Become a TFP Supporter Pool Math Forum Rules Pool School
Results 1 to 3 of 3

Thread: Owned for a year, but just getting smart... Bit confused..

  1. Back To Top    #1

    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    Toronto Canada
    Posts
    3

    Owned for a year, but just getting smart... Bit confused..

    Hi folks,

    For a bit of an intro, we've owned our pool for one year after moving out to rural Ontario. First year was a total disaster. Lost the pool to a green invasion for a month or so in prime swimming season, and struggled to get/keep it clear ever after. Pool shop was no help. At all. I took a sample in and they ran it through what can only be described as an 'extortion machine'.

    The printout was 2 pages, with about 8 different chemicals and processes to follow. $200+ later, I dutifully put that cocktail in the pool over a few days per instructions and struggled after that to maintain any clarity. Discovered the filter required attention as well.. the filter paper was basically a blue colour, and as I now know, 25+ psi across the filter is too high! The pool shop had never seen anything like it. My best guess at this point is that the filters had been clogged with paint. When I brushed the bottom of the pool it would kind of chalk up as a blue cloud of very fine dust suspension. Don't know if that was related to the chemical abuse last year. Anyway, we replaced the filter cartridges, and this year it's been better, much less blue cloud when brushing, though still some blue-toe on bathers (kind of embarassing).

    So this year, I stumbled upon this forum, which I can already see is a huge resource.. so thanks in advance, simply for your existence!

    I've purchased a Taylor K-2006 due to the forum advice, and I've used it twice so far. Most recently I ran it with the following results yesterday evening:

    FC: 1.6 (8 drops @ 0.2ppm/drop)
    CC: 0.2 (1 drop @ 0.2ppm/drop)
    pH: 7.4 to 7.5
    TA: 80 (8 drops = 80 ppm)
    CH: 625! (25 drops @ small volume ratio)
    CYA: 35-40ppm (dot was maybe slightly visible at 40)

    I'm finding algae begins after only a short couple of days of inaction on my part. When that happens I typically have been shocking with a powdered shock (I can post the exact product if it's of interest). I've been vacuuming the algae 'colonies' with the brush vacuum and hosing the filters down manually afterward when the pressure drop gets to around 20-25psi (what a pain!). It doesn't take long to get up there from baseline of about 10psi after cleaning. People here have said they barely ever have to clean the cartridges, so my having to do it once a week feels high. The filters are a hint blue, indicating to me that the pool paint has been chalking off at least a little bit. Water will look great for a couple days, but soon they'll be back covering the concrete in green spots.

    So all of that to ask a couple questions:
    1) what should I do next with the water to best enjoy the rest of the season?
    2) And what should I do for re-surfacing the pool so it's not coming off into the water.

    We're looking at doing the resurfacing job after the end of this season, or potentially before next season (I'm a bit afraid of floating the pool when empty). Putting it off because we're on well-water for topping it off and couldn't support a complete re-fill from the well. Will take ~$900 for a water truck to deliver our 17,000 gal.

    In any case, I've already learned so much, from reading the forum, so many thanks to all of you!

    Cheers,
    Justin

    PS: I'll post a photo of the pool in current state soon for people to gawk at.
    17,000 gal, IG, painted concrete (paint stripping), Hayward 4-cartridge filter, Hayward single speed pump, unknown age > 10 years. Testing with Taylor K-2006. Backfill is from high-hardness well water.

  2. Back To Top    #2
    Mod Squad pooldv's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    DFW, TX
    Posts
    23,998

    Re: Owned for a year, but just getting smart... Bit confused..

    Welcome to TFP!

    Those numbers are pretty good.

    Chlorine is too low, that is why you are always flirting with algae.

    Chlorine level is set based on CYA level and the Chlorine CYA Chart. Assume CYA of 40, always round up to next 10. Keep chlorine at target level at all times. Don't let FC drop to minimum, that is when algae starts and the pool isn't sanitary.

    What is the CH of your fill water? Your CH isn't terrible, we have people here with 800-1000. Get to know Pool School - PoolMath and pay attention to the CSI number. You can tweak PH to keep the CSI in range to head off trouble.

    Since you have some algae now it is a good idea to Pool School - SLAM - Shock Level And Maintain your pool to kill the algae.

    Have you read this, Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry

    Good job so far!

    - - - Updated - - -

    Careful with powdered and pucked chlorine products, aka dichlor and trichlor. They add CYA to your pool. At the bottom of poolmath is a tool called Effects of adding chemicals that tell you what will happen if you add stuff.

    Also, this is a great reference, Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals
    TFP Moderator
    If TFP helped you or saved you money - Become a TFP Supporter! <--Click here
    2012 build and pics, 20k gal gunite, black onyx pebblesheen, OK flagstone, IntellifoVS, cart filter w/Pleatco, IC40 SWG, Solartouch, 5 12'x4' solar panels, HP50HA heat pump, 8mil solar cover, borates, TF-100 test kit, SONOS, Doheny's Discovery Robot, hot tub on bleach

  3. Back To Top    #3

    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    Toronto Canada
    Posts
    3

    Re: Owned for a year, but just getting smart... Bit confused..

    Thanks for the reply!

    I will check the fill water and post it below. I expect it's around 600 as I bet that's all that's been used to top it up for years, and our interior water requires a softener.

    The CSI says 0.06 with goal of -0.22... and I'm seeing that I'd have to lower pH to bring the CSI down... which brings me to SLAMing.

    Reading the SLAM page and the CYA/Chlorine chart seems to say that for CYA 40ppm I should get FC to 16 to shock (Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart)... and the SLAM page suggests starting with a lower pH around 7.3 or so.. so that works well with changing the CSI, though I don't yet understand what the CSI will tell me (more reading to do!).

    So just to make sure I understand.. I need to do the following?:

    1) clear debris
    2) lower pH, per PoolMath to around 7.3 (it's suggesting 14 oz of muriatic acid or Baume or something, is that right?)
    3) From there at pH 7.3, it's suggesting I add 509 oz of 6% bleach.
    4) brush/vacuum/clean filters every day
    5) Continue until CC is 0.5 or lower, I pass an OCLT (ie overnight FC loss test shows a loss of 1.0 ppm or less), and the water is clear

    Does that make sense? I suppose I need to recompute the bleach amount after step 2, but as long as the steps are right I can follow those.

    I'm attaching pictures to show the problems I have with the surface. To me it looks like bare concrete in places, not plaster-covered. I'd like to re-coat the surface with something this fall, but no idea what kind of paint or surface prep I need to ensure it doesn't flake/chalk off again.

    Again, thanks for your help pooldv!

    I am using pucks right now, so I will check to make sure they're not the kind that bump the CYA. Thanks for the tip!

    Pics of the stripping pool surface:

    IMG_20150726_171856.jpg
    Attached Images Attached Images
    17,000 gal, IG, painted concrete (paint stripping), Hayward 4-cartridge filter, Hayward single speed pump, unknown age > 10 years. Testing with Taylor K-2006. Backfill is from high-hardness well water.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •