Another newbie with a green pool!

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Gobananas15

0
Aug 3, 2015
17
Plano, Texas
Ok, I have been lurking for awhile and trying to really learn TFP. But I finally need to post because I am not getting anywhere with my pool now!

Back story:
We purchased our house with pool a little over a year ago. Being completely pool "dumb" (for lack of a better word :D), we did not ask or obtain any info on the pool from the previous owners. The basics that I have pulled together: it is an in ground pool with a mostly rectangle shape. Concrete feeling sides and bottom (sorry don't know what that material is??), two skimmers, one main drain, and 3 or 4 return jets. DE grid filter in which all labels are fried by the sun and completely unreadable, except I was finally able to make out the word "Nautilus" and google led me to Pentair. Avg depth I am not sure since we haven't swam in awhile but judging by the slope in the middle somewhere around 4.5ft??

We had a relatively painless year with a clear pool, maintained by two chlorine puck floaters and the occasional "bag of shock", and one full filter grid cleaning with my father's help (who does not own a pool but can figure just about anything out).

Fast forward a little to this summer, we were out of town multiple times after a few good weeks of clear pool swimming (thankfully my toddlers 2nd birthday party was before all this started :)). Chlorine floaters were empty, pool turned green. Started reading up on TFP. Read about test kits but got confused and never ordered one. Treated the first time with combo of finishing all the "bags of shock" I had on hand and a few gallons of bleach. Got to the cloudy blue state but then left town again and not able to maintain. Pool turned green again. Figured the filter needed a good cleaning again to help get all the dead stuff out. This time, dear husband cleaned everything. Being pregnant makes it a difficult task! Anyways, cleaned the big filter and all the other cleanable parts of the system. Replaced the air release valve thing because it was leaking continuously and no good per the "pool store guy" (I know, I am really technical, but hey I am still learning!). Thought everything went well until everything got put back together and I was not present to measure grid size to calculate the right amt of DE. So estimated based on what we added the first time. System running, all good while we cleaned up then noticed the pressure was up to 30. Sniffed around and found the small filter for the cleaner was completely full and clogged with DE, which led me to realized DE was spread all over the bottom of the pool as well (noted by white clouds when I sweep the green swamp and also a layer visible on the top step every time I go back out and look). I cleaned the small filter again, turned that one off and added some more DE that went to the right place this time. Now I am faced with two problems. A green swamp and all the DE leftover in the pool. Have a good understanding that pool stores and products are basically evil, and I am trying to convince my hubby of the TFP way while also trying to learn it, which is proving kind of hard. He went and bought a huge bucket of "shock" yesterday and told the pool store what the pool looks like. They suggested that we should probably just drain half the pool and refill because sometimes the water just doesn't turn back. What?? Anyways. I have a cheap taylor kit from leslie's and these were my results this morning:

FC 0
TC 0
CC 0
Ph 8.2+ (max reading)
Acid demand test only 2 drops to get to 7.5, 3 to get 7.2
TA 50

Was going to get a pool store test done just to compare and get a cya level. In August I took a sample and the CYA was 40. I know they are not always accurate but that is all I have to go by at the current moment. Now to unleash my questions!

- Am I safe to assume the CYA is about the same from the pool store test last month? Have not used any more pucks, and maybe 3 or 4 last remaining shock bags that I had since then.
- What do I attempt to fix first, ph or TA?
- I know I need to SLAM, but I work the next 2 days 12 hour shifts and it is honestly hard to come home and deal with the pool! I also know I need a good test kit. So planning to wait to the weekend to start anything, but is that ok to keep leaving the pool green? Should I do anything in the meantime? I only have 2 gal of bleach right now. Should I try to blind slam? Here is where I feel lost! I know the process is very tedious at the beginning and I worry that I just won't have good time to properly do everything I need to. That stupid bucket of "shock" in the garage is pulling me the other direction. Ahh!

p.s. It has also been raining all day today, is that going to affect any pool value?
 
Hello Gobananas15, and Welcome to TFP, :wave:

Yes you need to use MA (Muriatic Acid) pour the proper amount in front of the return with the pump running, to lower your pH to 7.2ppm per the amount given for your pool size per our PoolMath calculator Prior to doing a SLAM on your pool. http://www.troublefreepool.com/calc.html and please be careful not to get it on your skin and do not breath the fumes or allow the fumes to get in your eyes wear either goggles, or sunglasses.

Also I suspect with the pucks, and powdered shocks that your CYA is through the roof high, (we only recommend using regular liquid bleach or liquid shock (Sodium Hypochlorite to prevent this issue). If the CYA level is as high as I suspect it is, that is going to make it difficult to try to Slam http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/125-slam-shock-level-and-maintain-shockingl, so getting an appropriate test kit, checking the level yourself to see where exactly it is the only way to find out for sure.

(You are welcome to get a pool store CYA test for comparison reasons, but we don't put a lot of faith in the pool store testing because we've seen them be wrong time and time again, which only makes your issues worse).

The test kit will be, hands down, the best investment you can make for your pool, and will be a must for your SLAM as none of the others come close to the accuracy or being able to register the higher chlorine levels that will be needed to kill out the algae.

We only recommend 2 kits here at TFP. The 1st, and the best choice, In my opinion, is the TF-100 which is available at: http://tftestkits.net/TF-100-Test-Kit-p4.html

The XL option is recommended when a SLAM is getting ready to be started, so you don't run out of reagents as quickly. Here is the link for the XL option which if you decide you want to get now will need to be ordered in addition to the Test Kit above. - http://tftestkits.net/XL-Option-p62.html

or

The Taylor K-2006 (which can be purchased at many places on line, and some of the local pool stores may also carry them). The Taylor K2006 has less reagents/solutions in it, and for a SLAM you will most likely need to order more of specific reagents, (especially the chlorine tests), early on in the process.


Here's a few helpful links that you can look over when you get a chance.

http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/
http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/128-chlorine-cya-chart-slam-shock

http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/123-abc-of-pool-water-chemistry

The rain isn't going to matter, it's just free water. For the sake of your pool, please try your best to stay out of the bucket in the garage LOL. :)

If you want to go ahead and lower your pH to 7.2 as pH readings with a chlorine level above 10ppm are Not accurate, so we recommend you adjust prior to beginning the SLAM.

Once you get your pH adjusted merely add a gallon of liquid bleach Daily (**** Please be sure to wait at least 30 mins after adding MA above to lower the pH before adding the chlorine), until the proper test kit arrives to prevent things from getting any worse, and we will go from there.

Again welcome to TFP, once you get your recommended kit in we can really get started in helping you get the algae killed out.
 
pabeader said:
If for some reason you decide to get the K-2006 make sure it's the C option. But as CrackerJack says, the TF-100 with XL option is going to serve you better in the long and short run.
Click to expand...

Definitely would recommend the TF-100 with the XL-Option. Do not forget the Speed Stir. It is what makes testing so much fun. The children watch and love it. Maybe this will help their grades in Chemistry (TBD).

Q: What type of shock have you been throwing in? You have some extra bags. Please provide name and ingredients.

Even though the pool store may be close on their testing, it just can not be trusted. Each time I help out a friend and they do not believe me, I send them to multiple pool stores. They come back and usually order their own test kit. The words "How can I trust them anymore" almost is always the first thing that comes out of their mouth.

The rain should have very little effect on water chemistry. Once you have your test results, please post them in this order:

TC
FC
CC
TA
CH
CYA

We can then go from there and help you clear up your pool. :)
 
Last edited:
HUGS!!!!!!!!! Pregnant and a green pool????? NOT a good combo! Throw in a husband listening to the pool store-------poor you!

A test kit is a must. Is the draw back of a test kit the cost? Just think of how much he paid for that shock and how it did not work.........Point out to hubby how much "bleach" costs and how much "shock" costs. Show him some of the thread of green to clear and tell him that YOU can do that!

Kim
 
My husband didn't believe me either so he is banned from any and all pool maintenance :) I take care of it all and use my son for brushing, skimming etc...

If I am at work, I tell my husband to pour in a certain amount of bleach using my pre-marked measuring cup lol It can be done as I previously had an above ground pool that was pure swamp mess and I made it crystal clear :)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Wow sorry for abandoning everyone!! Thanks for all the responses so far! Back to update and almost ready to attack the pool! Went with the TF 100 xl test kit it should arrive tomorrow (curse the $12 shipping! ?). In the mean time we have been doing some bleach every day and sweeping. Husband has even been doing bleach now! He did do some of the shock but now he has been doing bleach. We are now at the cloudy blue stage and when sweeping it's just white/gray clouds which I believe to be a good thing??

How do I know when to backwash? (sorry that is probably a silly question. Before making my first post I had only just realized I am supposed to add de after back washing, doh! ?)
Also, when will the water start to clear up? I realize once I test the water I probably have quite a bit more bleach in the future but just curious of the chain of events from here. Maybe I should brush up on the pool school articles that I printed ha ha
 
Once you get your test kit. It's test, add, wait, test, add, wait repeat until water is crystal clear. Backwash when the filter pressure rises 20-25% of clean pressure. Replenish DE with 80% of rated amount.
Make sure you run the pump/filter 24/7 during the whole SLAM.

We are going to need pictures, lots of them, to know for sure what is going on. Especially of stairs or ladders.
 

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Please post test results once you receive your kit. If your CYA is low (under 60), then use a 10 ml. sample for the SLAM process. If you find that you are using too much reagents, then you could use the 5 ml. sample (multiply by 1) only until you see your FC not drop consistently, then go back to the 10 ml. testing (especially for the overnight). I would use no more then an 8 hour period for the overnight test. Considering you have the XL option, I do not believe you will run out of reagents. You only need to test for FC and CC during the SLAM, once you verify the accuracy of your CYA and do the initial testing. Of course, PH also has to be lowered. CH and TA can be done after the SLAM. Please keep us posted.
 
Hello Goba,

For some reason your Signature Information is not following you from the 1st comment to now? Please go to the right hand top of your screen and click Settings then once on that screen select EDIT SIGNATURE under the bold My Settings tab.

Please add in your pool Volume which will be necessary to accurate calculate the amount of chlorine and other chemicals needed to SLAM, balance and maintain your pool, (If you need help list the measurements Length, width, depth, etc. and we can help. Add to Signature if it's an Inground, or Above Ground, is there an attached spa, do you have a DE, sand, or cartridge filter-the model of the filter. Also include if you have a SWG, a Heater, any other chlorinating device, timers, etc. (I know you have some of that in the 1st comment but it for some reason didn't remain in your Signature, so please try to include it all again.

Any info like that that you can include in your Signature Information will better help us to help you get your pool cleaned of algae, and looking beautiful, and prevent you from having a lot of repetitive questions because we will have the info there at a glance. :).

Oh and also taking pictures of your pool, the equipment, etc. can often prove to be very helpful in locating additional hiding spots for algae, PLUS lol we here at TFP like looking at pictures too. :)

A lot of people like to use Photobucket to import their pics, just add your pics there, and then just copy and paste your IMG address right into your comment. :)

I hope this helps, and have a wonderful day.
 
Here I am with another update (and hope my signature works... I double checked everything was correct not sure why it's not showing up!). Test kit finally arrived at the end of the week. I worked over the weekend. Hubby turned the pump off on Sunday because it has been running non stop and thought it could use a break. Yesterday I was home and looked out to the back and nearly had a heart attack....I saw some leaves floating around and I looked past them and realized I could see the bottom of the pool!!! I guess all the de that had gotten in the pool was a just continuously circulating and clouding the water and finally had a chance to settle on the bottom. Like, lots of it. Spotted a few small patches of algae and hubby swept a little and we noted a little bit of green so def still need to treat the pool but wondering if the algae was not as bad as suspected. Anyways, we attempted vacuuming via the skimmer. Worked great for the first few minutes until we realized cloudy, sedimenty water was shooting back out the jets!! So now I think we have another problem on our hands related to our grids �� every now and then it sounded like something was clinking inside the filter so we are hoping maybe something is not set properly inside. Or worst case scenario we have a hole somewhere and have to replace them. Now the dilemma is how do I prevent the pool from turning green again until we can fully address the filter? We had been adding some bleach daily while waiting for the test kit and whatever we had been doing seems to be keeping things at bay. But obviously I won't be touching the filter myself and between his and my weird work schedules it could be a few days before we can open up and assess. Should we leave filter off in the meantime? Can I still bleach while the filter is off (not slam but like we were doing before the test kit arrived)?
 
It is time to SLAM. In order for us to help, you will need to do the following:

1) Turn filter and pump back again (please make sure the multi-port is on filter). The pumps are designed to run all the time.
2) Please take a water sample after the water has mixed for about 1 hour and post all the results. There are video's you can watch that will assist you. Assuming you purchased the TF-100.

https://www.youtube.com/user/TF100TestKit

Please read over the SLAM details until you become comfortable and familiar with the process.

Pool School - SLAM - Shock Level And Maintain

Now, it is time to stock up on bleach (Wal-Mart or Target generic 8.25% no scent bleach is fine). Also, you must lower your PH to 7.2 before starting the SLAM process. Thank you.
 
You can run the filter for now. It will be good for mixing the water/bleach. It might not "filter" but it will keep the algae monster at bay until you have time to get it fixed.

We have one member using a sub pump to move his water until his equipment is there and working.

Kim
 
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