Super chorline, TA blue to gold????????

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PoolDad2

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Jun 24, 2007
79
Eastern NC
I tried to search but didn't find anything. I help out my next door neighbor. They are grandparents and have the pool for the grandkids. He has a 30k inground pool with VL and DE filter.

The thing is when I test for chlorine, the pink doesn't go away when I add R-0871. I went up to 40 drops and it was still pink. He hasn't added any bleach in two days and only has the sticks in the skimmer.

His CYA is at 100.

PH is at 7.6

I'm using a Taylor K-2006 test kit.

Also what is odd is when I test for TA the color goes from green to blue and then turns gold at 120 drops of R-009. It doesn't go clear.

This is baffling me. I do notice that there seems to be a yellow algae on the bottom and steps of the pool. Not a lot but you can see it. I'm guessing mustard algae? Could it be so contaminated with this algae that it is messing with the tests?

Any help would be appreciated. They are both in their 80's and I try to help out as much as I can. They are awesome neighbors.
 
What sample size are you using for chlorine, 25mL or 10mL?

Also, the TA test doesn't finish clear. It's a green-red transition. Did you add the R-0007 drops before the indicator to dechlorinate? If so, you may need to add more than the recommended amount if the FC is very high.


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Sorry, not sure where my head was, yes it supposed to finish red but turned blue to a very light gold. I followed the directions twice and got the same results. Also I tried the 10ml as well as the 25ml for chlorine and got the same results.

Yes, added the R-0007 before the indicator.

I thought maybe my chemicals were old and bad but when I tested my pool it all turned out normal as it always does.
 
Well, 40 drops on a 10mL sample FC test is only 20ppm. That's not even SLAM levels for some people. If you're worried about wasting reagent, you can use a 5mL water sample and get a 1ppm/drop resolution but it's not terrible accurate. It should give you a ball park FC number.

As for the TA test, there are no listed metal interferences. But if you suspect a very high FC, you could always add an additional drop or two of the R-0007 thiosulfate reagent to help dechlorinate the sample better. That's the only interference that seems likely based on the possibly high FC.


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This thread TA test turns blue not red encountered the same situation as you - blue to yellow due to high chlorine. Sometimes you can add a couple more drops of the R-0007 to neutralize the chlorine to stay green-red. In the end, the drop-count of the color change(s) is what is most important, even if the bleach skewed the original colors from green to red to the modified blue to yellow.

- - - Updated - - -

Oops, Matt was already replying back as well about the TA. :)
 
OK, thanks for the clarification. What gets me is how can his FC be so high when he hasn't added any in two days. I would think that it wouldn't be that high.

Also, if it is that high, then why do I see a yellow type algae on the bottom and steps?

I guess I just need to go over there and brush down his pool for him and see what the reading is again tomorrow.

Again, thanks for all the help. :)
 
You're reporting a CYA at 100ppm but that's the limit of the test. It's probably a lot higher than that in which case the FC/CYA ratio might be too low. As well, his chlorine may be high now but if they are not regularly checking their pool, then the FC could have easily gotten too low and algae has a foothold now. Once an algae bloom starts, especially mustard algae, you need a sustained SLAM to destroy it.


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If the yellow spots are not stains and are algae, then the most likely conclusion is there is not enough FC for his CYA level. When the CYA is 100 it could very well be above 100 as most CYA tests max out at 100.

To get rid of mustard algae with a CYA of 100 the FC needs to be above 50 ppm. Don't go trying to get rid of it yet, you must determine it is mustard algae before preceding and with that high of CYA it is almost useless to try to get rid of it.
 
It is hard to help him for the most part since I can't get over there every day. He does have a small leak and has to add water at least once a week. But with all the rain we have been getting he hasn't had too. All the sticks he has in the skimmers, he has two, I bet that is what has gotten his CYA so high since they add it, correct?

Next step, I guess is to drain the pool down and add water back to get the CYA down. Then go from there. The algae isn't really bad, but I do see spots here and there. He installed a new liner this past spring and it is a dark liner compared to what they had so it is harder to see what is on the bottom.

Thanks again. I'm going to walk over and let him know what I found out.
 

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PoolDad2 said:
... He hasn't added any bleach in two days and only has the sticks in the skimmer.
Click to expand...

PoolDad2 said:
OK, thanks for the clarification. What gets me is how can his FC be so high when he hasn't added any in two days. I would think that it wouldn't be that high.
Click to expand...

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the sticks that are kept in the skimmer ARE Chlorine. He is in fact adding Chlorine (and CYA which is also in those sticks) on a continuous basis, but since there's so much CYA already in the pool, it makes even the high level of chlorine, ineffective. Time to find out what the actual CYA level is by testing the water yourself with one of the recommended test kits (NOT the pool store). Then you will likely have to drain some amount, and refill with fresh water.

Stay away from the pool store. We've all gone through that same painful lesson, but if you follow the recommendations made here, you will make that pool crystal clear at a fraction of the cost of using pool store potions, which are usually just snake oil.

Good luck.
 
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