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Sweazy1770

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Aug 24, 2015
6
Wakarusa, IN
Until now I've been using test results and advice from Pool Store. Always thought they were pretty honest but they had recommended level of cya as 30-150 and never recommended I switch away from pucks even though my level was 100+. I came across this site and bought a TF100 kit. Is the reason some pool stores recommended cya levels are so much higher because they want you to buy more chlorine? I drained 1/3 of the pool and got it down to 85-90 cya. What do I need to do next?

PH 7.5
FC 2.0
TC2.5
Calcium 325
Alkalinity 130
CYA 85-90
 
Welcome to TFP

What you need to do next will be based on how the pool looks. Clear, cloudy, green, frogs swimming?

If clear, add chlorine now to keep it that way. At CYA 90 you should never go below FC 7.
 
Welcome to TFP!
Sweazy1770 said:
Is the reason some pool stores recommended cya levels are so much higher because they want you to buy more chlorine?
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The reason is because the industry in general either ignores, denies, or is just ignorant of the buffering effect CYA has on chlorine that has been documented since the 1970's. If you ask 10 different pool store employees what CYA actually does you will probably get about 10 different answers, it really is that bad. Being honest doesn't even factor in to it (though there are plenty of dishonest salespeople in any business), they are there to sell chemicals and if they only know what the chemical reps have told them then that is what they will sell you based on.

As Tim said, you need to get your FC up above 7 right away assuming clear water. Everything else is fine, though you should continue to bring your CYA down. You wrote TC 2.5, is that really TC (as in you have 0.5 CC) or is that your CC? In the future if you could give FC and CC that would be best, we can do the math to figure out your TC ;)
 
Hi Sweazy,
welcome to TFP!

The pool industry doesnt recognize the FC/CYA relationship, but they are well of aware of the existance of it, and that it will work since decades ago.

Its been proven both scientifically by chemistry calculations and in real practice, that if the FC/CYA relationship is maintained, then the FC is suitable for killing algae spores which will prevent algae blooms.

The industry method of pool care is to maintain only enough FC to kill bacteria (and that FC level is considerably lower than for killing algae), and then use phosphate remover and algaecide on a regular basis to try and prevent algae.

The tesitmonials here on TFP of successful pools vs the amount of people coming here for help with green pool which are maintained by the pool store method just goes to show, that the pool store method just doesnt work in the long run.

Clearly, the TFPC method is both more effective and more economical than any other method of pool water maintenance.

Also not to mention, if the pool industry did recognize and promote maintianing a FC/CYA relationship, their chemical sales would drop drastically, as would the chemical makers stock price. And so that recognition just isn't going to happen. Ever.
 
It's clear and has been great all year. I would love to get cya in range but the 1/3 I drained took all day to refill and I'm on city water. I close the pool in a month. Should I just wait until next spring to try to rebalance or drain another 1/3?

Thanks all.
 
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Sweazy1770 said:
It's clear and has been great all year. I would love to get cya in range but the 1/3 I drained took all day to refill and I'm on city water. I close the pool in a month. Should I just wait until next spring to try to rebalance or drain another 1/3?

Thanks all.
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As long as the pool is clear and you don't develop a problem that requires a SLAM then time is on your side. I took over my pool with CYA in the 250 range and took 18 months to slowly work it down to 50. You just have to stay on top of the FC levels so you don't give algae a foothold.
 

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