I have a Auto Pilot digital nano SWG system installed. Has been working great for the last 3 years. All of a sudden this year the chlorine levels have been 0 every time I go to the pool store.. I put in shock and do some tests and the next time I go it is still 0. Pool is clear, had some algae earlier in the summer, but took care of it. Has not turned green.. we are adding chlorine manually to keep up the levels.
Originally we thought it may have been the cell as the pool builder told me to clean it by pouring straight acid over the plates. We replaced the cell and it seemed to be generating chlorine. I will get a vacuum hose and direct the water jet coming from the pump into a bucket in order to test the water before it gets into the pool. I use a drop test i got from home depot (i don't use strips as they don't work). It showed about 2 - 3 range in color. I tested the pool it was about a .6 on the color chart... which lead me to believe the water coming from the pump was getting additional chlorine, however i tested the following morning after running boost all night and both the water from the pump and the water in the pool was a 0.. clear in color.
I had a service guy come out and take a look.. he asked about the cable for the cell. he said that needs to be replaced when the cell is replaced. So i replaced the cable.. after a week of use... no change. The Chlorine being generated from the pump is the same as in the pool.
The service guy said the volts on the test were low (14v 5a) and should be closer to 20v. He said when the voltage is low or fluctuates it is an indicator the "board" is bad. I checked it again and it says 10v now. I haven't checked it today, but i believe what is happening is when it kicks on it is at 14v and throughout the day it moves. I checked at the end of the day when it was 10v.
I thought there was 1 board in the unit.. apparently there are 3 boards and a transformer. Would anyone be able to chat with me so i can understand which board i need to replace and understand what the voltage readings should be. I can get a multi-meter if i need to and test the boards as well.. i just don't know what the readings should be and what tests i can run.
thanks, any help is appreciated.
Originally we thought it may have been the cell as the pool builder told me to clean it by pouring straight acid over the plates. We replaced the cell and it seemed to be generating chlorine. I will get a vacuum hose and direct the water jet coming from the pump into a bucket in order to test the water before it gets into the pool. I use a drop test i got from home depot (i don't use strips as they don't work). It showed about 2 - 3 range in color. I tested the pool it was about a .6 on the color chart... which lead me to believe the water coming from the pump was getting additional chlorine, however i tested the following morning after running boost all night and both the water from the pump and the water in the pool was a 0.. clear in color.
I had a service guy come out and take a look.. he asked about the cable for the cell. he said that needs to be replaced when the cell is replaced. So i replaced the cable.. after a week of use... no change. The Chlorine being generated from the pump is the same as in the pool.
The service guy said the volts on the test were low (14v 5a) and should be closer to 20v. He said when the voltage is low or fluctuates it is an indicator the "board" is bad. I checked it again and it says 10v now. I haven't checked it today, but i believe what is happening is when it kicks on it is at 14v and throughout the day it moves. I checked at the end of the day when it was 10v.
I thought there was 1 board in the unit.. apparently there are 3 boards and a transformer. Would anyone be able to chat with me so i can understand which board i need to replace and understand what the voltage readings should be. I can get a multi-meter if i need to and test the boards as well.. i just don't know what the readings should be and what tests i can run.
thanks, any help is appreciated.
