Muriatic acid??

May 31, 2015
86
edison/nj
New pool, new water.. with local testing kit pH is 8.2 and wanted to add muriatic acid as I read in the pool school. but when I went to buy it at Problem with link. Removed by moderator the staff there strictly said no to use IN the pool. They say its for cleaning outside the pool(conceret) ..

So finally got Pool Time 5 lb. pH Down-23320PTM - The Home Depot .. is it ok to use this? this is in powder form.. I can put it in front of a return.. Kindly suggest ..

Thanks
 
The people at HD don't know what they are talking about. Use the muriatic acid. The powder can settle on the bottom of the pool and damage the liner.
 
Muriatic Acid leaves behind chloride salt, but that's essentially innocuous. The problem with dry acid is if you use a lot of it and build up sulfates then these can be damaging to plaster/concrete surfaces and as noted can be detrimental to SWG cells.
 

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When you measure out your Muriatic Acid, you need to deal with it ASAP, you don't want to be mixing it in water, fiddling around with it. Get in the pool as quickly and CAREFULLY as you can.

It's when you try mixing it in water that it reacts and hits you with the yellow cloud. You donwannanunnadat.
 
My two cents on adding acid: DO NOT measure outside the container, especially on a large pool, like yours. If Pool Math says you need 30 oz of muriatic acid, take the lid off the container, lower it into the water with the spout/opening still out of the water and pour in about 1/4 of a jug, maybe a little less. Of course, as recommended in Pool School, in front of a return jet with the pump running. Pour slowly. Make sure the wind is not blowing in your face. Fumes are dangerous and can catch you off guard. 30 minutes or more later, recheck your pH.

Measuring in another container is not necessary with a large pool and only exposes you to more risk with MA. The lower concentration, lower fumes, "green" MA available isn't quite as bad for fumes but use the same caution.
 
Remember Safety 1st ALWAYS- If you premix the liquid acid, or when diluting it in powder form, ALWAYS add the acid to the water, not the water to the acid, because it can splash back on you, and cause burns. Wear goggles or sunglasses to protect your eyes, keep it away from your face and other body parts, and do Not breathe the fumes. Pour into the deep end of the pool if you have one or in front of a jet to quickly disperse it. Avoid getting it on metal, or decking. If it should splash on you or the deck, etc. rinse it off immediately with water.
 
Thanks.. One more question.. I thot its better I confirm it with u guys before I make another mistake... As this is a new pool I am assuming the CYA would be 0 ( my tf-100 arrives to tomorrow) , as per pool math I have to add 122 oz of granulated CyA if I want it to be 40. My question is I have a measuring cup that has marking either in ml , cup or pint. So if I do the calculations in cup it says 4.23 pints or 8.46 cups.. Is that calculation good as I don't want to raise the CYA. Thanks in advance..
 
This is why I hate the Imperial Measuring system... There are fluid ounces and ounces (weight). Pool Math is outputting ounces for you in weight. So you need 122 ounces, which would be 7 pounds, 10 ounces by weight that you need. All solid, granular outputs from Pool Math are by weight.

EDIT: Pool Math does also have by volume listed for granular/solid materials but I would go by weight. Some CYA granules are very fine, some are very coarse. This would affect the density when measuring by volume. Very fine granule CYA would have more weight per volume than very coarse CYA... Maybe I'm just an uptight science geek.
 
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Actually, PoolMath gives both weight and volume in their recommendations. I use my trusty kitchen scale when adding chemicals and I tried the volume recommendation and it was very close to the same amount of granular CYA.
 

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