About a week ago our SWG was reading a number way out of whack: 12700 ppm. We assumed it was a faulty sensor. However when we went to investigate this further it was discovered that someone had intentionally cut our pool wires (another story for another forum)on our sensor. My husband is quite handy and was able to splice the cut wires. Intitailly this looked like it fixed the problem, but now on and off each day we get a code reading of 125 and 194 ( basically saying to clean the salt cell or replace it if it's bad). We took it out and cleaned it ( although it didn't really look dirty). Put it back in and got the same codes on and off. Do you think we need to replace the cell? This is our 4 th summer with it. We just find it to be funny that everything was going great until someone cut the wires. I think it's pretty ironic that the cell could go bad at the same time. ( fyi: we had to replace our sensor wires in the past after our dog had chewed them , and at that time my husband again spliced the wires. Those sensors worked great after he spliced the wires but when the pool company came out to close our pool for the season, they made us replace them. So after this happened with our newer replaced wires, we also tried using our old sensors that were spliced and working fine. It still gave us the same codes of 125 and 194. ). Any thoughts? Do you think we need to replace the sensors and the cell or possibly one or the other? Or is there something we missed re: resetting our system after putting the repaired spliced sensors back on?
Jandy service code and salt cell
- Thread starter bkkari
- Start date
It sure seems like you need a new cell, but here is a guide to help you troubleshoot the system, http://www.nuccibros.com/sec_0934drRb_dl/data_sheets/Jandy%20AquaPure%20Workbook.pdf.
If you do need a new cell make sure you get one that comes with the new style of sensor as it seems the new sensors have solved Jandy's issues with the sensor.
If you do need a new cell make sure you get one that comes with the new style of sensor as it seems the new sensors have solved Jandy's issues with the sensor.
Try a new cell cord.
What is the box salt reading and what is the actual salt level?
What is the box salt reading and what is the actual salt level?
Ok, Thanks for your advice.
Our salt walter readings on our PDA say anywhere between 3100-3500 during the day. When we use our Taylor test kit it says 3600.
Our salt walter readings on our PDA say anywhere between 3100-3500 during the day. When we use our Taylor test kit it says 3600.
Unfortunately we have not had time to make any repairs/ modifications this last week, however we also discovered another piece of info that I'm hoping may help to determine if it's the cell that needs replacing vs the cell cord ,vs something else. We noticed that the error codes show up only when the SWG is on Flow mode. No codes show up when the SWG is in " Resting" mode or " reversing " mode (seems to be running fine then). Any thoughts on this? ... Again thanks for all of your advice and suggestions.
It sounds like one side of the cell is starting to fail while the other side still has some life in it.
You might be able to run it at 100% to make enough chlorine and it might get you through this season. What is your current pump run time and SWG % set at? Basically you want to double the SWG on time by increasing the % and/or add run time. You will need to be on top of testing the water to make sure it is working.
You might be able to run it at 100% to make enough chlorine and it might get you through this season. What is your current pump run time and SWG % set at? Basically you want to double the SWG on time by increasing the % and/or add run time. You will need to be on top of testing the water to make sure it is working.
We normally have our pump on 24/7 during our pool season ( may-sept), and usually our SWG at 40%. However since it has gotten chilly and we haven't been using the pool as much, I have been turning the pump off at night and running the SWG at 60%. My concern is that since the error codes are showing up during the "flow" time, that it's probably not generating chlorine at this time like its suppose to. My understanding is when the SWG is " resting " or doing " reversing" ( self cleaning), that those are the times it's not converting salt to chlorine, right?... So if the codes are showing up during flow times, do u think it's making any chlorine at all? This last week has been chilly and cloudy here, so we haven't used the pool at all ( some days we don't even open the pool cover). I've been checking the FC and CC daily to stay on top of things and have had to add a little bleach to make sure my levels don't get too low. ( approx added 2 gallons over the last 8 days). ( we are keeping our FC around 8.5).
I think we can make it through this season, but we obviously know we need to fix/ replace something here. Just wondering if we're best to go ahead and replace the salt cell/ sensors, cords, etc ( as a whole unit), or try and replace items individually, which may not be that cost effective if we're wrong in the parts we replace first?
I think we can make it through this season, but we obviously know we need to fix/ replace something here. Just wondering if we're best to go ahead and replace the salt cell/ sensors, cords, etc ( as a whole unit), or try and replace items individually, which may not be that cost effective if we're wrong in the parts we replace first?
It does produce chlorine when in reverse mode. What most likely has happened is the coating on the plates has worn out on one side of the cell while the other side still has enough coating on the plates that allow it to work while in reverse mode.
You will need a new cell and I would look for one that comes with the newest style of sensor. Hopefully you get through this season with the cell you have.
You will need a new cell and I would look for one that comes with the newest style of sensor. Hopefully you get through this season with the cell you have.