DIY Pool Plumbing Plans, Plausible?

Jsch96

0
Jul 6, 2015
28
Oak Creek, Wisconsin
Pool Size
6092
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Hi there all! Its a ways off however my dream pool has become plans on paper. I envision a 16x32 IG vinyl pool ranging from 3.5' to 8'. Also there would be a spill over spa that could be ran when the pool was closed. I'm pretty new to pools however I feel like the plumbing is pretty self explanatory and would like some input on my plans I drew up. Basically one pump would be for both the pool and spa and would filter the water. The secondary pump would run the spa jets. With plenty of ball valves I envision being able to run the spa by itself, the pool by itself, or both. With some sloping of pipes I feel winterizing the pool with spa still in operation would be easy. As for heat loss in the winter I'd create some sort of cover for the spa to retain heat. Pardon the rough sketch, it was just kind of sketched up.IMG_20150821_022147.jpg
 

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Just to be clear, you plan to winterized the pool, but keep the main pump and filter system running year round? You have the heater on the main (pool) loop, in my pool/spa its on the spa loop between the spa pump and jets.
 
Don't use PVC ball valves. They get stiff, stop turning and then the handles break. Plus you can not automate them. Use pool valves like the Jandy Neverlube.

You should use 3-way valves to change between the pool and the spa on both the suction and return side. Then use more 3-ways or 2-ways to add further control (like between the pool floor and skimmer, or between the pool water slide and returns.

You may want a make-up line running to the spa so there is some flow to the spa even when in pool mode to keep the chemistry balanced. (Alternatively, you just do not turn the 3-way valve all the way to the pool.)

I have no idea what the line from after the chlorinator (which we do not recommend BTW) heading to the sewer is for.

Also the heater is not usually plumbed like that. It should be directly after the filter (DEFINITELY do not want any chlorine additions prior to the heater). Then you can still use the filter pump to heat the spa in the winter. Or alternative use the heater on the pool if desired.

I would suggest you make the drawing a little more realistic in terms of the layout before you start plumbing.

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That is interesting chief. I would not think you would necessarily only want the jet water to be heated. No way to maintain the temperature (not that we would need to here) and leave the jets off.
 
Actually I can switch the heated water to the spa jets, spa return, or pool return and supply it from either the pool or spa. That allows me to heat the pool or spa. But the heater is on the spa loop and uses the spa pump for its supply.
 
This was just something I had in my head and obviously if I were to do anything I'd have something a lot more professional drawn up. Basically I would wish to use the spa year round and close the pool in the winter. I wouldnt use the heater to heat the pool directly, id have it directly plumbed into the main spa returns. The chlorinator was something I threw in (though I'll move of somewhere after the heater if it were drawn up) and would be used for CYA addition as well as a backup system for vacations or if I run out of liquid chlorine. I guess I figured a bunch of ball valves would be cheaper than the Jandy valves however they, as you said, would last longer and could make things a bit less confusing. Also the line (again bad placement after the chlorinator I now realize) that runs to the main sewer is just a drain line. I figured if I needed to drain water out of the pool I'd utilize the main drain and pump and use the drain line to run it into the sewer.
 
Depending on the filter you go with, if you have a multi valve, that would integrate a waste option into the backwash line.

You only need 2 suction valves and 2 or 3 return valves.

You might be surprised when you want to swim in the shoulder season and having the heater on in the pool gives you nice little warm areas ;)
 
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