't even use? Do you know the purpose behind this requirement? I do have a GFCI 120V outlet on my house by my back door, but it's more than 10ft from the pool. Seems like a waste to add another one in the middle of my yard that I wouldn't even use.

Thanks,
Mike
Click to expand...

It's there to keep people from using extension cords near the pool. Code also requires a bond wire at the pump, even if your pump doesn't have a bond lug. That's in case the pump is ever replaced with one that requires bonding. Pool wiring isn't simple.
 
Reason is electricity and water don't mix!!!
You cant see it in the picture but the heater the pump and the timer all have a bare copper grd wire going to a grd rod. . Max length of cord for a pool pump is 3 ft. also the outlet at the pool needs to be a Ground Fault. The box right above the cord plug in is the on/off switch for the pool pump also the box on the heater is the on/off switch for the heater.
 
Thanks for all the help! This was exactly what I needed to know. I think my convenience outlet is very close to 20 ft from the pool on one side, but definitely around 50ft from the pump. I'm not going to put in another one of those until next summer when I extend my current deck to reach the pool. I'll make sure that requirement is covered then.

The pump with twist lock is not 230V, it is 115V. This pool did not originally have any bonding wire on or around it, but that's something I'll consider adding in the Spring as well. I was given this pool from a friend and have installed it myself just as she had it (originally installed by a pool company). My goal is to just get it all up and running and then close it down for the winter so it will be easy to open in Spring.

-Mike
 
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