Slamming for 14 days looking for some advice

Jump to latest Follow Reply
B

Barb55

0
Aug 10, 2015
17
Fairfield, Illinois
Hello, I started slamming 14 days ago and have been successful at getting rid of the algea. My problem now is blue water that will not completely clear. The water is not green, cloudy or aqua in color...it is the correct color of blue just not real clear. I ran numbers and came up with these
CYA 45-50
PH 8.2 or higher
Calcium 100
TA 260
FC 16
CC 0
OCLT 0
This is the second time I have run these numbers and the results are identical except the FC which was 17.5 last time
My filter is working well (the gauge has quit but I can tell when a backwash is needed by the force of the water coming out the return) I also do a backwash and rinse after vacuuming each day. Can I stop the slam and just wait for my filter to complete the clearing or will my high PH and TA numbers keep it from clearing completely. Thanks for any advice.
 
Well, your TA is VERY high. However, with FC above 10, the pH test is invalid so don't bother testing it unitl your FC is below 10.

What are the numbers like directly from your well? In other words, what are your readings from your fill water? Do you know if you have any metals in your well water?

It sounds like you are done SLAMing but one of the criteria is clear water. If you don't think it is clear enough, maintain the FC at SLAM levels. Check all nooks and crannies, under ladders, inside pool lights, inside the skimmer for any possible sources of algae still left hanging around.

Keep brushing and moving that stuff around. DE is a good idea.

When you are done SLAMing AND your FC drops below 10, you can then measure the pH and TA and then work with acid to lower the TA.

If you have metals in the water, they can contribute to 'not-so-clear' water but give the DE and another day or two of SLAMing a chance to work before looking to other things.
 
Try to *not* backwash each and every time you vacuum. Sand filters actually work better a *bit* dirty.

Make sure you are SLAMing with the FC for 50 CYA. There really isn't a "45" so you round up.

You're not using any calcium or HypoCal in the pool right??
 
Thanks for all the suggestions. I will test my water from the fill water (I assume you mean the hose) and see about getting a new gauge. Where do you get DE? I will not backwash after vacuuming each time and make sure I am doing the slam for 50 cya. I am not using anything but bleach. I took my ladder out and have scrubbed it with bleach but have not put it back it. I also have bleach water in the "fill to hold down" holes on the ladder. I don't have any lights or anything else in the pool and the skimmer baskets are clean. I guess I just need a good old dose of what you folks call POP. I am also concerned that using that much bleach without there being any algea my liner may get damaged. Thank you again
 
Good morning all...I am thrilled to report that my pool is clear! Didn't have to add any DE, just had to be patient. The readings I checked are OCLT-0 and CC-0 FC-17. I didn't check the ph and will check cya to figure out what my chlorine level should be by the cya/chlorine chart. My understanding is that I need to let my chlorine level drop to the cya chart level then check my PH and adjust the PH if necessary with muriatic acid. How long after adding the acid do I check my ph level again to see if it needs more and what time of day is best to add the acid. I intend to add any needed chlorine in the evening and should I also continue running my pump 24/7? Thanks once again for all the help I am definitely a convert! No more pool store for me. I would appreciate any suggestions. Barbara
 
:whoot::cheers:


:nopic:


You can do the acid at any time the pump is running. Usually check it again after 30-60 mins.

Pump run time is really dependent on what it takes to keep the pool clean. Some folks look at skimmer needs, like if you get a lot of leaves and surface debris. Run until that stuff clears. Others look at circulation. If your returns are poorly placed and don't get water all around the pool, it might take a little longer to make sure chlorine can get where it needs to be.

This page will prove useful reading: http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/123-abc-of-pool-water-chemistry

Here are a couple more:
http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/139-recommended-pool-chemicals

http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/131-basic-pool-care-schedule
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Glad you cleared it. I don't have DE, but I use "clarifier" instead. It helps to glue together all the fine particles in the water, so that the sand filter is collecting it. I add small amounts weekly. Also, do not backwash too often (the working gauge is a must) and vacuum to waste instead of filter!

I am new on TFP, but after 1 month of using TFP methods (and pin pointing the problems), tenants in the building already noticed that the pool is "cleaner then before".
 
Truly. if you follow TFP methods very closely, you won't run into problems that require a clarifier. This is my 4th summer using the TFp way, and I have not ever added anything other than bleach, CYA, borax, baking sodaand a little PH down, when I miscalculated how much soda to add once. (Didn't want to have acid laying around a long time, since my PH seems to stay very low.)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply