Anyone have experience replacing cracked Deck O Drain surface cap?
Could not find anyone to replace the top for less than $2,500 for about 60 linear feet. I thought this was outrageous, but now I know why.
The replacement cap is sold in 10 ft lengths for about $25 bucks. The instructions from the company want you to cut the cracked surface grating on an inward angle with a circular saw. Well this does not work as the replacement cap does not simply fit in the space. Long story short, you have to get a miter saw with a masonry blade and cut out the top portion of the existing drain from the cement lined channel. This is very, very difficult, hand and knees work.
But it does not end there. There were sections of the drain where the cement appears to have expanded and narrowed the channel, pushing the walls of the Deck O Drain inward. You have to put in spacers of some sort to get the existing drain flush against the cement lining of the channel. I cut small pieces of 1/2 inch PVC pipe and wedged them in there, glued with PVC cement, in order to keep the plastic of the existing drain against the wall of the cement channel. Also had to put some type of caulking in there to keep the water from going outside of the drain, under the deck.
After I have made a channel wide enough to accommodate the replacement product, I put epoxy on the walls of the channel and placed the replacement cap in there.
This was an absolute bear. Does anyone know of an easier way to do this?
Could not find anyone to replace the top for less than $2,500 for about 60 linear feet. I thought this was outrageous, but now I know why.
The replacement cap is sold in 10 ft lengths for about $25 bucks. The instructions from the company want you to cut the cracked surface grating on an inward angle with a circular saw. Well this does not work as the replacement cap does not simply fit in the space. Long story short, you have to get a miter saw with a masonry blade and cut out the top portion of the existing drain from the cement lined channel. This is very, very difficult, hand and knees work.
But it does not end there. There were sections of the drain where the cement appears to have expanded and narrowed the channel, pushing the walls of the Deck O Drain inward. You have to put in spacers of some sort to get the existing drain flush against the cement lining of the channel. I cut small pieces of 1/2 inch PVC pipe and wedged them in there, glued with PVC cement, in order to keep the plastic of the existing drain against the wall of the cement channel. Also had to put some type of caulking in there to keep the water from going outside of the drain, under the deck.
After I have made a channel wide enough to accommodate the replacement product, I put epoxy on the walls of the channel and placed the replacement cap in there.
This was an absolute bear. Does anyone know of an easier way to do this?