The quote was taken from this discussion about the parameters that are relevant to calculating CSI (and other tangential ideas ).Originally Posted by chem geek
I've noticed in all my time reading and lurking, that the only option ever suggested to those who want to let their pool operate at a higher pH (@ or around 8.2, although some Taylor OTO/pH comparator blocks only go to 8.0) is an expensive, hard-to-maintain electronic meter, in order get an accurate pH reading.
However, there are several Taylor pH test kits that are designed to test a higher or wider range (the following belong to their "slide comparator" series-- which seem like they could be easier to color match with):
- K-1011-K, cresol red, (7.2-8.8)
- K-1011-L, metacresol purple, (7.6-9.2)
- K-1011-M, thymol blue, (8.0-9.6)
- K-1011-U, pH, Long Range, (3.0-11.0) [no reagent specified]
These kits aren't cheap, in the neighborhood of $100+. Probably still less than the electronic meter, which has fragile sensors, and requires calibration on an ongoing basis.
I've seen other Taylor kits, too... but didn't do an exhaustive search to get the kit #'s. No doubt, LaMotte has comparable offerings, as well.
My intent isn't to re-hash the reasons for running pH higher in the first place... I was just trying to figure out why an inherently finicky e-meter would be better than a test kit that is similar to what we are all already used to using.
Thanks to whoever is willing to indulge my curiosity... The monsoon storms have kept me out of the pool and I'm bored, I guess.