Hayward H series - H1001D1 / ABG 1001

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covewi

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Jul 28, 2015
9
geneva, il
This heater - Hayward H series - H1001D1 / ABG 1001 - has worked well until a few days ago. It will ignite and run for about 1-2 minutes and shuts down.
After 5-10 minutes I can start it again but will also shut off again.

I took the thermostat unit apart because it no longer felt like there was any resistance when turning it. The tube from the temperature bulb attaches to a circular piece of metal inside the switch. There appears to be markings on that circular metal piece from coiled wire - which is no longer there.

I think this type of thermostat is a reostat. It is not micro switch.
Does this sound correct for this model heaters thermostat?
If so, then if that internal wire has worn away then of course the thermostat would not work and the unit would shut down

Does this sound correct because I don't what else to check.
How do I check the high limit switches?

Thanks for the help

Covewi
 
Unfortunately I have a lot of experience with this model...too much sometimes. The Achilles heel in these things is the circuit board. It is possible that the rheostat is bad but, I would check the board first. Here is what to check for...

On the board where the white connector is plugged in there are some pins soldered to the board. (see pic)



The solder connections on these pins are notorious for cracking. When the unit is cool they make contact. Once the heater fires up, the board gets warm and expands a bit and breaks contact momentarily. This shuts the unit down and won't allow it to restart until it either cools or the power is cycled.
The good news is this is easily fixed by someone who knows how to solder electronics. It is a bit hard to find the cracks so look with a magnifying lens.

Don't bother with Hayward, they won't acknowledge there is a problem with the design of the board. Replacements, last time I looked, were about 2/3's the price of a new heater.
 
Danpik

I am sort of an electronics geek...had a similar problem with the "eyes" on the garage door opener... basically cold loose solder joints. I will check out your suggestion.
That photo looks like my board. I am still looking through old computer parts for motherboard standoffs to repair that too.

With a rheostat thermostat there should be some sort of coiled wire around the metal wheel that moves up and down - correct? There isn't anything inside my switch like that.

Thanks for the info I am on it.

Covewi
 
Did the re solder job...2 appeared not to be making great contact...didnt make a difference... still shut down after 2 minutes.
At least I checked one more possible cause off the list...thanks for the help.
Thermostat will be here Monday.
Hopefully that is it...I don't hear the clicking of the contacts opening and closing nor do I feel any resistance while turning the knob.
Will post an update.

Covewi
 
Danpik

Jumped the thermostat as suggested... fired right up and ran for 1 1/2 minutes...shut down and after a few seconds started up again and quickly shut down.

Guess the thermostat is secondary problem.
Could a high limit switch cause this problem or anything else that comes to mind or is it a control board issue?
Is there a way to test the control board?

Thanks

Covewi
 
Jumped each of the limit switches...started up and ran for about 2 minutes....shut down...started up again ran around 30 seconds and shut down.

Thanks for all the advice...is there anything I might check before worrying about a new control module or heater...pressure switch?
 

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There are two temp limits, one air pressure and one water pressure switch that can all be jumpered out to test them. The manual that Paul linked to shows them all in the schematic If you have jumped them all one at a time to test them then I would suspect a problem on the board. If you suspect that the board is bad, you could send it to me and I will test it in my heater to verify.
 
Danpik

I took every connection apart, cleaned them, blew out the burner assembly, cleaned the ignitor tip. I then jumped both high limit switches and the water pressure switch.
The heater started up and kept running. One by one I reconnected the high limit switches... still worked.
When I reconnected the water pressure with.... the same symptoms... shut down.
Guess I found the problem.
I put the ohm meter to the water pressure switch...it 0.0 out no matter how far I twist the adjustment knob up or down... looks like its bad.

One question I went from a 2.5 HP pump to a 1.5 HP pump for a 5000 gal pool when the old one quit working a 4 weeks weeks ago....the heater worked after the new pump for 2 weeks before stopping. Would the 1.5 HP pump cause a water flow problem?

The store where I bought the pool/pump said the first pump was an over kill and the 1.5 HP would be enough.

Can the water pressure switch be adjust? Just replace it?
One last thing the heater stays on no matter the position of the thermostat. I even tried the old one. Same thing does not shut off... can this be related
to the water pressure switch?

Suggestions?

Covewi
 
I install plenty of gas heaters on systems with pumps such as yours so it's not a pump issue. I would not try to adjust it but get a new pressure switch. A pressure switch should be used to turn off the heater, not turn it on. If that makes sense.
 
The switch on these is a normally open, pressure close. There is a small bladder under a micro switch. when the pump is running the pressure in the bladder pushes up on the switch and closes it. You can unthread it and make sure the port is clear. It does not take much pressure to close one of these
 
I have the pressure switch plugged in and the heater works now.
Ohm testing shows the switch is always closed... so the heater runs... but it will not shut off via the thermostat...there is no thermostat control...trying both the new and old thermostat.
Sorry if I didn't explain it clearly before.

Looks like the pressure switch is the culprit...will try for one today.

What would make the thermostat have no control of the heater going off and on?

Thanks again
 
I just remembered that one of these heaters in my area (friends house) did have a problem with the thermostat on his. never was able to figure it out. He took it out of the system and installed an on/off switch
 
I may have just got lucky.... I started tapping on all wire connections and the heater started to go off an on when tapping the "low temperature" switch located on top of the combustion
blower housing....cleaned all the connections.

The heater...so far...appears to be working properly...I even have on off control of the heater via the thermostat.
We will see. Did not replace the pressure switch
 

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