Pool light taking on water, use pool lube?

Jump to latest Follow Reply
Ok, didn't work but it seemed to fit properly now as the gasket mated into the groove of the metal housing. I would now suspect that they bought the wrong gasket before they installed it improperly. We replaced by matching the same one. I see the part online for ~30 when Leslie's gasket was $10.

When I put it on the glass it is not very snug and if I push in the sides it bulges on the top and bottom. Perhaps too big.
 
My 500W light started leaking after about 6 years. I bought a new lamp and gasket. Assembled it - no lube, no sealer. . It leaked. Took it apart, reassembled it. It leaked. I took it apart and used a whole lot of clear RTV on it - everywhere there could possibly be water leaking into it. Let it dry overnight. Put it back together - turned it on... no bubbles.....fingers crossed........no bubbles.... left the light on for a couple hours..... no bubbles... OK, feeling good:p, time for a cold beer!:cool: Next morning.... no water... turned it on.... no bubbles! I fixed it! Good ol' silicon.... it's nasty stuff to clean up, but it does work.

Randy
 
The best lens gasket to use will be from the manufacturer (pentair) it is usually vanilla in color, and will fit snugly around lens, for a do it yourself repair attempt you cant go wrong with starting fresh with a new gasket. The sealing problem usually has nothing to do with the light can, or the various parts that keep it sealed, but everything to do with improper reassembly, so...#1) THE RUBBER GASKET IS FOR THE GLASS LENS ONLY...#2) THERE HAS TO BE "SIX" SMALL BRACKETS THAT HANG LOOSELY FROM THE FACE RING, EACH OF THEM ARE USED TO SUPPORT THE WIRE CLAMP AND "SIX" ARE NEEDED FOR THE PROPER TENSION TO SEAL THE LENS PROPERLY, IF ONLY "FIVE" ARE THERE THE CLAMP WILL MAX OUT AND USE ALL OF ITS RANGE OF TIGHTENING ABILITY, AND IF THERE ARE "SIX" AND THE WIRE CLAMP FALLS OFF ONE OF THE "SIX" AS YOU TIGHTEN IT, THIS WILL ALSO MAX OUT THE TENSION RANGE OF THE CLAMP, MAKE SURE YOU INSPECT BEHIND THE FACE RING TO VERIFY THE WIRE CLAMP HAS MADE CONTACT WITH ALL "SIX" IT IS VERY EASY TO BEGIN TO TIGHTEN CLAMP AND NOT REALIZE ONE OF THE BRACKETS HAS SLIPPED OFF, ALWAYS VERIFY THE WIRE CLAMP CRADLES ALL "SIX" #3) DO NOT LUBRICATE GASKET, OR USE SILICONE OF ANY KIND, THESE LIGHTS ARE DRY SEALED, AND THE REASON BEHIND THE DECISION TO RESORT TO USING LUBRICATION CAN BE TRACED TO #1 OR #2 ABOVE This info is specific to the full size pentair amerilite style pool light, in its original factory condition, unmolested by hammers, vise grip,s, etc.
 
Just to close this up for now, the new gasket was tighter probably due to not having been taken off and on over and over again.

It is still leaking but I think I have a clear reason why. When mated and tightened down, I can see that it is not flush on one edge. I think the light was bent in the past. Prior to liner replacement I will attempt to straighten it out to make a flush contact all the way around.

Btw, I just mean the lip is bent, the light still is round.
 
Hi pool&spatech,

Thank you for your detailed explanation.

In my case, I'm an above average DIYer, so I am 100% confident I installed the gasket and clamp ring properly... it's not rocket science. I did research before starting the fix, and knew that sealer was not recommended. However, having been around for 68 years, I also know that replacement parts that are manufactured today can be junk and may not be the same quality or specs that came with the OEM part. I don't see how the use of RTV silicone to seal up the canister will cause any problems? Of course if and when it leaks or the light burns out again, I'll be spending some time cleaning up that silicone!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply