Testing new pool

Jump to latest Follow Reply
P

poolee

0
Jul 27, 2014
4
ny/ny
I just received my Taylor 2006 from tfteskits.net

I have an intex 18x9x52 ultra pool with 4500/gallons

I have the intex salt water generator (CG-28669) and the Intex sand filter.

I bought the kit because I felt that the store that tested my water for free was trying to push chemicals for me to buy. Maybe I am paranoid, but they don't seem trustworthy. I remember when I told the guy that I had a salt water generator how he dismissed it as being useless. After that time I just don't trust them.

I would rather not add CYA if I don't have too. I don't care if the SWG works a couple of more hours a day. I would like to use as little chemicals as possible. Can I avoid using CYA. If I have too I will as I have the CYA is pellet form and as a liquid stabilized, I just rather not. Another thing, when they tested my water they informed me that I had 0 CYA, now that is not possible as I put a 1 lb of the pellets in the water. I read that CYA never goes away and they only way to dilute is to remove water. That is another reason why I don't have too much faith in the store's testing results.

What tests do I need to perform, at what frequency and what are the acceptable ranges for each test?

I saw a video on-line on how to perform the chlorine test using the taylor 2006, however, it does not state the acceptable range. Same for PH.

Thanks for your help
 
The acceptable FC range is dependent upon CYA. On my phone so dont have link handy...Google cya chlorine chart. You don't have to add CYA but you'll be using lots more bleach to maintain your FC levels and you'll get broader swings in FC levels subjecting your pool to an algae bloom. Even with an SWG it likely wont be able to overcome FC losses due to the sun. CYA is an FC buffer...it protects the FC from rapid sun loss. Read your SWG manual as I'll bet it recommends a CYA level of 50 to 80.

Edit: for grins I checked the intex manual...recommends cya level of 20 to 40. A little low for typical SWG setup but point is the manual has charts and info regarding CYA.
 
Hi poolee
I just want to say howdy and make a couple of comments.

you are right not to trust the pool store. They are biased towards selling you stuff you dont need, and the stuff they tell you to put in and how much, will not keep your pool clean. There are 1000s of people who hunt down TFP because they got pool stored and are desperate to find something that works. TFP works.

As for testing, you need to test as follows.
FC - Daily
CC - Daily until you get everything 'dialed in'
pH - Daily
TA - Once a month
CH - there is no chemical reaction between Calcium and Vinyl Liners, so its really not a necessary test. Just dont get it way high, like over 500..... I test mine every 3 months or so... just out of curiosity more than anything.

If you dont use any CYA, you are going to need to run your pump just about from daylight until dark. Without the protection CYA provides from UV from the sun, the chlorine will burn out of the pool in 20 to 30 minutes. So only after dark will there be any resting time for your SWG.

pooldv has provided some important links for you. The only other thing I can offer is a link to pool math. A very handy tool in detemining how much of something to add in order to reach your recommended level.
http://www.troublefreepool.com/calc.html
 
First off all I want to thank everyone for their help!

The brochure that came with the Taylor 2006 is lacking as it does not provide step-by-step instructions.

By the way, I keep the pool covered unless the kids are swimming, which is can be a few hours a day to a couple of days with zero hours. It all depends on the weather and their mood.

I'll add CYA after I test for it. There should be enough CYA as I added a 1lb of pellets as recommended, but the guy in the store told me that I have 0. However, I am still confused. I see the chart and there are 3 columns min FC, target FC and Shock FC. What is the shock FC column for. Also am I correct in assuming that the numbers are ppm?

PS,
What tests must I perform to keep the water healthy and clean?
 
Shock FC is the level needed to kill algae if you get it. Lets hope that doesnt happen.

Minimum FC is the minimum level of FC needed to keep algae away. Never let FC drop below this level, but remember, the FC level is based upon how much CYA is in the pool. So when you use pool math, you need to enter the correct CYA level when calculating for FC.

Target FC is the upper limit of FC you want to keep your chlorine regularly. More than that, and the chlorine is for practical purposes, wasted.

And yes, all numbers are in ppm.

I take it the 1 lb of CYA the pool store guy told you to add was granular? If so, then 1 lb in 4500 gallons of water will raise CYA by 27ppm and lower the pH by .49ppm. As mentioned previously, pool store testing is notoriously erroneous. Especially when it comes to CYA. Of all the chemical testing of a pool, CYA is actually the one that is the most tehcnically scientific of them all.

CYA is very slow to show up on a CYA test, it is not unusual for it to ready 0 or lower than expected for 5-7 days after adding it.
 
FC keeps your pool sanitary and clean.

We test for CC, because a level of more than .5 ppm might be indicative of an algae problem beginning to happen. If CC is more than .5 its time to investigate further and head it off at the pass.

pH is important so that your equipment doesnt corrode. Low pH is very acidic which is corrosive and high pH can cause eyes to sting and your skin feel wierd.

TA is a measure of bicarbonate in the water and helps control the rate of change in the pH.
If its high, your pH will drift upward quickly, if its too low, the pH will be very unstable. for a SWG pool, you'll want to keep the TA around 50ish or 60 ish. You will have the right level, when your pH gets to a point where you dont have to adjust it more than once a week or so.
poolee said:
PS,
What tests must I perform to keep the water healthy and clean?
Click to expand...
 
Hey everyone just tested my pool and here are the results
8 FC = 40 drops x 0.2 (25ml sample)
PH 7.0
Alkalinity 10 ppm = 3 drops to clear x 10

CYA shows 0 even though I added 1 lb of conditioner pellets directly to the pool 2 weeks ago

What should I do to get my chemicals right
 
poolee said:
Hey everyone just tested my pool and here are the results
8 FC = 40 drops x 0.2 (25ml sample)
PH 7.0
Alkalinity 10 ppm = 3 drops to clear x 10

CYA shows 0 even though I added 1 lb of conditioner pellets directly to the pool 2 weeks ago

What should I do to get my chemicals right
Click to expand...
1 lb CYA in 4545 gallons is only 26 CYA. If your view tube starts at 30, you'll be able to see the dot the whole way. Did the water get cloudy at all when you mixed chemicals?

TA test shouldn't go clear - it should change from green> pink or blue>yellow. Try the test again. If it goes clear, stop and add another couple drops of R-008 and then resume testing using the R-009. Your unbuffered FC is so high it may have caused the colors to bleach out.

When you are certain of your TA reading, then target your pH to 7.6 and raise it using Borax or Washing Soda. Either is fine; if you have some leftover pH Up, it's washing soda in a fancy package. If you use Borax, you'll probably need to add Baking Soda too. Post results and what you plan to use and let someone check things.

If your CYA really is below the marks, you should raise it. Another pound of granules will get you to 50ish. Then you can turn down that SWG. The FC is too high and will bleach out swimsuits and so on.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
You must log in or register to reply here.
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply