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Thread: Pool has been up, finally have TF-100

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    Pool has been up, finally have TF-100

    Ok pools been up for a few months now. It is a Pro Series 20 x 48 with a through the wall skimmer, an INTEX 3,000GPH sand filter and their largest saltwater chlorinator (with copper)

    Water has been on and off clear by using the store cheap test kits and "generously" using bleach while running my pump 24/7 and my saltwater system on 10hr cycles. I spent some time with getting my same in my filter to work right which I shared in a few posts with the group. But now all seems to be good to go.

    Now that I have my test kit I'm ready to do this thing. Lol. I'm in central Texas (Killeen, FT Hood area) so I still have quite some swimming time left and I don't plan to take the pool down over the winter.

    Here are my results. I ran them each 3 times and here are my averages:


    PH = >8.2 darker than top of test
    FC = 1.0
    CC =0.5
    TA = 180
    CYA = <20 can still make out black dot at 20 line

    I know my PH is high, my CYA, CC and FC are low. I have read pool school a few times and understand a little but I guess I need someone or multiple someone's to help me know where to start first. I have muratic acid, bleach and I think I'm going to be told to go grab some cyuranic acid too.

    Thanks in advance.





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    Divin Dave's Avatar
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    Re: Pool has been up, finally have TF-100

    Hi, well you're right about someone mentioning getting some CYA. That should be raised to about 40, consideroing where you are, 40 is probably a good number.

    Use Muriatic Acid and bring your pH down, target 7.5. Since 8.2 is as high as pH will read, it may well be higher than that and take a couple of attmepts. But consider it to be 8.2.

    Your CC is good. This should always be .5 or less.

    about your TA, its a bit high, and just like pH, it requires muriatic acid to bring it down. If I were you, I would just keep and eye on the pH, and when it gets to 7,8, add Muriatic to bring it down. After a bit of time, the TA will go down because of that.

    Your FC needs to come up some. It should be kept at a percentage of the CYA. 7.5 minimum and 11.5 on the high side. Here is the cheat sheet so you dont have to break out the calculator.
    Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart

    And the recommended levels cheat sheet
    Pool School - Recommended Levels

    And do you know how to use pool math? Its pretty simple to figure out.
    http://www.troublefreepool.com/calc.html

    Hope this helps,

    Quote Originally Posted by 99taws6 View Post
    PH = >8.2 darker than top of test
    FC = 1.0
    CC =0.5
    TA = 180
    CYA = <20 can still make out black dot at 20 line
    I have muratic acid, bleach and I think I'm going to be told to go grab some cyuranic acid too.

    Thanks in advance.




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    Divin Dave,
    IG Vinyl, 15' x 30', 3 1/2' - 6' deep, Oval, ~15K gal, Intelliclor IC40, Intelliflo VS pump, Clean and Clear 420 Filter, auto-fill-disabled, Retrofit LED Color Light, Dolphin Nautilus Robot, TF100 Test Kit, Taylor K1766 Salt Test Kit, Tftestkit Pressure Gauge.
    www.tftestkits.net Experience- it's what's learned just after you needed it most !!

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    Re: Pool has been up, finally have TF-100

    Quote Originally Posted by Divin Dave View Post
    Hi, well you're right about someone mentioning getting some CYA. That should be raised to about 40, consideroing where you are, 40 is probably a good number.

    Use Muriatic Acid and bring your pH down, target 7.5. Since 8.2 is as high as pH will read, it may well be higher than that and take a couple of attmepts. But consider it to be 8.2.

    Your CC is good. This should always be .5 or less.

    about your TA, its a bit high, and just like pH, it requires muriatic acid to bring it down. If I were you, I would just keep and eye on the pH, and when it gets to 7,8, add Muriatic to bring it down. After a bit of time, the TA will go down because of that.

    Your FC needs to come up some. It should be kept at a percentage of the CYA. 7.5 minimum and 11.5 on the high side. Here is the cheat sheet so you dont have to break out the calculator.
    Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart

    And the recommended levels cheat sheet
    Pool School - Recommended Levels

    And do you know how to use pool math? Its pretty simple to figure out.
    http://www.troublefreepool.com/calc.html

    Hope this helps,
    Thank you for the links to the cheat sheets it makes it a bit easier. You said shoot for a CYA of 40 but shouldn't it be higher according to the cheat sheets? I was thinking it needed to be like 70?

    So I'll grab 4lbs of stabilizer this weekend and get to work on the cya. In the meantime tomorrow I will carefully add some muratic to get the PH to hopefully come down to an acceptable limit. I have 2 gallons so I know I'll have enough of that. Once that is where I need it and the cya is in I think the rest should be smooth.

    Now the FC needs to come up and since I'll be doing so with bleach should I just shut the SWG off until I get everything balanced out or is the only thing I'm really hurting the life of the cell?

    Thanks again



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    Re: Pool has been up, finally have TF-100

    Congrats on the pool! I think Dave missed the SWG, yes you want to bring CYA to 70. I would shut off the SWG and dose manually for a couple days until the CYA dissolves. You will be losing a lot of FC to sunlight at first.

    One thing, disconnect the copper electrodes on your SWG. You won't need any supplemental help with algae since you are following TFPC and even if you did copper is at the bottom of the list of which ones to use.

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    Re: Pool has been up, finally have TF-100

    Ok got my cya hanging and unplugged my copper and shut off my SWG.

    Should I get the PH where it needs to be now or wait on the cya to do some work first?




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    Re: Pool has been up, finally have TF-100

    You could start working on pH, but keep in mind that the CYA addition will also bring the pH down somewhat. You can use PoolMath (down near the bottom is a section showing effects of adding chemicals) to guesstimate what the CYA will do. In other words, be a bit cautious with how much muriatic acid you add, so you don't overshoot your pH goal.
    18' x 48" ring top pool (Summer Escapes); 5500 gallons; set up June - October, stored during winter; Intex 2500 gph pump (B size cartridge filter) Hayward 21" sand filter + 1.5 hp single speed Powerflo Matrix pump (upgrade October 2016) *** K-2006 test kit, refills from tftestkits

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    Re: Pool has been up, finally have TF-100

    Quote Originally Posted by singingpond View Post
    You could start working on pH, but keep in mind that the CYA addition will also bring the pH down somewhat. You can use PoolMath (down near the bottom is a section showing effects of adding chemicals) to guesstimate what the CYA will do. In other words, be a bit cautious with how much muriatic acid you add, so you don't overshoot your pH goal.
    Yes thank you I saw that but seeing where I need to go with my CYA and how high my PH is I think I will be safe to dose based on my pool being 8.2 even though I'm sure it's above. My SWG I believe will raise the ph a little once it runs. I'll add muratic based on 8.2 and test from there. If close I'll wait till the cya is in and stable then adjust as needed I guess.



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    Re: Pool has been up, finally have TF-100

    Before I try to raise my CYA up to my SWG levels should I do a complete SLAM first or should I get my CYA levels right first?

    Added my Muratic and my PH seems to be pretty close to the 7.5 that pool math said it would be. Man I was scared of that stuff lol.



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    Re: Pool has been up, finally have TF-100

    Leave your CYA at around 30 or 40 for the SLAM (so you can SLAM at lower chlorine levels); raise it to your SWG levels after SLAM is done.

    You may want to nudge pH down a bit more before starting SLAM (pH of 7.2 is the usual recommendation).
    18' x 48" ring top pool (Summer Escapes); 5500 gallons; set up June - October, stored during winter; Intex 2500 gph pump (B size cartridge filter) Hayward 21" sand filter + 1.5 hp single speed Powerflo Matrix pump (upgrade October 2016) *** K-2006 test kit, refills from tftestkits

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    Re: Pool has been up, finally have TF-100

    Ok I'll check ph again here shortly and then see where I am to start the slam



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    Re: Pool has been up, finally have TF-100

    You sound like you've got a good handle on it by understanding lower cya first until you pass OCLT then bring it up to 70. Nothing really to add just encouragement to keep it up.
    18' x 38' Pool, 3' to 8' Depth
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    Re: Pool has been up, finally have TF-100

    Ok so I have been doing my best to stay on top of the SLAM and I believe I have done it!!! I have tested as much as I could, added bleach as much as possible and added a little more when I know I wouldn't be able to be on top of it (I go to college full time at night). Here are my tests this morning

    PH - 7.4
    FC - 16
    CC - 0
    CYA - 40

    I haven't tested anything else since I started the SLAM as recommended. If I understand the directions correctly I am done? I haven't added any bleach since about 4:30 PM yesterday.

    So assuming I am done my next step would be to get my CYA up (saltwater pool) and let my chlorine drop. Do a full test and at that point address any other areas like the TA? At which point should I turn my SWG back on? When my FC gets back to desired levels?

    Thanks in advance



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    Re: Pool has been up, finally have TF-100





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    Re: Pool has been up, finally have TF-100

    How does the water look? Can you see a quarter in the deepest part while standing on the ladder?
    Bob - Palm Beach by San Juan Pools. approx 5000 gals., Pentair 320 cartridge filter (all new guts installed by me), Goldline SWG, 'New to me' Kreepy Krauly Sand Shark, Intermec 104 Timer Test kit: TF-100 w/Speed Stir

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    Re: Pool has been up, finally have TF-100

    Yes I could always see a quarter doing that. I never lost the ability to see that. The water has always had the clarity but would get the slimy liner and algae here and there



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    Re: Pool has been up, finally have TF-100

    Oh then your plan sounds good. I would turn the SWG on when the FC drops close to where you plan to keep it.

    I'm a little worried about the pH. Usually it test high when FC is above 10 or so. So you might want to be aware that it could go low as the FC drifts down.

    - - - Updated - - -

    As far as the slimy liner and such, sounds like a circulation issue. You might want to look into a different return eyeball that can get you more movement. Also, a good brushing every few days will work wonders on keeping algae from getting a foothold.

    - - - Updated - - -

    This might be worth printing and posting somewhere handy: http://www.troublefreepool.com/conte...-care-schedule
    Bob - Palm Beach by San Juan Pools. approx 5000 gals., Pentair 320 cartridge filter (all new guts installed by me), Goldline SWG, 'New to me' Kreepy Krauly Sand Shark, Intermec 104 Timer Test kit: TF-100 w/Speed Stir

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    Re: Pool has been up, finally have TF-100

    My PH was high off the charts, I lowered it with muratic to do my slam and keep it within desired levels. The only reason my FC is high is because of my slam.

    The algae is not an issue now nor is the slime. It was before I did the slam. I was having an issue keeping the FC up but I also had no test for CYA and was below 20. Now I am sure with my CYA up and some FC in my pool I shouldn't have an issue



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