Jandy Tri-Sensor 172 and 186 errors - Does IQ900-RS board replace front board?

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J

jb_sfl

0
Jan 5, 2015
46
Wellington, FL
My main question was Does the IQ900-RS board replace the 'Front Board'? (is front board the board that the tri sensor plugs into?)

I just replaced this sensor mid July of 2014. I am now getting 172 and 186 errors, and immediately figured it was the board, since I just replaced the sensor. Now after reading multiple posts it looks like it very well could be the sensor since they go out all the time. I did the checks on the board and they are all fine except for salinity check, it was 2.5 instead of 2.8gpl, but I did have to recalibrate the salinity, which is the reason for the difference (it states that in the trouble shooting guide, I can recalibrate and get it to 2.8 but the salinity is off when I do that) I sent an email to check on the warranty for it but I bet it isn't over a year, still waiting to hear back)

My original thought was if it is the board, I would upgrade to the IQ900-RS to ditch the PDA, the PDA buttons don't always work right.

My question was, the board you get with the IQ900-RS, does that replace what I believe is the 'Front Board'? It is the board where the tri-sensor plugs into, and had the chip with the firmware version on it (08020A07). My thought was, at least I would have an upgrade and ability to control the pool from my phone or the internet, and thought it replaced the board the tri sensor plugs into, so that may actually fix the problem.

If I am really looking at another sensor, I will probably put the money into that instead of upgrading the board.

Thanks.
 
To answer your question, Yes, the IQ900-RS will replace your existing 'Front Board'. You may want to also look into the IQ20-RS which is the upgraded 2.0 version of the IQ900-RS, have heard some reports of improved connectivity and signal strength. I'm sure there are some TFP users that could give you a little more feedback between the two.

If you have contacted the manufacturer in regards to your warranty, I would wait to hear back before moving ahead with a purchase, unless you were contemplating the upgrade regardless. It sounds like you already did the checks for the board...but if you need the PDF doc on all the error codes and how to check the board, just send me a message.

Thanks!
 
I saw the post about the jumper, I should have one per rev number. This pool is about 6 years old and I have had it about 2 years, I have never had a problem with these codes, and when I replaced the old sensor it was discolored so looked like it was the original. If I had an issue with the jumper I think I would have seen problems before.

Seller called, said the old white epoxy sensors used to go bad a lot, I have the newer one though and he said he has not seen too many issues with the new one. Jandy warranty is 90 days LOL. He said to give him a call and he would help me troubleshoot the issue, I will try to give him a call tomorrow.

So I may try to replace this 'Front' board after all.
The IQ900-RS I see around $250-$300, where the IQ20-RS looks more like $550-$600. I think I will stick with the IQ900, I have a router pretty close to where the antennae will be mounted outside so I think I will be good.

Will update when I make any progress.
 
I went ahead and ordered the IQ900-RS, someone had it for $253, but I went with one for $266 since it was qualified for Amazon Prime with free two day shipping. Hopefully this will fix it, if it doesn't I guess I am going with a new sensor again.

One other thing is I had not mentioned, was for awhile it was getting 121 - Low Cell Current in Reverse direction. I remedied this with a cell cleaning, I still think it may be having that issue, just the 172 and 186 may be ovreriding, meaning if the flow sensor isn't working, it is never cutting the cell one anymore to get the 121 error. I have pretty much replaced all the main parts except for the Cell, and the DC cord at this point.

At least the board will give me access over my phone so won't be a total loss if I still have some parts to replace.
 
I just got the IQ900RS kit and I thought that was going to give me a new front board, all it has is the little board for the wifi!


I don't think this is a mistake because it doesn't say anything in the quick install about installing a new main/front board.

I guess I am back to square 1.
 
So I am not messing with that wireless board till I get this system fixed again.
I actually just put the old sensor in, which I don't remember getting an error with, it was just erratic with the salt ppm reading. So when I put the old sensor in, I am getting 172/180(Heated sensor element not heating whatever that means) and then putting the new sensor back in it again goes to 172/186. That makes me think the sensor is not the issue, and it looks brand new still contacts are very shiny.

I have also tested the following on the board, making me thing it is not the board or the transformer.
75 VAC - looks good
65 VAC - looks good
VAC1 tobVAC2 - Looks good
5VDC to Common - Looks good
12VDC to Common - Looks good
24VDC to Common - Looks good
I see other test points in the manual I found, maybe it is the wrong manual for my board but don't see
Test Points 1 through 8 (I don't see them anywhere)
Test Points A thruogh K (I don't see them anywhere)

Does anyone know if it could be the cell itself causing the 172/186 errors?
I was getting a 121 before I got the 172/186.
 
I did these and all passed -

First Test- Salinity:
Press the R-Temp & the Salinity buttons
on the PIB, and the Salinity readout
button on the UIB.
The UIB display should read between
2.7 to 3.1.
If the number is outside this range,
replace the PIB.
Second Test- Low Temp:
Press the R-Temp & the Salinity buttons
on the PIB, and the Temperature
readout button on the UIB.
The UIB display should read between
73 to 77 Degrees.
If the number is outside this range,
replace the PIB.
Third Test- High Temp:
Press the H-Temp & button on the PIB,
and the Salinity readout & Chlorine
Production down button on the UIB.
The UIB display should read between
89 to 93 Degrees.


I am going to have to figure out this adapter board and jumper I don't know how to check that.
 

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Google "AquaPure® and PureLinkTM Tri-Sensor Adapter Installation Kit".

You can get the adaptor by itself. It might work.

If you need a new trisensor and your cell is old, then you would be better off getting the plc1400 cell kit, which comes with a new trisensor.

It looks like your trisensor is plugged directly into the power interface board. The adaptor is a small board that fits between the sensor plug and the board.
 
If anyone is interested about the IAuquaLink, here is what Jandy support told me. Board is not compatible, pool was built 2009 and I thought I read these were compatible 2007 and later. Thank goodness for Amazon Prime membership with no hassel return.

I am a little confused by below response, so I am asking them which one to get if I want to turn things on and off via the web/phone, and also program things from the web/phone? From reply below looks like it is one or the other...

Hello,
Yes you need a board. That was the incorrect part number to get. I would have got IQ900-RS or IQ20-RS.
Both come with board, chip and antenna. you're board and chip must be above 6.0 on a PDA system but you can only turn things on/off there is no programming on the web. You would program from the PDA.
If you do the say IQ20-RS then you would have a rev R or above RS system and then you will be programming from the web and turning things on/off with the PDA remote.
 
JamesW said:
http://www.nuccibros.com/sec_0934drRb_dl/data_sheets/Jandy%20AquaPure%20Workbook.pdf

Make sure that the adaptor board is in and has the jumper installed.

Also, use the test buttons on the main circuit board to see if the board is interpreting the information from the the trisensor correctly.
Click to expand...

@JamesW - I found this on Ebay, couldn't find it anywhere else:
Zodiac Jandy Adapter Tri Sensor R0537600 for Aquapure salt sensor OEM NEW - $20

I will install this (if I didn't order something incompatible again like a dumb dumb) and hopefully that has the jumper instructions on the jumper. I don't know how long it will take to get here, so I am going to keep with the other good post I read on here adding Clorox to the pool in the mean time.

Here is the post on the jumper as reference:

Jandy Zodiac Flow Sensor Bad?
 
That is just a daughter board for the sensors and it supposed to increase the signal strength but it really did not solve any problems with the sensors. They have now moved on to another sensor design. I very much doubt that board will solve your problem.
 
OK thanks Ping. I read something else where someone pressure washed the cell I am going to try that today and cross my fingers. Else I will wait for that guy who I got the current tri sensor from and see what he things to do next.

I actually had ordered a whole new 'front' board or whatever they call the board with the test butons on it. I am keeping that as an option to through that new one in and see what happens, don't think I have to reset anything like casche/memory that I think you need to do with the power board with the buttons.

Also, to add to the IAquaLink Jandy support, looks like you wll need this one for all web useage.

Hello,
IQ20-RS...
Everything will be available on the web, but the PDA will be on/off only no programming capabilities.
 
So the pressure washing did nothing still same error. I think consencus on here is I need a new tri sensor, it looks brand new only a year old, and the cell is spotless. I am still suspecting the cell, I don't see what could go wrong with that massive DC cable.

So I have ordered IQ20-RS to upgrade my board. I only have one red jack on the current system, and I want internet controlled and also have a jandy VS FLO PRO, which each need a red jack. With one red jack already controlling something, I need a new red jack anyway since you can only put two sets of wires per red jack, at least that is what the manual says.

Also, I do need landscaping lights out back, so the IQ20-RS should help with that as well it has landscaping lights as an option, and controlling via cellphone I don't have to deal with that tempramental PDA.

If IQ20-RS doesn't fix my 172/186 errors, I think my next step is a new cell. Pool has original cell from 2009 so I think it is past its lifetime.
If the new cell doesn't fix it, I will then get a new sensor, and if that doesn't do it new DC cable.

I see kit for PLC1400 cell, DC cord and sensor for $525. Separately with cell at $439, DC cord at $35, and Sensor at $178 total is $665 saving $140 over parts being bought separately. I will try each separately to see if I can save some cash but worse case scenario is I am out $140, + the $20 for this tri sensor interface card which will doubtfully fix my issure per Ping's previous post.

There is no way I am hiring a pool technician to fix this, I will replace part by part and notify this forum when I install the part that works!!! On a mission!! Also might become one of the 'certified' pool technicians myself since any one of the ones I have hired in that past don't have a clue.
 
My thoughts are to buy a new cell kit that includes the new style of sensor as the cell is pretty old. The new style of sensor seems to be solving the issues that Jandy has had with the Aquapure.
 
I do have the new type of sensor, the slotted one, I just replaced it a year ago.

I am betting it is the cell, but wouldn't be surprised if it is the sensor since all signs are pointing that way.

I am going to put in the new IQ20-RS I will see what errors I get after putting that in.
 

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