New pool, problems with solar

pvc 1:2 VRV.jpg
Has any one used this irrigation VRV in their system. It's a 1/2" mpt vacuum relief valve found at landscaping or irrigation supply houses or on Amazon. Cost is less than $4. I tried it in my system and it does work, but in the hot direct sunlight all the time , how long will it last. I put it in when I thought the one that the PB put in failed, but I found out when I took it out that it was only clogged with pvc shaving and other rubbish.
 
Ran the test early this morning. Changed out the VRV to a 1/2 inch plug. Ran the system on manual and blew out all the air at the VS pump high speed #4 apx 3100+ rpm. After it ran for a while and only emitting small champane bubbles turned it on to the #3 speed which was 2350 rpm. ran that for a while and still had the small bubbles coming out, which is good. Hit the reduce button and took the speed down to 2000 rpm's. the bubbles got a little bigger and the pump was consuming about .5kw. I can live with that speed and energy consumption in order to get hot/warm water. Ther water flow is a lot slower coming into the pool. The early morning sun going thru the clear pool with no wind or ripples on the pool surface you can see the water current marks as shadows on the bottom of the pool. We have white plaster.

Now I am going to sit with everything off for the next couple of hours to see if the water drains.
 
Saturday's excitement ...... early in the mornig change out the VRV and put a plug in it. Started up the system in service mode, turned the diverter valves in the correct positions, blew out all the air at high speed. Waited a couple of minutes and then lowered the speed to #3 or 2350rpm. Ram for a couple of minutes and only small tiny bubbles appeared. Slowed the punp more and got the speed down to 2000 rpm and little bigger bubbles appeared. I could live with that. Turned off the system and let sit for a few hours to see if the water would drain out of the system. After 2 hours the water did not drain out of the riser pipes on the side of the house going up to the panels. The system was on auto and started up at 11am and was set for regular filter at 1800 rpm.

At 3pm I wanted to heat the spa like I did the prior day. Switched to service mode and used high speed to push out all the air bubbles, had a problem and blew out the lower end cap on the 2" header that I capped off the vrv. The water drained into the rain gutter and to our underground drainage system. Did not figure it out for about 5 minutes. Fixed the leak and noticed that I had lost 6" of water in my spa. Got it back on line by 4 and at 5 I was sitting in our warm spa. Needed to tighten the clamps tighter.

I am thinking about adding a 1/2 pvc pipe and run it from the upper 1/2 mpt female connector hole, where the original VRV was placed, and run it next to the riser pipes and put a hose bib so I can use it for a pressure relief valve or air vent when I need it. It appears that the vacuum relief valves does bleed air at the pumps slower speeds.

I have a new issue with the chlorinator that I will start a new tread. Thanks for reading and all your imput. Most of all thanks for letting me vent about my problems and issues with this new pool.
 
Sounds like some good progress. The small amount of small air bubbles could be coming from your SWG. Mine blows bubbles most of the time when it is on. In a couple of weeks you should go retighten the hose clamps one more time, they move around a little initially with expansion and contraction.
 
I am ready to install my 2" cut off valves in my solar risers. I plan to install a 2" PVC 1/4 turn ball valve and above that a 2" t with a 1/2"mpt tread above that. I plan to put a 1/2 in treaded couple and then a 1/2 quarter turn ball valve. I plan to pressure test the solar system to see where the leaks are and after my curiosity is satisfied these additional parts will be used to drain and close off the solar in case we get a freeze alert here in Discovery bay, Ca. I can attach hose fittings to the 1/2" valves and a pressure guage to the other end and add pressure to the system. Do I still nee to put a VRV someplace in the system?
 
It is better for the solar panels to drain down every time they are not in use. A 3way solar valve has a small hole to allow the panels to drain. Those ball valves do not last very long and the handles always break off. Consider using Jandy or Pentair valves, they work much better and last a lot longer. There are pics of my solar plumbing in my build thread in sig.
 
I put hole in one of my jandy valve that diverts the water to the solar. The panels do drain down and it tales a long time. Currently I have no VRV on any part of my solar plumbing. The check valve on the return line is 2' above the ground and the water drains out to that level. My system does drain after each use as it currently configured.

I am looking for the air leaks so I can run the VR pump slower when using the solar panels. I want to heat the spa using the panels. This is just to get the spa about 100+ and not use it as a real spa. The heater and blower is there if we want the real spa function. I am trying to get my electricity usage down for the operation of this pool.

Am I better off not adding the extra parts and just leave it alone. "If it not broke, don't try to fix it or improve it".
 

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Putting the VRV on the lower opposite end of the input should help with priming an running at lower rpm. It will drain down better and faster with a VRV. I would try that first. If it is working as is then I would not add the extra stuff.
 
I was bored the other afternoon and decided to monkey with my solar installation. I bought all the pieces so I could test for leaks, so why not install it. I cut the 2" riser pipes, assembled the 2" quarter turn valve, 6" lenght of 2"pvc pipe then a 2" tee with a treaded 1/2 mpt. Placed one assembly into each riser. Wanted them at the same height, but lucky the ended up a 1/2" different. The valves needed the difference in height in order to make the quarter turn to cut off the water flow. In each of the 1/2 mpt put a couple and then a 1/4 turn valve. On the fill side, water going to the panel placed a female hose adepter and on the return side put in a pressure guage. Connected a garden hose and filled the system up. During this process let the water run into the pool until all or most of the air bubbles are out of the system. Turn off cut off valve to the return and got the pressure to hold at 24 pounds. Tried to get more pressure and the bottom end cap that I put on got blown off. I sounded like a shotgun going off, must have still had some air in the system. The pvc end cap did not have a ridge at the end so the clams could hold onto it with that kind of pressure. Put some screws in near the edges and tried it again. This time I stopped at 24 pounds, Two has marks past the 20 mark. It held that pressure for the next few hours. All this work was done between 7am to 8am. From the first blow out some of the connectors showed leaks, tightened those up, using two hands on the screwdriver. Forgot about this and went to do some othe work. Around lunch time I hear a smaller blast. went up to the roof and the end cap connector blew up. This is a rubber connector that you buy at the hardware store. This one has been up in the direct sunlight for about a month and has had its clamps screwed very tight. One of the clamps cut into the rubber by the ridge of a panel header and weakend a spot so the expansion of the water and air in the system mad anothe blow out for me. Went to the hardware store and got anothe connector, this one with an aluminum shield around it, also I tighten enough to hold from leaking. Pressurized the system again and it held. On the real test opened up the 2" pvc valves and see if I gained anything in my solar operation.
I turned the three way to send water up into the solar and hit the function buttom to the cleaner mode, this way the higher pump setting would blow out the air. After a couple of minutes and when a the big bubbles stopped coming out I switched functions and hit the filter function and turned off the cleaning function. Gave it a few minutes and then reached down into the pool to feel the return lines and the water was warm coming back into my pool. Tis was about 3pm and it ran that way for the next few hours. At 5pm felt the pool water and I could not tell if the pool wat was any warmer, but I knew that warm water was going back into my pool. My filter is set to run 12-5 and at a slower speed, 1700 rpm.
As a result I now can make chlorine and hot water at a slower pump speed and use less watts in the process. I also have a method to find any leaks in the solar system and a positive way to drain the solar when and if a freeze comes this winter. When the solar is not in use I put in a drain hole on thr three way valve so the water can drain back to the pool and take the pressure off the VRV.
My next thing to find out is if I can cet the Easy touch system to control the solar and get all the air out.
Advise from the Forum is right you do not need all this extra stuff. The system works the way it was put in, but needed a little fine tuning. The VRV was better placed in the lower panel corner. The clamps needed to be tightened. If your panels are lower to the ground you would not need higher pump speeds.

As of this week we do not need the heat from the solar for the pool, but come this fall and early winter it will come in handy.
 
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