intex cs8110 swg

[scoob]

So tired of not having any electrical schematics for anything these days , this is my first forum post ever and hoping to find some information that google can't.

Can anyone tell me what the dual voltage transformer on the cs8110 swg steps down too. I'm also curious about the bridge rectifier, not really up to speed on bridge rectifiers I do know how to test them but I'm not exactly sure what dc volts are a result of the ac rectification. A good starting point for me at this point would be the transformer if someone could help. It would be much appreciated!

 

[Casey]

Welcome to TFP scoob. I can not help as I have no idea but maybe someone can. Good luck and I hope you enjoy your stay at TFP!

In the mean time, it would help us if you could fill out your signature with your pool specs so we don't have to constantly ask you what kind of pool you have. Thank you!

 

[scoob]

This is what I did for now to get running, I am not by no means suggesting this to others as a fix, but it is what I did. Where there is a will there is a way. And when you don't have money, well things get kind of fun!!! when your complete lunatic. But to some I people I might be :super: man! So it is what it is.

Well, I couldn't stand watchin my pool turning from clear to green and it was doing it fast so, I'm outa money so I just rewired around the board on my cs8110 swg. I hooked the positive of the rectifier up to the + of the copper Cu+ and on the other one the Cl+ but it's actually on the stainless steel plates. 3 wires one wire nut. Then the same with the negatives. Soldering those would probably be smart be I didn't do that, just like hooking up a battery charger up to the electrolytic unit. Also I removed the ribbon display/controler connector from the board this allows the fan to run full time when the controller wants to go into lockout. Fan is important here because of the rectifier making so much heat. Plug it in and it starts making chlorine as soon as you plug it in, it's a must that the pump is running and all filters are always clean, because it runs as soon as you plug it in. The only way to turn it off is to unplug it. System needs to be watched closely now that no safeties are in the circuit. I would like to maybe try and use the flow switch still as a saftey, but looks like I will have to find another relay to use for current draw issues. If I was you I would not do this to your pool for a fix I'm sure it breaks all code and it's completely re wired, but I'm a back country tech hick from Iowa who doesn't care!!! Working great!! Pool looking good. Peace! And to the administrators if you don't think this is acceptable practice for a fix or a safe one then I apologize and don't mind if you remove the thread. :cyclopsani:

 

[scoob]

Oh ya a couple other things, the low salt, high salt, and no flow don't work, no timer, no nothing except chlorine generation. You will have to know how much salt your pool needs and how many amps the unit will draw. Too high of salt could trash out your rectifier or transformer, low salt would be a waste of electricity that your using because you wouldn't be getting much out of the system. Also one other thing to know is that normal the board switches polarity to the electrodes, this is used for cleaning of the electrodes. If you notice scaling on one side of the electrodes then it's time to switch polarity. This is easy, on the stainless steel plates the big flat plug, just unplug turn upside down and reconnect. The other one is just as easy, there is a small locknut ontop of the electrode for the copper plates. Loosen, pull plug and rotate, plug back in and good to go!! Good luck all!

I will check my current draw and update my post!!

 

[Earl Cox]

Just picked the CS-28699 (8110) today at Walmart for $99 on rollback was $179. My 7110 is giving me high salt waiting on the control station from Intex

 

[bl817]

call intex unless your 7110 is out of warranty, they will send you a new control board to fix low salt warning.

 

[jerallen]

Mine is out of warranty and the transformer went out- as I determined by poking around inside.
I also did a temporary "work around" using a spare car battery and battery charger to bypass the controls because I determined that I would have more success finding nuclear launch codes than intex schematics.

Certainly I wouldn't post it here or advocate such- but I will say that 12 volts inserted at just the right spot and right amperage WILL generate chlorine and can be done utilizing existing flow switch to interrupt in the event of pump failure.