Hayward Swim Pure Problem-lights not on, not generating

[TheGoose]

Hi,

I have the Hayward Swim Pure Plus system. I installed it about 2011 and it has worked great since then. Recently it developed a problem. At first the "check cell" light was coming on. I removed the cell and cleaned it per the instructions. The cell looks mostly OK. After I cleaned the cell it worked for about a month. Last week the unit went totally out.

On start-up, the no flow light flashes normally for about 20 seconds, and then goes out per normal. At first, the "generating" light would come on and stay on for 4-5 seconds. Now nothing at all happens. The display shows 3,000 parts salt. Cycling through the diagnostics screen it shows low voltage and no amps.

I pulled the cover and checked the voltage. It is getting 230V and the fuse is OK (I checked it with an ohm meter).

I then did a search and found these threads:

Aquarite Not generating - lights not on

Since I'm not very good at soldering and don't own a soldering iron I wanted to purchase the whole board for about $175. My only question is whether the board is bad or the cell. I did remove the panel display and clean the contacts and make sure that everything was OK.

Thanks for any suggestions.

 

[TheGoose]

I wanted to confirm something. I checked dispaly-there is no power light even though the reading shows 3000 for salt. Temp is 94. Voltage and current both zero. Instant salt reading is also zero. Version 1.45.

 

[JamesW]

Low or no voltage is almost always a bad thermistor. To test the cell, replace the thermistor or whole board and then compare the instant salt to a good salt test. If the instant salt is more than 800 low, the cell is going bad.

 

[TheGoose]

Update: I replaced the entire board for a cost a little less than $200 and everything seems to be working ok. If I had any soldering skills or tools I might would have attempted to solder in the part that goes bad but I just simply do not have the time for that operation right now. IMO it was $200 well spent and the replacement took less than 30 minutes vs. having to find a soldering iron, soldering supplies, mess with the operation etc.

Thanks to all that helped.

Low or no voltage is almost always a bad thermistor. To test the cell, replace the thermistor or whole board and then compare the instant salt to a good salt test. If the instant salt is more than 800 low, the cell is going bad.

 

[bpajax]

I had the same problem. Did a google search and found the thermistor solution. Ordered it yesterday (Saturday) on Amazon, paid $4 extra on my Prime membership, and received it today, Sunday! (kind of amazing to me). My future son-in-law and I took out the panel and replaced the thermistor in about 45 minutes (he had the soldering gear and knew what he was doing). All is working well now. Sure beat the pool store solution of paying $320 for the panel and $85 labor for the installation - geez! (can you say gouge)