High CYA did a water dump next steps to keep it down?

OUCH.

Yeah unfortunately that's what ends up happening with routine puck use. With a CYA level that high it's going to be virtually impossible to adequately maintain your chlorine levels. I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but you probably need to consider at least, another partial drain, and refill, to get it at more manageable levels.


Do you close your pool for the Winter? If so, you MIGHT be able to work super hard the next few weeks to Maintain an appropriate FC level for that sky high CYA level, but it's going to be super hard to achieve, and super hard to prevent a full blown algae outbreak. Keep us posted and have a fun, and safe Labor Day. :)
 
So I added a little more than the 121 OZ size yesterday and its looking right around 10 or 11 its hard to judge color that accurately. I diluted the pool water by 2:1. so I needed to go from 2ish to 11 and used 2 full 121 oz jugs which is pretty much on track with the calculator. SO my question is with Such a high CYA level, will my FC go down as fast as if I had say CYA of 70? Just trying to judge how often I will need to add to keep FC at 11. Obviously its getting toward the end of season. Anyone with experience in such high CYA levels? I really don't want to dump any more water my bill will be crazy I dumped almost 9K gallons already! Also will CYA go down over time or is the only way by either a water dump or that Bio-active stuff
 
The higher CYA will hold it better (but the problem with a CYA that high is the chlorine level has to remain so high, that it's near to impossible to try to Maintain the appropriate level, and way too easy to drop below the minimum for that CYA which will allow algae to grow).

You'll just need to check it every hour or so, and see how well it's holding. Then increase your chlorine levels slightly to get you through 2hours, 3hours, 8 hours, etc. by how much the level on average drops over a certain amount of time. I hope this helps, and have a wonderful night. :)
 
Ill test in the morning to see how much it dropped in 12 hours. I suspect with such a high CYA not that much. So with the pucks I used to keep my chlorine around 5 because the pool was vey warm figured that was a good thing. I really never had a full blown algae issue just some on the wall once in a while. In reality I should have been running at 10 or more. I was going through a $60 bucket every 4-5 weeks, should have been 2 buckets to keep it at 10+. And that would have added a TON of CYA. God what a vicious cycle.

Bottom line is I need to get my CYA in line. Again looking for input on Bio-Active CYA reducer for some folks it works quite well others not so much. It appears that the only way to reduce to 40 is for me to drain 3/4 of my pool or try that stuff. CYA apparently does not go away on its own.
 
Yes it is a vicious cycle for sure. Not using the pucks, and only using liquid bleach will help it not get any higher.

Yeah, unfortunately the CYA doesn't go away on it's own. You might have a little loss during the Winter after closing, and a little through backwash/rinse/refill, but none are enough to make a big difference.

I've never used the Bio Guard so I can't help on that at all, but maybe some who has will come along, and offer you their input.
 
So this is all new to me but this CYA issue has been going on 20-30 years or more. Surely the Tri-clo manufacturers know this. So how do large commercial pools do it they don't use bleach do they? Some regulations for commercial pool are as low as 40 CYA so why the heck do puck manufacturers put in 50% CYA. A company like Clorox has nothing really to gain from overdosing peoples pools until they have issues really on local pool stores.

Is there any puck manufacturer that make low dose or no dose CYA?
 
Chem Geek and other have explained in detail why you can't do solid without some type of additive. Either calcium or CYA or something. I'll try to find a link or two and post them.

Really though, what it comes down to, is that bleach adds so little other stuff it's the best source for chlorine out there.
 

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So this is all new to me but this CYA issue has been going on 20-30 years or more. Surely the Tri-clo manufacturers know this. So how do large commercial pools do it they don't use bleach do they? Some regulations for commercial pool are as low as 40 CYA so why the heck do puck manufacturers put in 50% CYA. A company like Clorox has nothing really to gain from overdosing peoples pools until they have issues really on local pool stores.

Is there any puck manufacturer that make low dose or no dose CYA?

The CYA is not added to the pucks. It's part of the chemical itself. The pucks are Trichloroisocyanuric acid (aka trichloro-s-triazine) and more commonly known as Trichlor. It's basically CYA with three chlorine attached to it (compare Trichlor to CYA). It is a single chemical so for ALL Trichlor no matter the manufacturer for every 10 ppm Free Chlorine (FC) they also increase Cyanuric Acid (CYA) by 6 ppm. It was a coincidence that you ran into problems when using the Clorox brand. They may not be compressing their pucks as much so by dissolving faster you used more chorine so added CYA more quickly than you usually do so you crossed over the edge to get algae growth because your FC/CYA ratio got too low (because your CYA level got too high so when you dropped the FC lower the ratio got low and algae could then grow faster than chlorine could kill it). It's also possible that the other pucks you used to use had an algaecide in them such as copper.

The active chlorine (hypochlorous acid) level that kills algae is proportional to the FC/CYA ratio. So at higher CYA levels you'd need to raise your FC proportionally to prevent algae growth. Alternatively, you can use chlorinating liquid or bleach that does not increase the CYA level; they only increase the FC level (and salt, but all chlorine sources increase salt since chlorine converts to chloride salt when it is used/consumed).

Commercial/public pools that have higher bather loads mostly use chlorinating liquid, some use saltwater chlorine generators, a small number use chlorine gas, and some use Cal-Hypo with sufficient water dilution to keep Calcium Hardness (CH) in check. Only commercial pools with lower bather loads use Trichlor and even then they have to drain/dilute the water when the CYA exceeds the state limit which is 100 ppm or lower. New York bans CYA (and therefore use of stabilized chlorine) in commercial/public pools completely.

Basically, Trichlor is primarily a residential pool product. It is convenient because the chlorine is concentrated so is less weight to carry and it is slow-dissolving. Instead of the pool industry being up-front about the problems of rising CYA with Trichlor, they instead get to sell you all kinds of supplemental products that are higher margin (profit) including algaecides, phosphate removers, clarifiers, flocculants, enzymes, etc. Some pools are naturally low in algae nutrient levels (e.g. phosphates and nitrates) so don't get algae in spite of higher CYA levels (lower FC/CYA ratios) and the existence of such pools has many people not believe in the FC/CYA ratio because they see it as refuting CYA having anything to do with algae growth. You, too, would probably have sworn that there is no such relationship because you never had a problem for 12 seasons. Now you know better.
 
This is some great stuff here. So yes I use phos free and my phosphate are zero as well as metals. So my chlorine is still the same level as 24 hours ago around 5 or maybe a little more with a 2:1 dilution with distilled water so its at least 10-12 about where it was 24 hours ago. My daughter says I look like a evil scientist with all the test tubes and such! I will give the Bio-Active a shot once it gets too cold to keep putting heater on. I have read quite a few folks that have brought levels of 150 down to 40 or 50. We stay in as long as possible as we have a heater and gas is actually pretty cheap its around 30 to heat the pool up for a day and that's a 20 degree increase usually.

I don't cover in winter Its a really weird shape and don't know where to get a cover without spend ridiculous amounts. I keep the pump on when its cold once in a while I have had to turn the heater on as it was icing up. Its usually not bad here we get maybe a week or so of 20's at night but it goes right up to 50's during day.

The best was I was at the pool store last week getting water tested. I started at 120 CYA at the time I had no idea what that was or its effects but reading here changed things. I drained 1/3 out(it took 3 drain/fill I didn't want to mess liner up so only did 6 " at a time) and next time I took it there it was 80 and I was happy. Then took some more out went back and They said it was 160! I said how is that even possible. His response "well its nature man it does some weird things" . I called him out on everything I read here then the knowledgeable guy came up and said they probably read wrong. My guess they didn't dilute or forgot to double... God only knows what I started with.

Anyway after that I got my own test kit that can do CYA. Will probably never go back to a pool store after I found this place to hang out! Amazing what I learned in a week.
 
LOL on the evil scientist look. I close one eye when I'm reading my CYA test and I know the neighbors probably all think I'm either making passes at my pool chemicals, or Them lol.

Perhaps a tarp can be purchased that would help with the cover issue?

I completely understand about the craziness of the pool store test results. Fortunately you decided to take matters into your own hands, and I suspect you will never regret that decision.

We're so glad you want to hang out with the rest of us cool "Evil scientist" looking folks. But please know "its nature man it does some weird things." LOL.

Have a wonderful day :).
 
So I had to add another jug of 121 oz my pool to get it back above 10. It was around 10-12 using 2:1 dilution test on Sunday and its held that level until this afternoon so pretty good. I think I need the FAS kit to be a little more accurate at these levels. Is there a specific reagent I need I have the rebranded Taylor 2600 kit from Leslie.

Also so anyone use the liquinator from HASA? Looks interesting to dispense the bleach. I have seen some posts about it eating pump seals and metal as its injected before the pump. Interesting idea to use the pool pump to suck the bleach out of tank.
 
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