Chlorine demand---in Kentucky---5 times in 4.5 years

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You guys were amazing last year at helping me understand water chemistry and how to take care of my pool. I have numbers from start up this year that I'm curious what you will have to say about. And again, Thanks for all of your help.
ph-7.8
fc-6ppm
cc-.5
ch--625
ta-100
cya--20
I am going to study more and get a better grip on things this year. Thanks, Jim Brink
 
Hey there Jim, welcome back :)

Are you still using the Nature2 mineral cartridges, and trichlor tabs? We do NOT recommend adding metals to the pool and that's whats in that Nature2.

Calcium is high- do you have high calcium in your fill water? Have you been using Cal-Hypo? You can lower this by doing some water replacement assuming your fill water isn't also high? You are at a risk for scaling to develop on your walls because your pH is also on the higher end. Try to lower it to the 7.2-7.4 range while your calcium is high as that will help prevent the scale.

As you lower your pH with Muriatic Acid (MA) it will also bring your TA down some. That's a side benefit as it will help keep your pH swing up limited some.

Add a little CYA to get to at least 30ppm if you're in full sun all day. Refer to this: Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart
 
Water is crystal clear Not using pucks anymore. i am using vision crg-25 cartridges. I had pool company open my pool and they put a new cartridge in. btw, What's the best place to buy them? I am testing my water often so far and levels are looking better and better the cleaner the pool is. thanks for all your help.
YippeeSkippy said:
Hey there Jim, welcome back :)

Are you still using the Nature2 mineral cartridges, and trichlor tabs? We do NOT recommend adding metals to the pool and that's whats in that Nature2.

Calcium is high- do you have high calcium in your fill water? Have you been using Cal-Hypo? You can lower this by doing some water replacement assuming your fill water isn't also high? You are at a risk for scaling to develop on your walls because your pH is also on the higher end. Try to lower it to the 7.2-7.4 range while your calcium is high as that will help prevent the scale.

As you lower your pH with Muriatic Acid (MA) it will also bring your TA down some. That's a side benefit as it will help keep your pH swing up limited some.

Add a little CYA to get to at least 30ppm if you're in full sun all day. Refer to this: Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart
Click to expand...
 
jim brink said:
Water is crystal clear Not using pucks anymore. i am using vision crg-25 cartridges. I had pool company open my pool and they put a new cartridge in. btw, What's the best place to buy them? I am testing my water often so far and levels are looking better and better the cleaner the pool is. thanks for all your help.
Click to expand...

So you're still using minerals (i.e. metals) in your pool water.

Be aware that adding metals can often lead to stains in the pool and green hair on blonds. Most folks find both of these unpleasant and we're constantly being asked how to deal with them.

Forewarned is Forearmed :study:
 
In reality, the best place to by them, is nowhere. You really should not be using any form of solid chlorine. And adding minerals is just asking for trouble. All you need is some CYA and chlorine. And a good test kit.
 
pabeader said:
In reality, the best place to by them, is nowhere. You really should not be using any form of solid chlorine. And adding minerals is just asking for trouble. All you need is some CYA and chlorine. And a good test kit.
Click to expand...
Ok, You have to dumb it down for me. I did not install my pool so I'm just learning about pool water chemistry and how to handle the problems that come with it. (just got hip to you guys last year and thanks for that) Are you recommending that I uninstall the nature 2? because obviously it's hardlined into my pool plumbing. Not using pucks like the pool co. was recommending anymore. all My levels are all great now that I understand the relationship between CYA and chlorine.
 
If you understand the CYA/FC thing then that's more then 1/2 the battle. I'm just concerned with the metals (usually copper) that the Nature 2 system put into the water. I would recommend not refilling it if it's empty. Other parts of the Nature 2 system use solid form chlorine that can cause your CYA to rise and reach levels where it becomes necessary to drain water to correct.

I may have missed it, but what test kit are you using?
 
pabeader said:
If you understand the CYA/FC thing then that's more then 1/2 the battle. I'm just concerned with the metals (usually copper) that the Nature 2 system put into the water. I would recommend not refilling it if it's empty. Other parts of the Nature 2 system use solid form chlorine that can cause your CYA to rise and reach levels where it becomes necessary to drain water to correct.

I may have missed it, but what test kit are you using?
Click to expand...
I have been using the TF-100 test kit since june 2015. This site has changed my perspective completely on pool ownership, water chemistry and basic pool maintenance. sadly has given me a very bad taste in my mouth for the pool company I used to install my pool.

- - - Updated - - -

i don't have any idea how the nature 2 system works so all of this is foreign to me.
 
Hi Jim!

I am new around this site but I read your whole thread and found it very interesting. I hope that what you have learned here changed your mind on filling your $60,000 pool with dirt!

Good luck with everything, the guys and gals here will help you get it all squared away!
-Cody
 

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Jim it will do you good to do a search on the Nature 2 system so you can see it for yourself. Use google and the search box up top so you find out everything. Once you do that let us know and we can tell you want you need to do to not use it any more.

Kim
 
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