Liner replacement

[bpwags]

I have to replace a liner on a 10 year old 21' Buster Crabbe pre- owned ABG (got the lingo from reading posts). It has a 2nd overlap liner and I think I would like to go back to beaded.

Sounds like foam wall, cove and bottom is the way to go from what I have been reading. Money is an object, although I want to get it right.

Liner guard or foam board?
If foam board, please help me with # of 4x8 sheets

Also, will it be wise to replace the existing aluminum (!) bead receivers? At least I think that is what they are...

Any help is appreciated.

 

[zea3]

Hi, welcome to TFP! I wouldn't bother with wall foam. Its not going to affect the temperature of the water in any perceivable way. I would go with a sand base and liner guard on top, I would skip the 4x8 sheets. If the bead receivers are in good condition, no rust or corrosion, there is no need to replace them.

 

[bpwags]

Hi,
Thanks. I was thinking about the wall foam as the 'seam' where the wall was screwed to gether is showing through the existing liner.

 

[ewkearns]

When they refurbed our Buster Crabbe, they went with foam in the walls and floor and cove in the sharp (inside) corners. Of course, due to the age difference, my BC is concrete and wood! We love the soft feel of the foam....

 

[bpwags]

Thanks. Went to the pool store today and they want over $900 for a new beaded liner. I have seen beaded liners online for almost 1\3rd that. He said 'a beaded liner is not a bearded' and of course I should buy the $900 'correct' liner from him.

So my question is, do I need to spend $900 or can I get a quality liner on line that will work with my pool?

Thanks for any feedback/advice.
Bpwags

 

[Casey]

If you're pool is truely 21' round n 48", 52" or 54" wall height, you can buy any liner you want. Of course he wants you To buy a $900 liner. That will pay his mortgage this month.

 

[phonedave]

Skip the wall foam - save your money. I have it, and I would not do it again. Cover the seam area with a number of layers of good duct tape, tapering it to the edges.

If you have an overlap liner on there, I am not sure how you would have the bead receiver still on the pool. Overlap goes over the top edge of the pool and plastic channels hold it in place. Then metal stabilizer tracks go over that. You can get bead receivers that replace the plastic channels, and the bead then snaps into the bead receiver. You can also get a J hook liner, which is sort of like an overlap, but the top edge is pre-formed, so it hooks over the top of the pool. Some of the J hook liners have a tear strip, where you can tear off the J part, and it then will snap into a normal bead receiver.

$900 is quite high for a liner for your 21' pool.

-dave

 

[layla2052]

We have a J hook liner, no wall foam, used the duct tape as Dave suggested above and a sand bottom and cove. I priced a new liner for our 33' last year and the high end J hooks were about $800 so if you have a 21', your price should be significantly less. The J hook was very easy to install so I will definitely stay with that kind if I had to replace.

 

[zombiejeep]

We are total pool noobs. We just had our pool installed last month. When we ordered everything they had asked us if we wanted a vermiculite bottom. "It's better than sand or foam" they said. I had thought that they were going to mix and spread the stuff. I was wrong. They compacted our area and then spread about 3" of dry, loose, vermiculite down. Then the liner was put in.

Like I said, we are total pool noobs, so after everything was done, I searched and can't find too many places that do this. As far as feel, it is nice and soft, and squishy. I would guess it is more squishy than sand.

The only problem so far is that since it is squishy, our feet leaves divots, and our automatic vacuum can get stuck sometimes.

They taped the heck out of our seam area as well, like mentioned above. We didn't get the foam wall things.