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Thread: Another "low flow" issue

  1. Back To Top    #1

    Another "low flow" issue

    I have an Aquapure 1400 on my 30,000 gal pebble-tec pool. Recently, I've been having some "low flow" issues. I've been through many of the threads and posts and wanted some additional input please. I've done a lot of troubleshooting and am almost at my wits end.

    Recently, when the problem started, I tried cleaning my sensor and cleaned the DE tank and grids. That didn't help. My system was also showing high salt (confirmed by Taylor test kit) so I emptied some water and over the last week have slowly brought it up to 2800 so far. Also recharged conditioner and cell-saver agent. I'm aiming for 3000. I also purchased and installed a new sensor (new type with the little box in line) which is installed into the 3rd port of the cell. The cell was new one year ago and has been cleaned out.

    All started up fine, showed flow with no problem. Now, a week has gone by, and yesterday I came home to "no flow." No other error codes. I turned the system off and on and it worked, flow showed up. Came home today, again to "no flow." Turned off, back on, and now showing flow.

    I'm not sure what else to do to troubleshoot this. My pool flow seems good - there's a waterfall and pool sweep that are both chugging away. I have a 1 1/2 hp motor that has always done fine - I can't imaging I need more flow than that provides to show up.

    Please offer ideas and suggestions.
    Thanks,
    Russ

    Additional info: I opened the Aquapure and did the voltage testing troubleshooting per the manual. All tests on the front and back boards showed normal. I can't believe it's another faulty sensor - that would be too coincidental. What else could be causing this?
    30,000 gallon pebble-tec in-ground pool. Jandy Aquapure 1400 salt system. 1.5 hp fixed speed pump. IAqualink integrated system- pump, spa, SWG, lights. Kreepy Krauly. Rooftop Solar heater (on pool pump). Taylor K2006 test kit. SoCal, near Los Angeles - sunny and hot. Local well water, very hard.

  2. Back To Top    #2

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    Re: Another "low flow" issue

    Did you check the pump impeller for debris?

  3. Back To Top    #3

    Re: Another "low flow" issue

    Do you have it on the correct program A or B?

    If the software is 02 11 0A 10, then you need program A, otherwise, you need program B. The software number is on the CPU or you press the "Salinity", the "Up arrow" and the "Down arrow" simultaneously to get the revision to show on the screen.

  4. Back To Top    #4

    Re: Another "low flow" issue

    Thanks for the responses.

    - I opened the chamber for the secondary basket. It's cleaned. I stuck my fingers in towards the impeller and don't feel any debris. Is there another way to check it without disassembling the entire unit?

    -I verified that I have older software than 02 11 0A 10 and have it set to program B.

    Another thread mentions a "reset button" for the flow sensor on the daughterboard. This new sensor with the module in-line does not use the daughterboard. Is there any reset button in this set-up?
    30,000 gallon pebble-tec in-ground pool. Jandy Aquapure 1400 salt system. 1.5 hp fixed speed pump. IAqualink integrated system- pump, spa, SWG, lights. Kreepy Krauly. Rooftop Solar heater (on pool pump). Taylor K2006 test kit. SoCal, near Los Angeles - sunny and hot. Local well water, very hard.

  5. Back To Top    #5

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    Re: Another "low flow" issue

    Is all of the return water flowing through the cell or does it branch off and go to the waterfall or any other feature before going through the cell?

    There is not a reset button on this sensor.
    Last edited by ping; 09-09-2015 at 01:09 PM. Reason: Added reset button info
    16k gal plaster with raised spa, Jandy DEV60 filter, 2 HP 2-speed SHPF Jandy Stealth pump
    Hayward Aqua Rite T-15 SWCG, Jandy LXi 400k BTU NG heater, 350 sq.ft. of Sun Star solar panels, TF-100 Test Kit, Dolphin s300i Cleaner
    Test Kits . Pool Math . Chlorine/CYA Chart . The SLAM Process

  6. Back To Top    #6

    Re: Another "low flow" issue

    All goes through the cell.
    I was considering that maybe I need a more powerful pump? I have a 1 1/2 hp now. What kind of water flow is necessary? Seems strong to me. It just seemed to work well without problem for a few days after I cleaned the tank grids but they shouldn't be dirty only a week out.

    What about that reset button? Anyone know where with the new type sensor?

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    Re: Another "low flow" issue

    No reset on the new sensor.

  8. Back To Top    #8

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    Re: Another "low flow" issue

    What is the filter's clean pressure and what is it now?
    16k gal plaster with raised spa, Jandy DEV60 filter, 2 HP 2-speed SHPF Jandy Stealth pump
    Hayward Aqua Rite T-15 SWCG, Jandy LXi 400k BTU NG heater, 350 sq.ft. of Sun Star solar panels, TF-100 Test Kit, Dolphin s300i Cleaner
    Test Kits . Pool Math . Chlorine/CYA Chart . The SLAM Process

  9. Back To Top    #9

    Re: Another "low flow" issue

    IMG_4194.jpg

    Pressure is 19-20. 15 was last week immediately after adding 6lbs DE (appropriate for my tank and grids).

    I need to add that my low flow condition seems to be intermittent. This morning, it was no flow. Came home this afternoon to flow, cell on. I took apart the cell again today - it was clear. I rinsed and scrubbed the sensor again anyway.

    Russ
    30,000 gallon pebble-tec in-ground pool. Jandy Aquapure 1400 salt system. 1.5 hp fixed speed pump. IAqualink integrated system- pump, spa, SWG, lights. Kreepy Krauly. Rooftop Solar heater (on pool pump). Taylor K2006 test kit. SoCal, near Los Angeles - sunny and hot. Local well water, very hard.

  10. Back To Top    #10

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    Re: Another "low flow" issue

    It is time to backwash the filter as it is over 25% rise in pressure over the clean pressure. Do you know why the pressure is increasing so fast? Might be an indication of a low level algae outbreak.
    16k gal plaster with raised spa, Jandy DEV60 filter, 2 HP 2-speed SHPF Jandy Stealth pump
    Hayward Aqua Rite T-15 SWCG, Jandy LXi 400k BTU NG heater, 350 sq.ft. of Sun Star solar panels, TF-100 Test Kit, Dolphin s300i Cleaner
    Test Kits . Pool Math . Chlorine/CYA Chart . The SLAM Process

  11. Back To Top    #11

    Re: Another "low flow" issue

    Thanks Ping. I agree, I do not know why the pressure has come up so quickly, no obvious evidence of algae. Even so, I can't believe that even a small reduction in flow like this pressure indicates would give me the low flow error. My tank has gone for 6 months in the past without needing cleaning. Anyway, for diagnostic reasons, this is what I plan to do.

    I'm going to clean the filter grids again today, make sure all residual is out.
    I'm then going to run the system without DE for a couple of days and see what the situation is with the "low flow." If no low flow errors, may just mean to me that my system is on the borderline and not getting enough flow when dirty. If that's the case, I may need a stronger pump and impeller.

    If it's fine without DE, I'll then charge it initially with 4-5lbs instead of 6 (recommended for my tank) of DE and see how that works.

    This process may help separate out if it truly is a low flow situation or an electronic one. As I said, all of my board tests have been normal and it's a new sensor. I did notice once the flow light on the accessory module flickering on and off. Could that be showing that it's on the edge of enough and not enough flow? I see no explanation in the literature what a flickering flow light indicates.

    I appreciate your help.
    Russ

    Addendum: I think I will amend my plan and just backwash it to see if any change in flow situation. Add apback about 80% of required DE. I read that running without DE will cause pressure build up and could cause damage? Not sure how that happens. Article also said that after running continuously for 48 hours necessitates a backwash. I have been running it for long cycles since I added salt and wanted to get that mixed in. Why doesn't that require a backwash?
    Thanks.
    30,000 gallon pebble-tec in-ground pool. Jandy Aquapure 1400 salt system. 1.5 hp fixed speed pump. IAqualink integrated system- pump, spa, SWG, lights. Kreepy Krauly. Rooftop Solar heater (on pool pump). Taylor K2006 test kit. SoCal, near Los Angeles - sunny and hot. Local well water, very hard.

  12. Back To Top    #12

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    Re: Another "low flow" issue

    Do not run the filter without DE as it can damage the grids. I only backwash when the pressure rises 25% above the clean pressure. I've gone a year without that large of increase before.
    16k gal plaster with raised spa, Jandy DEV60 filter, 2 HP 2-speed SHPF Jandy Stealth pump
    Hayward Aqua Rite T-15 SWCG, Jandy LXi 400k BTU NG heater, 350 sq.ft. of Sun Star solar panels, TF-100 Test Kit, Dolphin s300i Cleaner
    Test Kits . Pool Math . Chlorine/CYA Chart . The SLAM Process

  13. Back To Top    #13

    Re: Another "low flow" issue

    OK. Just backwashed and bumped a couple of times. Recharged with 5lbs DE (80% of 6lbs.) Opening pressure on gauge 15. Flow is on and making chlorine. We'll see. My pool man doubts it's a flow problem, I tend to agree.
    Russ
    30,000 gallon pebble-tec in-ground pool. Jandy Aquapure 1400 salt system. 1.5 hp fixed speed pump. IAqualink integrated system- pump, spa, SWG, lights. Kreepy Krauly. Rooftop Solar heater (on pool pump). Taylor K2006 test kit. SoCal, near Los Angeles - sunny and hot. Local well water, very hard.

  14. Back To Top    #14

    Re: Another "low flow" issue

    So I backwashed well yesterday (opened and cleaned grids 2 weeks ago), and a day later, my gauge pressure is 18-19 from a start of 15 yesterday. Why? Is this normal?
    30,000 gallon pebble-tec in-ground pool. Jandy Aquapure 1400 salt system. 1.5 hp fixed speed pump. IAqualink integrated system- pump, spa, SWG, lights. Kreepy Krauly. Rooftop Solar heater (on pool pump). Taylor K2006 test kit. SoCal, near Los Angeles - sunny and hot. Local well water, very hard.

  15. Back To Top    #15

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    Re: Another "low flow" issue

    No, that is not normal. Do you have a FAS/DPD test? I suggest running an OCLT to determine if you have nascent algae that the chlorine is killing off before it blooms to where you can see it.
    16k gal plaster with raised spa, Jandy DEV60 filter, 2 HP 2-speed SHPF Jandy Stealth pump
    Hayward Aqua Rite T-15 SWCG, Jandy LXi 400k BTU NG heater, 350 sq.ft. of Sun Star solar panels, TF-100 Test Kit, Dolphin s300i Cleaner
    Test Kits . Pool Math . Chlorine/CYA Chart . The SLAM Process

  16. Back To Top    #16

    Re: Another "low flow" issue

    Yes I do. FC and TC are 2, CC is 0. I just looked up the OCLT and will do it tonight. Thanks.

  17. Back To Top    #17

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    Re: Another "low flow" issue

    I suggest to raise the FC to 10 ppm tonight and turn the SWG to 0% when you run the OCLT. Use bleach to raise the FC.
    16k gal plaster with raised spa, Jandy DEV60 filter, 2 HP 2-speed SHPF Jandy Stealth pump
    Hayward Aqua Rite T-15 SWCG, Jandy LXi 400k BTU NG heater, 350 sq.ft. of Sun Star solar panels, TF-100 Test Kit, Dolphin s300i Cleaner
    Test Kits . Pool Math . Chlorine/CYA Chart . The SLAM Process

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    Re: Another "low flow" issue

    Quote Originally Posted by ping View Post
    No, that is not normal. Do you have a FAS/DPD test? I suggest running an OCLT to determine if you have nascent algae that the chlorine is killing off before it blooms to where you can see it.
    This is my gues as well.

    Before I learned about the "BBB" pool maintenance method, I had instances where my DE filter pressure would jump unexpectedly. Sure enough, soon after the liner would start to get slick (water was clear) indicating a pending algae outbreak.

    If the OP's CYA is where it should be for a SWCG, then his FC is way too low and an invitation for an algae breakout (visible or not).
    20k IG vinyl liner/Aqua Rite SWCG, T-15 cell/Hayward Pro Grid 6020 DE filter/Polaris 280 with booster pump/Hayward Superpump 1 hp/city water/pool installed March 2004

  19. Back To Top    #19

    Re: Another "low flow" issue

    Thanks all. I added 3 lbs shock yesterday morning (60%) which is what I calculated to raise FC to 10. I set the SWG to 0 and checked the FC in the evening, it was between 3 & 5 which actually was good for me since my test kit only has comparisons up to 5. Obviously I was very low on chlorine. Anyway, I checked again in the early morning and it's the same.
    My CYA is 50.

    At this point, I guess I should probably add another couple of pounds of shock and/or set the SWG to boost for 24 hours. So far my flow indication has been ok (but now that I said it, I'm sure it'll fail).
    30,000 gallon pebble-tec in-ground pool. Jandy Aquapure 1400 salt system. 1.5 hp fixed speed pump. IAqualink integrated system- pump, spa, SWG, lights. Kreepy Krauly. Rooftop Solar heater (on pool pump). Taylor K2006 test kit. SoCal, near Los Angeles - sunny and hot. Local well water, very hard.

  20. Back To Top    #20

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    Re: Another "low flow" issue

    I'm confused, you said that you had the FAS/DPD test yet for the OCLT you did not use it. You can not do an OCLT without a FAS/DPD test.
    16k gal plaster with raised spa, Jandy DEV60 filter, 2 HP 2-speed SHPF Jandy Stealth pump
    Hayward Aqua Rite T-15 SWCG, Jandy LXi 400k BTU NG heater, 350 sq.ft. of Sun Star solar panels, TF-100 Test Kit, Dolphin s300i Cleaner
    Test Kits . Pool Math . Chlorine/CYA Chart . The SLAM Process

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