TA/ acidity

[Blount]

If I understand right a higher TA should drive PH up. If recommended is 100 and mine is 120. But my ph always seems to want to run at 6.8. I really have trouble getting above 7.2. I know you are going to want reading but its almost closing time. I will get the fancy kit at opening. Using pool supplies tester and I know its unreliable especially on chlorine. Test strips show TA a lot higher than 120. But here is what they say.
PH 7.2 This is after adding 12 lb of washing soda(borax)
hardness 17
ta 120
cy 60
copper 0
iron 0

 

[PAGirl]

What size is the size of your pool? Your PH could have been lower, I believe that's as low as the tests read.

 

[Blount]

13500 gal. I use an electronic PH tester to test PH. But I always bounce it off a strip and thier readings.

 

[Donldson]

TA is the most flexible of the TFPC guidelines. This is because each pool is different with major factors including fill water acidity, rain acidity, and chlorine type utilized. Trichlor is acidic while sodium hypochlorite is basic (well, mostly pH neutral in the long run, but basic at first). So there are a lot of variables involved in where your pool will stabilize its pH. Unfortunately with only test strips and pool store results I can't offer much advise on it.

Also, borax and washing soda are not the same. Washing soda is sodium carbonate and affects pH and TA. Borax is sodium tetraborate and mostly just affects pH. They are both sold in the laundry aisle but are different.

 

[Blount]

I added the one with the horses. along with some muratic acid For TA. Just didn't make sense to add acid for TA adjustment when I always fight PH up.

 

[chem geek]

Why is your pH always so low? Are you using Trichlor or non-chlorine shock (MPS) or other acidic products? Do you use a pool cover?

 

[jblizzle]

Are you just using a pH reader and test strips? Because generally we do not trust results from either of those.

 

[Blount]

I use a handheld PH meter. Gets used everywhere from the kitchen, basement and outside. But yes I had been using trichlor . I see now what I may have been fighting. Just shocked the pool with bleach so I will let things mellow out and use bleach and see where it settles in at. Should I aerate it anymore than just a little ripple on top of the water?

 

[Blount]

I use a handheld PH meter. Gets used everywhere from the kitchen, basement and outside. But yes I had been using trichlor . I see now what I may have been fighting. Just shocked the pool with bleach so I will let things mellow out and use bleach and see where it settles in at. Should I aerate it anymore than just a little ripple on top of the water?

 

[ping]

If you stick with bleach the pH will start to rise since you were using trichlor which is acidic and causing the pH to drop. You can learn more about your pool's chemistry in this article, ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry.

If you stick with trichlor you will want to raise the TA and pH so aeration is not the best method. Read this link to understand what chemicals do to the chemistry, Recommended Pool Chemicals.

If you want full control and know exactly what shape the chemistry is in you need a quality test kit, see my signature for a TF-100 kit.

 

[Blount]

No I am sticking to bleach. But reading the link you suggested I read it again. With my high TA it suggest aeration is the best method to raise PH.

 

[jblizzle]

TA is the last thing you should typically worry about. What is your CYA? That is critical to know the required FC levels.

We also do not "shock" our pools. We follow the ShockLevelAndMAINTAIN Process when there is a problem and that requires the FAS-DPD chlorine test which you are lacking.

The TFPC method is really just about understanding your pool’s chemistry and through accurate testing, adding only what the pool NEEDS. At this point you can not perform the "accurate testing" portion of that philosophy so it is nearly impossible to offer advice.

 

[Blount]

cya 60 from the previous test. Nope it was using a ton of chlorine. I attempted to keep it at 24 FC and did it till it till seemed to quit needed it. and kept it high for 3 more days Keeping at 8 now. water felt good today. Me and boys got in. It usually itched a little, no problems today. PH today is 7.2 so it has went up on its own. I plan on a test kit for opening but I usually close after next weekend as we hardly use it after that. But now I read somewhere I should be waiting to water temp is 60. I kind of liked to get it covered up before leaves started falling. I guess the only complaint today would be it kind seemed I got mouth washed out with soap while swimming. Borax wont do that will it?

 

[Blount]

ok decided not to wait got one on the way. I figure the next post will be how will I know my shock level for closing.

 

[pooldv]

No, borax does not make the water seem soapy. Did you maybe pick up some bleach that was scented or splashless?

 

[aussieta]

adding muriatic acid will lower your ph post #5
to lower your ta you add ma which lowers ph and ta
then aerate to increase your ph back up

 

[Blount]

Nope just generic Walmart brand. When close to Ace I did grab a couple of gallons of the HCH 10% stuff. The kids didn't complain about it and they were spitting it all over each other. I am on an antibiotic it may be playing with my senses. I still kind of taste it in my morning coffee. And on the last post that's what I was going by, that plus the pool supply results said to add 2 qt acid for TA control and I decided to use Borax to raise PH. However that was done on Tue. Here it is Sunday and my PH has been 7.2 - 7.3 ever sense. I missed the Triclor was lowering PH. I knew it added CYA just for some reason overlooked the first part. I have never went this long without buying soda ash. Now if I can get it to live on a 1/2 gallon bleach a day.

 

[chem geek]

Since your TA is on the high side, I would have just aerated to get the pH up, but it's fine where you are at now. So with your higher TA if you find the pH rising and you needing to add acid, then just let the TA drop. Though you can accelerate that if you want to with aeration and acid addition at low pH, you could just let the TA drop slowly over time -- up to you. A lower TA and a higher pH target will lessen the amount of acid you need to add.

You should put your pool particulars into your signature. In particular, the size of your pool in gallons, what kind of pool surface (plaster, vinyl, fiberglass), what kind of filter (sand, DE, cartridge), type of pump (size in HP, single/double/variable speed).

 

[Blount]

Well I aeriated it today. Took a reading on PH with my meter. First time ever 7.4. I guess that's the good news as I also received a new test kit to verify that my meter is still in calibration. My reading are a lot different from what they had. Also my GFI tripped out and no chlorine was injected into the pool why I was gone today. However here they are.
PH 7.4
Calcium-270
FC-1
CC-.4
TA- 160
CYA- Guessing 120 as they scale starts at 100 and seeing how it gets smaller as it goes up in value it could be higher.
Pool is clear as I had been maintaining 8 ppm FC.

 

[PAGirl]

Well I aeriated it today. Took a reading on PH with my meter. First time ever 7.4. I guess that's the good news as I also received a new test kit to verify that my meter is still in calibration. My reading are a lot different from what they had. Also my GFI tripped out and no chlorine was injected into the pool why I was gone today. However here they are.
PH 7.4
Calcium-270
FC-1
CC-.4
TA- 160
CYA- Guessing 120 as they scale starts at 100 and seeing how it gets smaller as it goes up in value it could be higher.
Pool is clear as I had been maintaining 8 ppm FC.

Earlier you mentioned your CYA as 60. Did you add something to bring it up? How did you arrive at that value?