Our first pool

[CaptinSpaulding]

We got a deal on a 16' at the beginning of the month. Water has been clear and looking good by adding gallon of liquid chlorine each week and floating 2x3" tabs. The first Pinch-a-Penny I went to (after a week of being setup and adding 1gal of chlorine, no tabs) recommended that I just float 2 tabs and I was good to go.

Yesterday I went to another Pinch-a-Penny across town and was told to add a few things. So I just wanted to get your opinion on his prescription and my water levels. I added roughly 1gallon of liquid chlorine 3 days prior but we have had a HUGE amount of rain for the 2 days leading up to this test.

My test results:

• 0 FC
• 8.0 PH
• 2 Acid Demand
• 200ppm TA
• 200ppm CH
• 0 Stabilizer
• 300ppm TDS

He explained that since I have no acids in the pool that I cannot keep and hold chlorine. His prescription was: 1 Tab, 1/2gal Muratic Acid, 1/2gal Liquid Chlorine, 1gal liquid stabilizer (was like a thick white paint almost, had to shake a lot).

Does this sound accurate for my fairly new pool? Is the stabilizer something that I will have to add a on a regular basis? Seems kind of pricey. I was just worried that he was trying to upsell me. My water looked fine, was crystal clear. But he said it was not sanitary and needed all this stuff (which I purchased and added last night). Thank you for any input!

 

[Richard320]

Welcome!

If you believe pool store tests (we don't here) the acid is a bit much, but it shouldn't have lowered pH to below 7.0, and that will rise back into the good range fairly quickly. The bleach was also about double what you need, but with no CYA, it probably didn't stay up there long and in any case, was below shock level. The liquid stabilizer was also about double what you need. Assuming the pool is only 5000 gallons, your CYA is now about 74, which is manageable, but which means your minimum FC should never drop below 6, which is above what most chlorine tests can measure. If the pool is larger, CYA will be lower.

You can avoid this uncertainty by having your own proper test kit.

To answer the question, the stabilizer is a one-time thing. It will only go down by splashout or with backwashing. Be careful not to use chlorine pucks or powders. The two most common forms of dry chlorine will add CYA, and you're already at the upper end of practical. You're on a well; you don't want to have to drain and refill.

Take the time to read some articles in Pool School. The most useful (besides test kits) are:
Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals what to add to fix what and how to add it
Pool School - PoolMath how much to add
Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry
Pool School - Basic Pool Care Schedule

Seems like a lot of work, but it's not. The daily care is no more difficult or time-consuming than brushing your teeth. Brushing and vacuuming and all probably won't be more than an hour a week. The key is to do your own testing so you know what's going on and you're in control.

And in light of your screen name, I'm guessing you'll appreciate this

 

[CaptinSpaulding]

Welcome!

If you believe pool store tests (we don't here) the acid is a bit much, but it shouldn't have lowered pH to below 7.0, and that will rise back into the good range fairly quickly. The bleach was also about double what you need, but with no CYA, it probably didn't stay up there long and in any case, was below shock level. The liquid stabilizer was also about double what you need. Assuming the pool is only 5000 gallons, your CYA is now about 74, which is manageable, but which means your minimum FC should never drop below 6, which is above what most chlorine tests can measure. If the pool is larger, CYA will be lower.

You can avoid this uncertainty by having your own proper test kit.

To answer the question, the stabilizer is a one-time thing. It will only go down by splashout or with backwashing. Be careful not to use chlorine pucks or powders. The two most common forms of dry chlorine will add CYA, and you're already at the upper end of practical. You're on a well; you don't want to have to drain and refill.

Take the time to read some articles in Pool School. The most useful (besides test kits) are:
Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals what to add to fix what and how to add it
Pool School - PoolMath how much to add
Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry
Pool School - Basic Pool Care Schedule

Seems like a lot of work, but it's not. The daily care is no more difficult or time-consuming than brushing your teeth. Brushing and vacuuming and all probably won't be more than an hour a week. The key is to do your own testing so you know what's going on and you're in control.

And in light of your screen name, I'm guessing you'll appreciate this

Thanks!