Am I missing crucial parts to my Hayward C1750 filter?

Hi,
I bought a used Hayward Star-Clear C-1750 filter last year and have purchased new cartridges but still have particulate coming through the return (although, interestingly, the water is totally clear until ten minutes or so after installing the new or freshly cleaned cartridge).
When I look,at the parts diagram for these filters, I see a part that did not come with my used filter. It is the Guide Cone . I also am missing the washers associated with the guide cone, as well as the "e" clip.
The top half of this filter housing has a cylindrical sleev the seems to fit down into the cartridge as the top is tightened to the base. It doesn't seem like there is even room for this Guide Cone.
I am wondering if pressure builds within the filter after that first ten minutes (of a freshly installed cartridge) enough for some of the water to push past the "sleeve" and head directly out to the return, unfiltered. Does that Guide Cone serve as a gasket of some kind as well?

Thanks,
David
 
Hi PA,
It sure does... I couldn't figure out why Hayward would make it so difficult to separate the upper and lower halves of the filter. Now I know that they didn't... I am missing all of the pieces that make the connection between the locking knob and the top half of the filter.
I now realize (by watching that video) that by it being joined together, the loosening of the locking knob actually separates the halves as it is unscrewed. The lock knob on mine comes off by itself... I then separate the halves by carefully (no contact with the O ring) prying them apart with a flat blade of a shovel (again, to not damage the middle O ring). Not quite right...
I just got off the phone with Hayward tech support. They said that the guide cone is just there as a way to make it easier to reassemble the halves. The seal comes from the mating surfaces of the cylinder at the top and the filter. The tech could not offer an explanation as to why water was bypassing the filter, BUT he did tell me the most important thing that needed to know -- water coming through the filter will not normally have particulate that would be easily seen with the naked eye. When I spoke about the difference between a brand new (or freshly cleaned) cartridge when it is first installed (water so clear from the return that it is difficult to tell if water is actually coming out) compared to 10 minutes later, he agreed that the water MUST BE making it past that cartridges as pressure builds a little.
I am gonna order the parts for the guide cone, washers and e clip, and install all of them when they arrive. In the meantime, I have some sections of tractor inner tube that I am going to cut into gaskets for the top and bottom mating surfaces, along with the space directly below the locking knob. The tech said that it is a long shot, but maybe the tie rod that holds all of this together has stretched over the years. I can take up some of the room and hopefully provide a better seal with my "Hillbilly gaskets"...
I would also welcome any added info, especially about what the water should look like "post filter". This filter is new to me, so I have no perspective yet about what is "normal".


Thanks,
David
 
Hi All,
Well, no change after the "Hillbilly gaskets" were added... I seem to making way more progress by adding clarifier. After reading the horror stories on this forum, I have been adding the stuff in very small amounts at a time (like 4 to 6 ounces). I added about 5 ounces last night, and today was the first time that I could see detail all the way to the bottom, even in the deep end (like counting-the-number-of-square-holes-on-the-bottom-drain-type clarity). Upon entering the pool, stuff was stirred up, but there "clearly" was progress...
 
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